Chainstay frame crack on a steel Woodrup frame: advice please

[T4tomo]

It's a bit head scratching time.

its isnt....

A repair is a new stay - if too much £, bin it. Weld it, erm no.

agree with this, too much metal missing to feel confident in a repair, unless its a sleeve which would look a bit duff & ugly and potentially cause chainstay clearance issues anyway. So new stay and respray, which doesn't sound economically viable. So unless its a labour of love, I'd strip the parts and move on

To avoid the respray and keep original paint, you could just chrome / silver spray / paint the chainstays once replaced

 

[Fastpedaller]

A new chainstay would appear to be the best fix. Focussing on cost, why get a respray? Lots of time required I'm sure, but a brush painted finish can be made as good (some would say better) than a spray one. Do NOT use cellulose paints, use enamels. Think the primer until it flows like milk, therefore no brush marks! You can't get brush marks with water! So something approaching milk gets just enough paint 'body' on without leaving brush marks. Same with undercoat. Then follow with Humbrol or other enamel (eg rustoleum). It's even possible to thin the enamel . Multiple coats will give a good coverage, and if thinning the enamel it will lose its gloss, so a final coat of clear varnish (art shop) will work wonders. I'm doing my old kit car with this method (though using large tins, not Humbrol It's coming out great and saving a small fortune.

 

[Illaveago]

A new chainstay would appear to be the best fix. Focussing on cost, why get a respray? Lots of time required I'm sure, but a brush painted finish can be made as good (some would say better) than a spray one. Do NOT use cellulose paints, use enamels. Think the primer until it flows like milk, therefore no brush marks! You can't get brush marks with water! So something approaching milk gets just enough paint 'body' on without leaving brush marks. Same with undercoat. Then follow with Humbrol or other enamel (eg rustoleum). It's even possible to thin the enamel . Multiple coats will give a good coverage, and if thinning the enamel it will lose its gloss, so a final coat of clear varnish (art shop) will work wonders. I'm doing my old kit car with this method (though using large tins, not Humbrol It's coming out great and saving a small fortune.

I used to be a sprayer so that isn't a problem. I know of a couple of local motor factors so sourcing paint shouldn't be a problem.

 

[DCLane]

This all looks positive @Illaveago - and well beyond what I would have been capable of.

As you're posted elsewhere it's Reynolds Professional tubing, which I'd hoped no-one else had noticed when listed. I'm pleased that it looks to be restored and staying in the CC family.

 

[Illaveago]

This all looks positive @Illaveago - and well beyond what I would have been capable of.

As you're posted elsewhere it's Reynolds Professional tubing, which I'd hoped no-one else had noticed when listed. I'm pleased that it looks to be restored and staying in the CC family.

I've sent an email to Woodrup to see if it's possible to replace the stay.

 

[si_c]

I've sent an email to Woodrup to see if it's possible to replace the stay.

If you don't mind, when you've got a response from them, could you drop me a PM with how much they reckon.

I've got the same problem with my Peugeot frame as that developed a crack not far from the mudguard mount weld point, which then went through the frame.

I've kept the frame with the explicit intent to repair (much to Mrs C's despair), I did look a few years ago, and the cost then was around £300 including a full repaint (as well as fixing the seatpost binder). But I can't remember where or from whom I got the pricelist.

 

[Illaveago]

I've had a reply and have sent them some pictures.
The bike was built in 1980.

 

[biggs682]

If you don't mind, when you've got a response from them, could you drop me a PM with how much they reckon.

I've got the same problem with my Peugeot frame as that developed a crack not far from the mudguard mount weld point, which then went through the frame.

I've kept the frame with the explicit intent to repair (much to Mrs C's despair), I did look a few years ago, and the cost then was around £300 including a full repaint (as well as fixing the seatpost binder). But I can't remember where or from whom I got the pricelist.

Try Lee Cooper NR Coventry

 

[T4tomo]

Try Lee Cooper NR Coventry

Doesn't he specialise in denim?

 

[biggs682]

Doesn't he specialise in denim?

The old ones are best

 

[fossyant]

its isnt....




To avoid the respray and keep original paint, you could just chrome / silver spray / paint the chainstays once replaced

You scruff !

Chroming isn't cheap (if done properly - i.e. dipped) and will need a repaint anyway

 

[si_c]

Try Lee Cooper NR Coventry

Taken a look at them, but it's the other end of the country, where Woodrup and Ellis Briggs are both in Leeds, which is much closer. That being said if shipping the frame it's not much odds.

 

[Fastpedaller]

You scruff !

Chroming isn't cheap (if done properly - i.e. dipped) and will need a repaint anyway

Also chroming is more likely to cause long-term issues than painting.

 

[Jameshow]

Taken a look at them, but it's the other end of the country, where Woodrup and Ellis Briggs are both in Leeds, which is much closer. That being said if shipping the frame it's not much odds.

Ells Briggs are Shipley tbh.

 

[fossyant]

Also chroming is more likely to cause long-term issues than painting.

Not advised on an old bike either. My best bike is about 34 years old and has chrome forks and rear triangle - the builder wouldn't do it with Columbus TSX as it was too thin (and there aren't many TSX frames left TBH), but SLX was fine. Mine is still amazing.