It just looked a bit 'posh' for an inner ring as they are usually quite plain with just some stamping of the part number evident but you are correct in saying there are no ramps. The Cassette, Jockey Wheels, Outer Chainring and chain were all renewed together (and worked fine) and the Inner ring was changed about 2wks later. In hindsight it was probably unnecessary but while I had the cash to renew the complete drive chain together it just seemed to make sense. I did have a bit of chain skipping because one of the jockey wheels was fitted the wrong way but I soon spotted and corrected that issue but this one has me flummoxed. I am going to put the original inner ring back on for now but would still rather have had everything new. Also, unless I know what the issue is now it will just catch me out whenever I change it in the future.
Chainring Problem
- Thread starter JPBoothy
- Start date
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fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
The only other thing is the spacing might be out, ie slightly nearer the large ring causing the chain to catch on the upshift ramps or pins
Big John
Guru
We all love a good mystery, eh, and this is causing a few scratched heads. If it's a new Shimano chain then I guess you had to cut it to the length of your old chain. Did you do one clean cut and then use a split link or did you split the chain and use a Shimano link rivet? I'm just wondering if there might be a chain issue even though we all know it's relatively new. Or the obvious.....is the chain ring on properly, facing the right way. I've replaced chain rings and things just work so something obvious must be screwed up somewhere.
I think I will go for the cowards way out by refitting the old one and selling on the new one as there is definitely 'something' about the feel of the old versus new that bothers me. It is a lot lighter in weight and I think the spacing could be a good shout as I have just noticed when zooming in on the photo that there is a very slight recess on the flat contact areas of where the new item would meet the spider.
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Yes I agree that would make sense but neither face of the original chainring shows any sign of a recess. I am now starting to sound like the child who asks too many questions but here goes! Is there a particular position for the small cut-out and tab to be in when bolted up? Although the new ring only has the cut out and no tab.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Cut outs and the like are usually aligned with the crank.
Broadside
Guru
- Location
- Fleet, Hants
I was just about to mention the cut out, I would line that up with the crank. From the wear on the ring so far it looks like almost 90 degrees from the cut out has been aligned with the crank.
If you get the cut out wrongly placed on the crank you might find the old chainring plays up as well. It is odd though because I have ridden with some very badly worn chain rings and never had one slip. What makes you think the slip is on the chain ring rather than the cassette?
The mention of Spacing yesterday got me thinking, and upon closer inspection this morning it would appear that I have purchased a N11 (11 spd) Outer Ring in error and when paired with the N10 (10 spd) Inner Ring, I suppose there is a chance that the spacing could be a bit tight and is preventing the chain from dropping onto, or lifting off from the chainring teeth properly. Strange how it didn't happen with the original OEM Inner ring though 🤔
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