Chain worn already?

[gbb]

What's wrong with Shimano 105 chains? I just bought a spare one. Just wondering!

When i fitted mine (no experience of 105 myself), it was mentioned by a couple of contributors that they thought the 105 chain wore quickly, soft, i think was a word used to describe it. Hey ho, i always buy well in front and get a bargain off ebay, so we'll see how it goes.

I've used KMC chains for several years now, even on my fixed and they last around 3000km for me. The least I've gotten out of a 10sp one is around 5000km. My current one is still good (according to measurements) and has done 7600km (link to thread)

I do wonder what people do to their chains (or what I do!) because it stuns me to here stories of such limited mileage.

Perhaps I ride easier on chains than some? I mean, not changing gear under load by anticipating changes. I'd probably be regarded as a spinner too (though I average around 80 - 85, so not a mega spinner). Maybe I don't overly stress chains. One of my clubmates did say he thought I was a 'light' rider ("léger" is what he actually said, so perhaps my translation is too literal), I'm not quite sure what he meant.

Its becoming apparent that riding style MUST have an impact on chain life. I am a honker, my routine on my longer rides (where i'm trying to up my average speed) is to get out the saddle on inclines/hills, go hell for leather (as much as i can in my own way) and recover at the top by riding more easily. This tends to up my average speed. It must also put a lot of stress though the transmission.

 

[Moodyman]

When i fitted mine (no experience of 105 myself), it was mentioned by a couple of contributors that they thought the 105 chain wore quickly, soft, i think was a word used to describe it. Hey ho, i always buy well in front and get a bargain off ebay, so we'll see how it goes.



Its becoming apparent that riding style MUST have an impact on chain life. I am a honker, my routine on my longer rides (where i'm trying to up my average speed) is to get out the saddle on inclines/hills, go hell for leather (as much as i can in my own way) and recover at the top by riding more easily. This tends to up my average speed. It must also put a lot of stress though the transmission.

Agree. I'm big and heavy. Most of my cycling is commuting with panniers and all the other paraphernalia. 800 feet of climbing one way and 600 the other.

I'm a spinner, but on short climbs I'll not change down, but lean forward and power through.

I got 1600 miles from last chain and 1300 from the one before.

 

[KingstonBiker]

So after a visit and discussion at my LBS they advised me not to spend any money at this point.

They pointed out that as all the gear changes are still smooth and I have no issue with the drive system to continue to use it as is.

At my 100 miles per week I'll probably get another couple of months out of it and at that point change the chain and cassette.

I'm happy to give this a go for now as a bit of an experiment. Of course if I do have any gear issues plans may change.

 

[the_mikey]

I've just swapped a chain over at 800km (mostly because I didn't have time to clean and lube it properly) but no sign of wear yet.

 

[HLaB]

Everybody probably know the theory that if you replace a chain at 0.75% you may not need to change the cassette wait a while and you are guaranteed to have to change both. Its suggested that its cheaper changing at 0.75 % and chain only but IME there's not much in it; typically my chains are 0.75% worn at 1500 ish miles but the last 105 chain I had I let go to 5500miles; fag packet maths, thats 3.666....... chains (say I got 3 chains to 1 cassette, that be 3x20 + 45 ish = £105 ish based on my last 105 drive chain); I replaced at both at 5500 miles (20+45= £65 ish). I can't see how the former is cheaper for me unless I got more chains to cassette, which I don't.

 

[400bhp]

I'm not convinced too HLaB, unless your cassette is a lot more expensive than your chain.

At the moment I'm replacing chains when they are getting beyond the 0.75% mark, but I'm managing to find the chains pretty cheap on Fleabay (average price about £12). I might revert back and not bother replacing until chain and cassette both wear out.

I've read somewhere that the drivetrain becomes more inefficient with greater wear though?

 

[potsy]

Doesn't running a worn chain wear your chainrings out early too though?
Add in the cost of replaing those and it might make it a bit clearer.

I haven't got a chain checker so just change at approx 2000 miles.

 

[cloggsy]

One of my clubmates did say he thought I was a 'light' rider

 

[KingstonBiker]

Doesn't running a worn chain wear your chainrings out early too though?
Add in the cost of replaing those and it might make it a bit clearer.

I've heard before and my LBS said the same today that the chainrings really don't wear much at all.