Chain Sizing?

[nmfeb70]

Hi all, I've cut this chain too short and wonder if anyone can advise me on how many links I should put back in? I want to get it right as I only have a couple of pins left and they aren't cheap! Thanks.

 

[neil_merseyside]

Hi all, I've cut this chain too short and wonder if anyone can advise me on how many links I should put back in? I want to get it right as I only have a couple of pins left and they aren't cheap! Thanks.

Just count the links on the old chain if that was right. Chain needs to be able to survive, but never be used intentionally in big:big, once routed through rear mech (it'll be near straight) then just long enough to make a join, or when fitting new chain it's often easiest by missing the rear mech out but add a link (a pair). Get some quick links.

 

[Juan Kog]

My advice buy another chain , reconstructive dentistry is very expensive. Second buy KMC , SRAM ,Wipperman- Connex , any quality chain except Shimano . Sorry, but you did ask .

 

[Jody]

Big big at full tension and then add 2 links

 

[nmfeb70]

Just count the links on the old chain if that was right. Chain needs to be able to survive, but never be used intentionally in big:big, once routed through rear mech (it'll be near straight) then just long enough to make a join, or when fitting new chain it's often easiest by missing the rear mech out but add a link (a pair). Get some quick links.

I measured the chain to the old one but it was jumping all over the place. Another chain as suggested by @Juan Kog might be the best option.

 

[raggydoll]

How many links you think you'd need to add?

If it was me I think I'd buy a new chain. Probably end up just as cheap as buying multiple quick links.

What speed chain is it?

Any time I change chains I just count the old one and then count the new one.

If starting from scratch though then the methods described above are the way to go to measure.

If in doubt, make it bigger though. You can always take more links off till it's right.

Always a bit scary breaking the chain even when you know you've measured it right!

 

[raggydoll]

When counting links on old chain to compare it may be an idea to use a black marker or tiny bit of tape on a link (or just count from the quick link onwards if it has one) to make sure you don't lose track when counting!

 

[Juan Kog]

I measured the chain to the old one but it was jumping all over the place. Another chain as suggested by @Juan Kog might be the best option.

I see from your other thread it’s 7/8 speed , so annoying but not to costly to replace . The chain you remove may fit another bike in the future. My workshop ( the velo cave ) is full of things that may be useful in the future .

 

[raggydoll]

That's the good thing about 7/8 speed.
Chains are relatively inexpensive.
Though I think prices may have creeped up a little recently.

I use KMC chains.

You could:

• Price a new chain.
• Then price however many quick links you would need.

Which would be cheaper?

 

[Ajax Bay]

Just count the links on the old chain if that was right. Chain needs to be able to survive, but never be used intentionally in big:big, once routed through rear mech (it'll be near straight) then just long enough to make a join, or when fitting new chain it's often easiest by missing the rear mech out but add a link (a pair). Get some quick links.

You only know if the old chain is "right" by checking it large/large: the rear mech cage should not point higher than 5 o'clock.
So get a new chain (not Shimano), fit it on large/large (not through mech) and cut it so that it's at least an inch longer than that. Join with a quick link. 6/7/8sp chains are mercifully cheap: I prefer SRAM.

 

[nmfeb70]

Ok, so I bought a new 8 speed chain & cut it to the exact length of the original chain (not the aforementioned one) but the RD is now rattling?