Fair enough. I'll give it a go
Chain maintenance
- Thread starter Philz2002
- Start date
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raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
The thing you're doing with degreaser is cleaning the lube out inside the chain, any amount of oil on the surface is not lubing the essential parts
On another note are you sure the bike shop haven't pulled yer pants down re chain and sprockets, did they need changing?
On another note are you sure the bike shop haven't pulled yer pants down re chain and sprockets, did they need changing?
That was my concern. Chap showed me the chain measure and it was at 0.75. He also said that, with the chain that far stretched, the rear cassette will be gone as well.
Tbh before I took it in, o couldn't get it to change gears. Now, they hop over quite smoothly. So I think they did ok.
Problem is, I'm a bit of a gullible pillock. That's why I asked a question to this group. See if I've been done over...
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
You've had some wear from the components, so worse way you've not been totally done over.
Looks like the bike shop did a good job of fitting the new bits.
This has given you a fresh start, so put what's happened behind you, and move forward with an appropriate less invasive maintenance regime.
That's sage advice. Today I gave it all a good clean and relubing. I was meticulous and patient. Looks ok. When I run out of muc off I'll probably dash off to a different provider. But, we'll see.
Thank you for your help and advice
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
This is why I don't use products such as muc-off on bike mechanicals. It's just a fancy and expensive brand name for commercial Traffic Film Remover, which is used by fleet commercial vehicle operators to get the road grime off their trucks & buses. The difference is that on motor vehicles, most of the mechanicals aren't fully open like on bikes, and they often have automatic chassis lubrication systems that inject oil into things like spring bushes to prevent wear. On a bike, if you get too enthusiastic using TFR cleaning products, but are not super-diligent in re-lubing after, you are just stripping the protective oil films from your transmission. Rather than preventing wear, you are accelerating it, but you think everything is OK because the bike looks clean!
If I want to clean a really filthy gritty bike transmission, that's gone well beyond the wipe with a rag stage I'll completely remove the chain, leave it soaking in a solvent like diesel to clean it, then after hanging up to drip-dry, I'll leave it soaking in a tray of fresh engine oil before refitting to the bike. That ensures much better lubricant penetration between the working surfaces
That's cool. Up to this point, my chain hasn't got super caked, but if it did, I'd probably give it a few cleans. Get the worst off, then get a scrub on it, thrn clean as normal.
You get these chain cleaner units filled with brushes, but the sound the chain makes as it grounds it's way through doesn't sound health and muc off always always *always* leaves a greasy residue.
Used soap and water today. With a dry cloth it was dry in minutes. Felt worlds better
I’ve been using Decathlon degreaser for the last couple of years about a fiver a tin and it’s really effective.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-brake-degreaser-id_8549205.html
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-brake-degreaser-id_8549205.html
Eco friendly?
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
4 - 5000 miles a year split between two bikes, new chain for both bikes annually, I've stopped measuring chains they're always knackered after a years use, 3 chains to a cassette. Chain gets oiled when dry, wiped down with rag if its dirty, cleaned with white spirit and relubed if its very dirty, bike gets washed with soapy water once a week, and thats all the cleaning I do. A bike is for riding not endlessly cleaning and fettling.
DRM
Guru
- Location
- West Yorks
View: https://youtu.be/X1Vze17bhgk
Hope these help, also Park tools have some excellent repair videos
View: https://youtu.be/KM6mzE5lQ0w
Reading your first post you’ve used far too much lube, which attracts grit And then turns the lube into grinding paste.
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
I bought a bike from CRC. There was so much wrong with it I had to send it back. Their PDI checks are either non existent or they are so crap as to be incompetent at building bikes which makes me wonder weather they actually damage bikes as I cannot imagine they leave factories in Taiwan in the condition I got mine. Most bikes are delivered to dealers pretty much assembled anyway. All they have to do is take them out the boxes turn the handle bars or put them onto the stem clamp, pump up the tyres, remove packaging and tapes, pump up the tyres and a once over to check everything is present and works then they are done. But CRC couldn't even do this.
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
You should have as a bare minimum for maintenance of derailleur transmissions:
Park chain tool checker for stretch.
Chain link pliers.
Quick link for the chain for speedy removal and refitting to the bike.
Metal tray.
Tooth and nail brushes.
Nitrile gloves.
Mask.
Parafin or white spirit to clean the chain which can be re-used many times. Just pour back into a separate bottle.
Wash with warm/hot water/WUL. Rinse in bucket of clean water.
Clean cotton rags, old T-shirts are good to run chain through to dry and remove any remaining invisible to the eye crud for super clean chain.
Oven on low to thoroughly dry the chain.
Chain saw oil to relube the chain.
Chain link pliers to refit chain.
There is no point lubing a dirty chain. All that happens is the fresh oil/lube creates an even more destructive grinding paste. But it is not just chains that have to be kept clean. It is cassettes, chain rings and deraillieur jockey wheels as well, plus cleaning the rear wheel especially the braking surface if you still have ancient technology rim brakes.
This is the nature of derailleur transmissions. Fine in warm dry weather but as soon as it gets cold and or wet they are TERRIBLE. Bike cleaning agents and lubes are a huge rip off as well, hence I used paraffin or white spirit to clean and chainsaw oil to lube. I say used as I now have belt drive bikes as my everyday bikes and only ride derailleur bikes on totally dry days but even then I can't be bothered any more with the high maintenance they require. Grit and crud still sticks to the open system and still needs cleaning and then re-lubing. A real chore and a drudge if you regularly ride a lot of miles. Belt drive avoids all this and you don't get oily mucky crud over your bike, over your rear wheel, or on your clothing and hands when handling your bike. Belt drives - clean and silent. Happy days.
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There are plenty of people doing big miles in all weathers, doing minimal maintenance and getting good service from these TERRIBLE derailleur transmissions.
There are lots of good reasons why belt drives and hub gears etc are a rare sight.
This won't change any time soon imho.
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