Chain gone pop question

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John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Tynan said:
not exactly a lot in it though is there, what are yu saving over a year?

20 quid?

Depends on how the cassette runs with the next set of chains, I'd say. If I change these before they start to wear the cassette, I'm only buying chains, not chains plus cassette.

Of course the other school of thought is just to run everything into the ground, and replace the lot in one go.

Incidentally, if the Campag chains are such a pain (special tool for the links &c) I'd seriously consider KMC - their quick link system is a doddle to use.
 

yello

Guest
John the Monkey said:
Incidentally, if the Campag chains are such a pain (special tool for the links &c) I'd seriously consider KMC - their quick link system is a doddle to use.

Agreed. I switched from Campag to KMC and buy them in 3s as well.
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
All this expense is the downside of 10-speed. Not only are both the cassettes and chains substantially more expensive than 7-speed, they don't last as long either.
I'd bet John the Monkey's £10 KMC chains are 7 or 8 speed.

When you are deciding whether to change the chain frequently, rotate several chains on the same cassette, or just put a full new transmission on when it stops working, you have to be realistic about what checking etc you will actually do, rather than what you should do.

If changing chains, you will have to check stretch every week once they are over 500 miles. Forget for a couple of weeks, and you could find your chain worn enough to need a new cassette when you next check.
If you are rotating chains, and leave a chain on too long (eg forget to change before going on a week's holiday), not only will you want a new cassette, you will be left with several part worn chains that won't work on it.

Me, I know I'm prone to just park the bike when I get home and fail to look at it until just before I next go out, so I just leave everything on until it gives problems. On my 9-speed, I get about 7000 miles, then change the cassette and chain, and usually one chainring.

Sample costings, taking no account of chainrings, guessing at likely life, and assuming that you don't mess up your system:

Ribble 10-speed prices, including 10% >£50 discount (I was probably looking at Chainreaction before).
KMC x10 £15.50, KMC x10L Gold £23.36
105 cassette £36, Ultegra £45, old Dura-ace £114

ride it 'till it dies
105 cassette, gold chain = £60, 7000 miles = 0.8p per mile

3 chains and rotate
Ultegra + 3 x10 = £91.5, 14000 miles = 0.65p per mile

Try to make the Dura-ace cassette last forever
7 x10 chains = £108.5, 7000 miles = 1.55p per mile
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
My Dawes Giro 500 is just approaching 11,000 miles. It's on its second chain and the original Tiagra 9 cassette.

The original chain was not used. It was changed for a Sachs Silver on the day of purchase. I scrapped that Sachs Silver at 10,000 miles, which was during the Christmas holidays just gone with the bike two years old.

I've been commuting on my other bike up until last week, so 1000 miles of weekend stuff has surprised me after quickly counting up the club and leisure rides.

The Sora chainset has steel rings, which are not even touched.

Chain cleaning is the MIckle Method, and a spray of furniture polish for waterproofing ( Lemon flavour ).

The new chain was £20. A new cassette will be £17. = 0.35p per mile.

I could change them before they are worn to the limit and still be quids-in.
 

Auntie Helen

Ich bin Powerfrau!
I broke my chain at 3000ish miles. An expensive procedure as I have to have three chains for my recumbent. Once it was changed and the bike serviced by the LBS we discovered that I should have changed the rear cassette but as it was a weird size they had to order one from Japan. I continued riding the bike with the highest gear jumping and just lived with it.

After seven weeks or so the new cassette arrived at the LBS. By this point the new chain had worn enough so that the top gear no longer jumped. The new cassette was a shade under £60 which was horrific; couple this with £60 for three chains, and it's an expensive business! I'll get the cassette fitted when I replace my chain next time, which will probably be before my German cycle tour. But needed a new chain and possibly cassette every 3000 miles translates to almost 9p per mile!
 

Bodhbh

Guru
John the Monkey said:
Incidentally, if the Campag chains are such a pain (special tool for the links &c) I'd seriously consider KMC - their quick link system is a doddle to use.
I'm possibly missing a trick, but I've found the KMC quick link a pain to get off and ended up using a chain breaker anyhow - you just get the 2 links either side and push them together? When I push them together they just don't budge, even with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
 

yello

Guest
John the Monkey said:
I've always been able to open/close them with fingers only.

Me too. And when wearing gloves... latex type ones, not full-finger cycling gloves, or welding gloves etc... that would be an extreme claim! ;)
 

Mr Pig

New Member
Bodhbh said:
I've found the KMC quick link a pain to get off.

On the KMC ones you need to push the sides in as you push the ends together. Once they've been undone a few times they loosen off.
 
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Tynan

Tynan

Veteran
Location
e4
ah well, that what you get for tinkering with a proven design init

for the record, LBS have quoted me £149.97 for Veloce (in pace of my discontinued Xenon)

casette, big ring (the little one is mint), chain, labour
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Wow. Is Campag really that pricey? Swapping a cassette, rings etc is a pretty easy job, if you don't mind getting your fingers a bit oily.
 
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Tynan

Tynan

Veteran
Location
e4
I've checked their prices and they see about right for new, 10 speed remember

Cassette 40.99
Chain 28.99
Big Ring 59.99
Labour 20.00

Now for once, it's not an emergency job, and ebay has plenty of people selling new kit for nearly half that, All I'd need is a whip and a something tool to undo the cassette init?

The small ring is staying and the derailleur bits are all new as of a month ago

Easy job init?

I know for fact that all the campag 10 speed stuff is interchangeable

Anything fiddly about changing the big ring and cassette?

the current cassette looks like 12-26, that make sense?

ooh and if I change like for like, I can reuse the lock ring?
 

yello

Guest
You can still get Mirage, it's cheaper but I personally would go with Veloce if you can afford it. You could probably shave a few quid of that my getting a KMC chain and a TA chainring.

Yep, chain whip and cassette tool is all you need. Park Tools do a campag compatible cassette tool for under a tenner, around 7 or 8 quid as I recall.

Nothing fiddly but you might need to have a little think and take your time if you've not used a chain whip before.
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
Cassette:
You need a chainwhip to hold the freewheel still, and a lockring remover and matching spanner to take off the lockring. Slide off old cassette, slide new one on & refit lockring. Dead simple.

Chainrings:
You'll need a 5mm allen key and a peg spanner to hold the back of the nut still while you undo it. You will be able to take the ring off without taking the crank off.
 
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