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Deleted member 26715
Guest
For those who may have some pearls of wisdom.
Things I have done yesterday & today.
Removed the air temp sender, connected to multimeter, warmed it up with a hairdryer the resistance changed, tried the air temp sender in front of the MAF where it is as stock & also after MAF where I am running it, the readings were consistent in both positions with the engine running.
MAF, ran the engine at 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 2,5k & 3k & took the voltage at each step, plotted them on a graph & got an almost perfect straight line, which should indicate it's working as expected.
TPS, connected multimeter & then as the TPS was opened it was a steady increase in resistance & decrease as it was closed, tapping it gently at any given point doesn't make any difference.
Water temperature sender, as the water got hotter the voltage decreased, if the connector is removed the engine note changes & switches on the fan if the engine gets hot is also switches on the fan.
Fitted a new Lambda, even though I'm convinced there was nothing wrong with the last one, checked the wiring multiple times, I'm sure it's wired correctly
I've also continuity tested all the wires from the senders back to the ECU, I am now at my wits end, I have no further thoughts, I'm going to see the guy to who I've taken my carburettor cars to , he has a dyno etc. he works on programmable ECU's but as this is a sealed ECU I'm not sure he will be able to do anything.
Things I have done yesterday & today.
Removed the air temp sender, connected to multimeter, warmed it up with a hairdryer the resistance changed, tried the air temp sender in front of the MAF where it is as stock & also after MAF where I am running it, the readings were consistent in both positions with the engine running.
MAF, ran the engine at 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 2,5k & 3k & took the voltage at each step, plotted them on a graph & got an almost perfect straight line, which should indicate it's working as expected.
TPS, connected multimeter & then as the TPS was opened it was a steady increase in resistance & decrease as it was closed, tapping it gently at any given point doesn't make any difference.
Water temperature sender, as the water got hotter the voltage decreased, if the connector is removed the engine note changes & switches on the fan if the engine gets hot is also switches on the fan.
Fitted a new Lambda, even though I'm convinced there was nothing wrong with the last one, checked the wiring multiple times, I'm sure it's wired correctly
I've also continuity tested all the wires from the senders back to the ECU, I am now at my wits end, I have no further thoughts, I'm going to see the guy to who I've taken my carburettor cars to , he has a dyno etc. he works on programmable ECU's but as this is a sealed ECU I'm not sure he will be able to do anything.