Although you work for velotech I think you are wrong. The videos on Campagnolo website show 2009 models ( I think) being stripped down and put back together.
SEE HERE
Actually, no. In practical terms, I am right.
This is part of the service that we supply to Campagnolo and have done for over 5 years ... and I have been working with Campagnolo since 1986, so have seen most things - to the extent that we are now the only company in the world (outside of Campagnolo subsidiaries) who are permitted by Campagnolo to deliver technical training on a fully factory-accredited basis.
As a result of what we do looking after service and warranty issues and technical training matters, we deal with these types of queries on a very regular basis.
As another post suggests, it is sometimes possible to repair these levers but repair is rarely, if ever, 100% successful without access to full spares.
Although Campagnolo themselves supply full strip and rebuild instructions and the video that you refer to, the main fault that occurs with these post 2007 entry-level levers - generally refererred to as "Escape type" as they work on an escapement principle - can only be fully rectified with the transfer of some or all of the original lever internals into a new body shell.
Up until 2009, the post 07 type units had full spares available, however, as the 10s items were redesigned for the 2010 season, the decision was taken to withdraw full spares support. That included the full body shell.
Hence, in order to carry out almost all repairs of the post 2007 levers, it is necessary to strip another lever and transfer parts - with no guarantee that the lever body in question does not or will not suffer from the same problems as the body one is transferring parts from.
The only part where this is not the case in the newer Escape type levers is the "inner lever" (or "lever 2" as we normally refer to it) which is still available as a spare as it was until recently shared with other Campagnolo after-market units and is still used in two OE units.
As the OP refers to a seized thumb lever (lever 3), and as both lever 3 and the escapement which it has to operate in very accurately-timed co-operation with, are both permanently fixed into the lever body shell, then if lever 3 really has seized and it is an Escape unit, then repair is possible but unlikely to be totally successful, especially as the most common fault with Escape type levers arisies from the timing between the actions of lever 3 and the escapement being dsturbed by a distortion of the fixing pins that attach them into the lever body.
Any attempt to free up the motion of lever 3 might risk causing that distortion, either through the use of force, or the use of aggressive penetrating oils which may attack the plastic composite that the pivot pins are anchored in.
However, if the fault is
not a seized lever 3 at all (and I should say that we have never seen that in an Escape lever) then there is a possibility of repair - which is why we suggest the option of sending us the lever. Whilst Campagnolo no longer supply full spares, we still have a fairly complete selection, although we no longer have the body shells themselves, having long ago run out of stock.
Lever 3 problems in Escape are usually related to the part of the lever that is designed to hold the spring loaded ratchet still whilst the escapement disengages from it not meeting the ratchet correctly, so lever 3 will not depress or will only depress a very small amount.
This can have several causes, but lever 3 & escapement pivot alignment is one of them.
As a result of these complications, our default position is that Escape levers are not repairable - as when repair is carried out, other than in comparatively rare circumstances, we can't guarantee function.
Pre 2007 units are another thing entirely.
The most common lever 3 fault with these (if one discounts general vagueness or failure of shift) is that the pivot that allows the drive pawl on lever 3 into contact with the ratchet on the cable bushing (as we refer to the part that sets the index interval) can seize. In this case there are two fixes - a new lever 3, or sometimes the use of penetrating oil and a lot of movement of the pivot to free it up is successful.
The essential difference that can be seen without removing the lever from the bike is that lever 3 is of all-plastic construction in an Escape lever, and there is no visible metal ratchet adjacent to it (plus the hood, if the correct one is fitted, has a simple, small, tear-drop shaped hole in it through which the lever passes).
Non-Escape levers have a lever 3 which has a plastic upper part that the thumb presses, but a metal chassis that also carries a pawl that engages on a metal ratchet as lever 3 is depressed. The correct hood is slotted for lever 3 to emerge as it's travel is much longer than in the case of the Escape type.
We would, as a general policy, always prefer to repair than to replace if function can be assurred, whether we are looking at an Escape-type or a non-Escape ErgoPower unit.
Kind regards
Graeme