Fab Foodie
hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
- Location
- Kirton, Devon.
Crackle said:Fantastic quote
It's one of those tricks of the trade from the old-timers of the bike world...
Cadence
- Thread starter Maz
- Start date
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It's one of those tricks of the trade from the old-timers of the bike world...
Aperitif
Meme bar
- Location
- ...I don't have much idea - really.
My cha-cha-chadence is 65, 82, 65, 86 - I only noticed that today, as I checked the Polar for my last four rides etc...
Lots of pedalling downhill...
Lots of pedalling downhill...jayce
New Member
- Location
- south wales
I have an arrow on my computer when it points down i put more work in so it points up then alls fine ,but it always points down uphill ..
marinyork said:
Then you've been missing out on savouring his posts. I used to work with someone very like Jimbo, when they say about thinking outside the box, it was difficult to get him to acknowledge the box. Personally I thought he was a genius but others didn't really get him. Reminds me, I must give him a call.
marooncat
New Member
- Location
- West Lothian
Any recomendations for a decent computer for measuring cadence which does not break the bank...
Young Un
New Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
marooncat said:
I can get the Cateye Strade Cadence, in my LBS for about 38 quid, so you should be able to get it on the internet for about £35. I have the version without the cadence and it is a very good computer.
I'm still trying to get the hang of this cadence malarky. Finally treated myself to a Garmin Edge 705 (now known as Gary) with a HR monitor and cadence sensor. Took Gary out for a spin early afternoon. My average cadence was 68 rpm. This was over quite a hilly route (max elevation was just over 1200 ft whatever that means, started off at around 400 ft). I take it that "grinding" is when you are in a high gear and the pedal resistance feels quite high. Whereas "spinning" is where you are in a lower gear and just turn the pedals really fast and easily (because you really could be in a higher gear)?
Don't know about average as climbs and stuff will affect that, what is it along the flat and what is it going uphill?
The thing about cadence is that you need to study and familiarise yourself with your own and equate it with how you feel on a ride. A little bit of experimentation, say deliberately picking a gear to maintain a cadence of 60 on a hill you normally do at 50 and then seeing if you ascend it quicker that way or feel fresher at the top or improve your hill climbing etc. Those kind of things are where it is useful. Monitor that against your HR and just learn what your body is doing on rides.
Apart from obviously stopping you grinding away at 50 rpm, a cadence monitor is just a tool to help you get more out of yourself and it may take a bit of time to figure out how it will help you.
Gary: You named your Garmin Gary, Plax; honestly.
The thing about cadence is that you need to study and familiarise yourself with your own and equate it with how you feel on a ride. A little bit of experimentation, say deliberately picking a gear to maintain a cadence of 60 on a hill you normally do at 50 and then seeing if you ascend it quicker that way or feel fresher at the top or improve your hill climbing etc. Those kind of things are where it is useful. Monitor that against your HR and just learn what your body is doing on rides.
Apart from obviously stopping you grinding away at 50 rpm, a cadence monitor is just a tool to help you get more out of yourself and it may take a bit of time to figure out how it will help you.
Gary: You named your Garmin Gary, Plax; honestly.
You can get a handle on your optimum cadence by getting on a gym bike for an afternoon.
Aiming for the same Watts output, slowly increase the resistance of the machine from zero ( fast cadence ) to Max ( low cadence ); keeping a note of your HR.
The curve shold be 'bowl' shaped with high HR at super-fast cadence and really-low cadence, but lower HR at the cadence where your body wants to pedal.
When you know your own 'optimum' cadence, grinding is pedaling lower and spinning is pedaling faster than your natural cadence.
In other words, grinding RPM for one person might be optimum for another person. Likewise, spinning RPM for one person may be optimum for another person.
Aiming for the same Watts output, slowly increase the resistance of the machine from zero ( fast cadence ) to Max ( low cadence ); keeping a note of your HR.
The curve shold be 'bowl' shaped with high HR at super-fast cadence and really-low cadence, but lower HR at the cadence where your body wants to pedal.
When you know your own 'optimum' cadence, grinding is pedaling lower and spinning is pedaling faster than your natural cadence.
In other words, grinding RPM for one person might be optimum for another person. Likewise, spinning RPM for one person may be optimum for another person.
Crackle said:
Well, I suppose I could have called it Minnie, but I much rather prefer Gary
. I'm still playing with all the different features on it so I still have a lot to learn. I'm sure Gary and I will have a very happy future together though. I shall hopefully get to go out spinning tomorrow.
Sapper
New Member
Plax said:Well, I suppose I could have called it Minnie, but I much rather prefer Gary.
I'm still playing with all the different features on it so I still have a lot to learn. I'm sure Gary and I will have a very happy future together though. I shall hopefully get to go out spinning tomorrow.
I too have just bought a Garmin 705 Cycle computer.
Whilst I have not yet worked out how to monitor my rides using the garmin software, I do monitor my cadence and have been recording my heart beat.
I think before I had the toy, I was a grinder and did a 60 mile route as part of my training and I suffered towards the end.
A couple of weeks later having been using the cadence feature, I found the same disance a lot easier, as i endeavoured to keep my cadence around 90-95 ish.
Able to do the distance -possibly quicker. Might also be helped that I changed my tyres from Marathon plus to Pro-3s for my charity cycle ride later this month.
So any advice on how to use the garmin 705? maybe should start a separate thread?
Adrian
marinyork said:
Welcome to the club! It took me a few posts to tune in but it's a truly beautiful world! And I in all seriousness do not mean anything belittling or cute by that - Jimbo is hugely knowledgeable and we can all learn from him.
Back to cadence... I try to mix it up a little, as suits my legs at the time. I can't spin like a hamster, I need to feel at least some resistance, but I will pedal at 95 or lazy pedal a big gear (50ish), as the mood suits me.
I did notice with one of my recent rides that spinning (and by that I mean 90+) for any length of time did result in my right knee aching; this is almost contrary to popular wisdom! It's supposedly grinding that causes that!
When climbing, I like to try and keep above 70 at least... but it really depends on the gradient! I did a randonée last Sunday and coming up to a climb saw a fellow ahead of me battling away on his double/contact. It looked uncomfortable. I used my granny ring and caught him. He was cooked at the top whilst I could change up and leave him. I was still fresh-ish. This is not a triple v double thing, it made me think how much leg energy is used grinding. If I want to rest my legs a little then spinning seems to help.
Chris James
Über Member
- Location
- Huddersfield
I have a cadence function on my bike computer, but I no longer use it much. I just go with what feels comfortable.
On the flat that seems to be about 90 - 100. I can spin at 120 + easily enough.
Up hills it can go as low as 45 ish - probably routinely it is 60 on a long 10%. It depends how steep it is and how knackered I am.
By the time I am doing 45rpm I am already in bottom gear so knowing that I 'should' pick a lower gear for higher cadence isn't much help!
On the flat that seems to be about 90 - 100. I can spin at 120 + easily enough.
Up hills it can go as low as 45 ish - probably routinely it is 60 on a long 10%. It depends how steep it is and how knackered I am.
By the time I am doing 45rpm I am already in bottom gear so knowing that I 'should' pick a lower gear for higher cadence isn't much help!
If you are a high cadence sort of chappie, don't go trying a steep hill on a high gear straight away.
Find a hill that is pretty steep - steeper than 10% but less than 14%, 12% will do.
Get warmed up and ride up it on LOWEST gear. Freewheel down to rest the legs and then climb it again on the next highest gear.
Repeat this until you cannot pedal and ditch out sideways in a heap. If your knees hurt - STOP.
That's one session.
Eat lots of protien food and then next week, do it all over again.
Over the weeks, you will be climbing that hill on higher gears at a lower cadence. You will no longer be frightened of a 12%.
Go in search of a 14% and try a session on it.
Success? Go and find a 20%.
Success? Strap a 10lb weight to your bike.
Within a season, there won't be much that will scare you.
And you didn't have to buy a larger cassette.
Just a pair of rear hub cones.
Find a hill that is pretty steep - steeper than 10% but less than 14%, 12% will do.
Get warmed up and ride up it on LOWEST gear. Freewheel down to rest the legs and then climb it again on the next highest gear.
Repeat this until you cannot pedal and ditch out sideways in a heap. If your knees hurt - STOP.
That's one session.
Eat lots of protien food and then next week, do it all over again.
Over the weeks, you will be climbing that hill on higher gears at a lower cadence. You will no longer be frightened of a 12%.
Go in search of a 14% and try a session on it.
Success? Go and find a 20%.
Success? Strap a 10lb weight to your bike.
Within a season, there won't be much that will scare you.
And you didn't have to buy a larger cassette.
Just a pair of rear hub cones.
