Cadence/speed computer vs Iphone apps

[Boy1608]

Hi guys,

I am new to cycling (well April) and have been looking at getting a cycle computer. One of the guys at work suggested I just get an iphone app and sensor.

What I would like measure is cadence and average speed more than anything. I use Mapmyride at the moment... but it's stuffed in my seat bag and gives me an average at the end and map of the ride (it's not a clever name :-) ) but I want to be able to see this as I go.

Looking around... it can cost a lot for a decent Iphone holder... and then I have no idea how much a sensor is. Can someone recommend something?! Not too expensive!! I am not buying a Garmin100000000 for £!!!!!! :-)

Thanks and any advice REALLY appreciated!

Chris

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Edge 500 + GSC10 sensor unit or Wahoo fitness speed/cad sensor.

www.handtec.co.uk

Done and doesn't break the bank.

 

[Boy1608]

Edge 500 + GSC10 sensor unit or Wahoo fitness speed/cad sensor.

www.handtec.co.uk

Done and doesn't break the bank.

Top banana Thank you! thats brilliant... just looking for the best thing! :-) Thanks!

 

[BRounsley]

If you have a iPhone 4S or later (4S, 5 ,5S) then they support Bluetooth v4 (this is low power version of Bluetooth) so any Bluetooth cadence-speed sensor should work.
Wahoo and Topeak (£32 from wiggle) are two options.
I also have the Bluetooth Wahoo hart rate monitor, it’s very good.
I attach my iPhone 5 to my bike with a ‘Topeak Ridecase II’ (I think this this only fits an iPhone 5). It’s about £35. If you want to make it monsoon proof you can also buy the additional ‘Topeak Dry Bag’ (both fit the same mount and you can stick the ridecase in the drybag).
There is more expensive mount solution such as a ‘lifeproof’ cases but I prefer to keep my phone nude when not on the bike so the Ridecase is good for me.
The beauty of the iPhone is you can run many apps at the same time and try new ones out. I Strava-er, so that’s always running in the background for easy uploading. I use MotionX as my cycle computer and navigation and stick TomTom on if I’m properly lost.
A great feature of MotionX is you can broadcast you position (to other MotionX users). Great on a cycle tour/ride when you breakup into groups and know how people are getting on.
So if you have an iPhone you can be up and running for £70. Obviously there is a £500 iPhone cost but I’d have the phone anyway.
If you want to leave the phone in the bag, for £115 you can get something called a ‘wahoo rflk’. This is a bluetooth LCD screen (I had one but it was attached to my bike when stolen, only used it once, it appeared to be very good). You cannot navigate with a ‘wahoo rflk’ it just gives you stats.
My iPhone 5 will do about 5 hours with the screen/GPS on. Any longer I just attach an external battery, that cost £20, and finish all day rides with 100% phone charge (Topeak sell a cool looking one that attaches to the stem).
There’s always a strong Garmin following. The advantage of a Garmin is better battery light and the screen can be easier to read in strong light. I’m probably lighting the touch paper here but my prediction is Garmin will be software only company within 10 years. All of the latest 10s ranges features are sharing information (via a smartphone). All sensors are going Bluetooth v4. The last leap is people taking their phone out of there jersey pocket and putting it on their handlebars.

 

[Boy1608]

Brilliant.. I have an Iphone 4s... hence the query.. sounds like Iphones are pretty good... it's just the case and the sensor.

Thanks!

 

[BRounsley]

Brilliant.. I have an Iphone 4s... hence the query.. sounds like Iphones are pretty good... it's just the case and the sensor.

Thanks!

I was an early adopter with an iPhone 3G, it started half-baked but now it all works a treat (iPhone 5s pack something called the M7 chip). The software is just getting better and better. Strava now gives you instant segment result (if you pay for the pro) for example. TomTom has a cycle option and with an iPhone 5 having loads of poke it reroutes in seconds (it’s my car SatNav also).
The only thing I’m not 100% happy with is how I have the external battery connected up in the wet. Dry Bag mounted horizontal with the phone bottom (cable end) facing the dry bag opening end. All works just looks a bit cobbled together.
If you have an iPhone 4S have a look at the lifeProof cases you may be able to get a bargain.

 

[Boy1608]

I was an early adopter with an iPhone 3G, it started half-baked but now it all works a treat (iPhone 5s pack something called the M7 chip). The software is just getting better and better. Strava now gives you instant segment result (if you pay for the pro) for example. TomTom has a cycle option and with an iPhone 5 having loads of poke it reroutes in seconds (it’s my car SatNav also).
The only thing I’m not 100% happy with is how I have the external battery connected up in the wet. Dry Bag mounted horizontal with the phone bottom (cable end) facing the dry bag opening end. All works just looks a bit cobbled together.
If you have an iPhone 4S have a look at the lifeProof cases you may be able to get a bargain.

Thanks,. thats ace!

 

[uclown2002]

All roads lead to Garmin; you won't regret it.

 

[Boy1608]

All roads lead to Garmin; you won't regret it.

Thanks for that ..... what is the best value one though? I have seen some for hundreds...

 

[Berties]

Started with endamondo on my iPhone then a bryton40 with all bells and whistles then garmin800 all roads do go to garmin I'm afraid,

 

[uclown2002]

Thanks for that ..... what is the best value one though? I have seen some for hundreds...

If you want cadence then Garmin Edge 500 + GSC10 sensor unit.

Great bit of kit.

You can keep your phone for texting, making calls and playing games

I have the 800 but too much for my needs; should have got the 500.

 

[IncoherentJeff]

I've a Garmin Edge 200 (just spotted their down to £85! (halfords)).

However being the cheaper Garmin it doesn't support cadence or HR monitors. So I would recommend the next spec up if you're looking to measure cadence!

Brilliant battery life on the Garmin. Depending on the length of your rides the iPhone battery life may be an issue. Before I got the Garmin I used Strava on my iPhone 4S.

On a long ride with my phone fully charged at the start only running the Strava app (no other apps in the background) with the phone screen turned off. The battery lasted 3hours 57mins & 4secs.

 

[YIMan]

I gave up with cycle GPS tracking on the IPhone because the battery simply didn't last long enough. Even fully charged it wouldn't cover a 2 hour ride. If I was commuting and had been using it during the day, it was touch and go whether there'd be enough juice left for a 50 minute commute - and that's without having bluetooth on.

This was admittedly with a 3GS but I double the later models are better enough to make it flaw-proof.

 

[Richard Broomhead]

Hi,

I've been using one of these http://www.decathlon.co.uk/count-14-wireless-cycling-computer-id_8181213.html for the last 8 or 9 months and it has been pretty good. The mount swivels so it can be attached to either the stem or bars. The sensors fit along the none-drive side chainstay - there are two connected by a short length of cable, one to pick up cadence from a crank-mounted magnet, and the other to pick up speed from the wheel. The wheel-sensor also contains the battery and wireless sender unit. The instructions show the unit mounted on the top of the chainstay, but that seemed to be asking for trouble, so I mounted it underneath which does mean that the battery cover is on the outside and the battery function test button is not easily accessible, but I'm happier that way round. Setting the exact position of the sensor in relation to the wheel magnet in turn needed greater precision, but it does work well.

Attachments are by rubber bands, with small saddles for zip ties (supplied) for additional security if required. Since it's all rear-wheel mounted, it will still work in your turbo. Heart strap is an optional extra, but the head unit apparently works with any ANT+ strap - I can't confirm this as I just bought the matching strap at the same time.
All info from the computer is easily uploaded to your PC which displays a monthly mileage total along with your monthly avg speed, so if you're on the comeback trail like me, it can be quite encouraging to see how mileage and speed has risen over time, particularly when it feels like you're still grovelling along.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[BRounsley]

I’ll get 5ish hours from my iPhone 5 with the screen on, it’s the screen that kills the battery. I do switch the Wi-Fi off when I go for a long ride as that saves a bit of power.
But if you suffer from battery anxiety just get an external battery. I have the older version of this battery.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet®-Ex...lackberry-Black/dp/B000UH46YY/ref=pd_sim_ce_3
I only take the battery when I’m touring so will be out all day. I stick the battery in a top tube bag and run a cable to phone so the phone is always on charge. The battery is 7,000mAh an iPhone is 1,500mAh so in theory it will charge the phone 4 ½ times (so starting with a charged phone that’s about 5 phone cycles). I’ll be out all day (12 + hours) the phone will have 100% charged and the battery will have 50%ish of its power left.
Having the phone on charge was the last piece of the puzzle for relying on the phone for all of my cycle navigation. Years ago I had a iPhone 3G die on me outside of Milton Keynes, never been before or since, but my experiences is your either on a cycle path with no landmarks (all paths lead to a bus stop on a duel carriageway) or on a duel carriageway!