Buying new wheel

[Spoked Wheels]

But your experience is atypical: most people do not have this problem - so does it relate to the modern world - I suggest not (but off topic).
Your frame is an old one which has a dropout of only 126mm. You want to stick to 7sp and want rims wide enough to take 28s. The market for such wheels is very small.
Ask yourself why the spokes are loosening. If they are always in tension, what is mechanism which is making them loosen?
Since your LBS doesn't seem to have managed to build you a wheel that does the business (and locktite on spoke nipples is a poor idea, at best), what about asking @Spoked Wheels if he will help, using your current hub with new rim and spokes? See this thread: hand-built-wheels-update-£20-per-wheel-building-service-to-cc-members

I've not read the thread @Ajax Bay but it's very likely the wheel was built under tensioned in the first place. Tensioning the spokes might not be a long term solution anymore but maybe worth trying as it's the cheapest alternative.

 

[iluvmybike]

'Large flange' refers to the flange of the hub - the bit with the spoke holes in. The other refers to the bearings within the hub shell

 

[mcshroom]

If the frame is steel then it should accept a 130mm OLN rear hub easily enough.

Your current wheel sounds under-tensioned though. Are most of the loose spokes on the Non-drive side?

 

[iluvmybike]

[QUOTE 4943794, member: 9609"]thank you , but what I was really trying to get at was;

what is the big difference / advantages of cartridge bearings over the basic cone type ones and is the 6000NBK a particular good one ? will I get more miles than my current cones that will be in excess of 50,000 miles, or will they be modern specials that last 6k if your lucky?

and what is the story behind 'large flange as opposed to regular. will I be able to still get spokes for a standard rim at sensible prices, or could special large flanges mean I will be forced into buying special spokes and special rims at special prices.

I'm really just wanting a normal wheel, I'm not doing the tour de bolloxs or going to a black tie event[/QUOTE]
The size of the flange changes the length of spoke needed - standard spokes. NBK is just a manufacturers name - the 6000 refers to bearing size (10 x 26 x 8mm). If they have letters after such as 2RS then that means the bearing has two rubber seals - one on each side. Budget ones come without any seals. But the ones with seals AFAIK they are all much of a muchness if you buy from a decent bearing supplier such a Simply Bearings - https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=6000

 

[50K]

I didnt want to start a new thread so can I slip in here with some questions regarding a new rearwheel I bought?

The new wheel is slightly different, running fine (its designed for shraeda but I'm using presta instead so I don't have to carry two tubes). I feel that on the lowest gear I don't / can't cycle as fast, does this mean the 7th has a different amount of teeth on the casette ring? Can I fix this by using the same ring from my old cassette? The cassette on this is very new but the other one is almost two years old and has been through a lot! Any suggestions? I wouldn't want to replace this new cassette at this point really.

It is the same size wheel (700) and fits my tyres without issue the difference is rim wall height and shape.

cheers

 

[Ajax Bay]

The new wheel is . . . designed for shraeda but I'm using presta instead
on the lowest gear I don't / can't cycle as fast, does this mean the 7th has a different amount of teeth on the casette ring? Can I fix this by using the same ring from my old cassette? The cassette on this is very new but the other one is almost two years old and has been through a lot! Any suggestions? I wouldn't want to replace this new cassette at this point really.

On the Shrader/Presta issue, you'd be advised to use a threaded valve stem (Presta) and a ring that screws down to the hole to keep the valve stem central in the slightly oversized hole. An alternate approach is to drill out the front wheel rim and carry just Shrader valved spare tubes.
I assume that both the new and the old wheel are 7 speed. I'm also going to assume that when you say 'lowest gear' you mean highest (least number of cogs on the sprocket - often 12), ie the one a rider uses when going fast (one uses the lowest to climb a steep hill). Are the hubs/sprockets on both the old wheel and the new wheel ones with a freehub and a cassette? (as opposed to a freewheel block). See Sheldon for the difference. If they are different, you cannot swap anything over.
If they are both cassettes you could replace the smallest sprocket with the one from the cassette on the old wheel (and use the lockring from the old wheel too), but there are two issues: the sprocket may be worn and that will wear the chain quickly (both aspects will depend on how much you use the smallest sprocket, as a proportion of the overall use). The other issue is that changing up from the smallest (scavenged from the 'old' cassette) to the second smallest sprocket may be less than smooth (it's to do with ramp design on the sprockets at matching points).
You need to count the number of teeth/cogs on the largest and smallest sprocket of both cassettes/blocks and report back to us.
Whatever the outcome we come to regarding sprocket size, I also recommend that if you are using a new wheel with a new cassette that you get a new chain as well. Otherwise the old chain you have on now will wear the sprockets very quickly. A new chain will save you money and angst in the relatively short term. (Edit: Having read the other thread, I see you have fitted a new chain.)