OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
I would but the length isnt finalised so I'll be making two cuts. One generous to get it close, the second after seeing my fitter in three weeks.
Hmm.
Building up and maintaining a carbon bike
- Thread starter Tin Pot
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Hmm.
PhilDawson8270
Veteran
You can still use the "clamp" on the top tube.
There's a difference between holding and clamping. Find the right angle, and the balance point and use the clamp set very loosely. So that it just stops it falling off.
After all, are you never going to pick your bike up at any point by the top tube?
I would make the first cut using a hacksaw, it should not matter too much if it is a bit rough. Then the final cut can be done properly.
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
Have you seen This is Spinal Tap? Well, this is in many ways Nigel's foam green six string bass still with the tags on it.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
My tips:
1) Use a carbon fibre seatpost if you can. Carbon and aluminium react galvanically and an aluminium seatpost very soon becomes frozen in place, especially if just a bit of sweat of salt gets in there. If not carbon, regularly remove the seatpost, clean it and put fresh carbon paste on it.
2) Whenever you hacksaw a carbon post of sorts, use the finest saw possible. An abrasive blade is best. Reason is that a sawtooth breaks fibres away and the loose fibres travel upwards like a broken sapling branch. It isn 't the end of the world, but it looks crap. The carbon sawdust is worst of the worst, vacuum as you saw.
3) When cutting the steerer tube, measure so that you have a spacer above the stem. Carbon tubes don't clamp well at the ends, it is best to apply a clamping force away from edges. The stem clamp and continuous tugging at the stem quickly squashes the tube and propagates a crack down the tube that presents as a floppy handlebar. Always leave space on top and put a spacer there.
4) Clamp it where you like but use common sense. Never torque something tight when the frame is in a stand. Always support it on the floor, for instance when torquing BB cups, not that your frame will have threaded cups - but similar for pedals.
5) Buy a little torque wrench. It will save you plenty of tears. All torques on the frame will be marked.
1) Use a carbon fibre seatpost if you can. Carbon and aluminium react galvanically and an aluminium seatpost very soon becomes frozen in place, especially if just a bit of sweat of salt gets in there. If not carbon, regularly remove the seatpost, clean it and put fresh carbon paste on it.
2) Whenever you hacksaw a carbon post of sorts, use the finest saw possible. An abrasive blade is best. Reason is that a sawtooth breaks fibres away and the loose fibres travel upwards like a broken sapling branch. It isn 't the end of the world, but it looks crap. The carbon sawdust is worst of the worst, vacuum as you saw.
3) When cutting the steerer tube, measure so that you have a spacer above the stem. Carbon tubes don't clamp well at the ends, it is best to apply a clamping force away from edges. The stem clamp and continuous tugging at the stem quickly squashes the tube and propagates a crack down the tube that presents as a floppy handlebar. Always leave space on top and put a spacer there.
4) Clamp it where you like but use common sense. Never torque something tight when the frame is in a stand. Always support it on the floor, for instance when torquing BB cups, not that your frame will have threaded cups - but similar for pedals.
5) Buy a little torque wrench. It will save you plenty of tears. All torques on the frame will be marked.
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
First test on the turbo today...and boy carbon is flexible.
Fixed the chain that wouldn't click into place by forcing the missing link over one of the chain ring teeth with a spanner, then...
Loads of problems.
Switched over the rear wheel and the brakes kept rubbing.
Loosened the brakes to get the wheel on then the brake cable rubbed the crank.
Sorted the brake cable then the wheel started rubbing the frame...!
Sorted that, but putting the hammer down it started again...these rear dropouts are an immense pain.
There's still some sort of regular clicking I can't identify that goes away when examining it off the bike - could be the pedals.
My two alu Cinellis have been easy on the turbo, and solid - this thing you can see roughly double the movement. And getting on the handlebars I can feel it flex!
This is going to be interesting on the open road, I can't imagine descending at speed.
Fixed the chain that wouldn't click into place by forcing the missing link over one of the chain ring teeth with a spanner, then...
Loads of problems.
Switched over the rear wheel and the brakes kept rubbing.
Loosened the brakes to get the wheel on then the brake cable rubbed the crank.
Sorted the brake cable then the wheel started rubbing the frame...!
Sorted that, but putting the hammer down it started again...these rear dropouts are an immense pain.
There's still some sort of regular clicking I can't identify that goes away when examining it off the bike - could be the pedals.
My two alu Cinellis have been easy on the turbo, and solid - this thing you can see roughly double the movement. And getting on the handlebars I can feel it flex!
This is going to be interesting on the open road, I can't imagine descending at speed.
S-Express
Guest
And you're saying it flexes? Where?
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
It's known for it. I can see the bottom bracket move and feel the handlebars. Previously I'd only see a little side to side on the bb, but it's much more pronounced.
