Breaking a chain nightmare

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Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Can I hijack this thread with a meditation on chain tools?

It's often said that you have to know how to use them properly. I have to admit that I don't really know much about them.

When do you use them?
- To split a chain (from new, or in a roadside emergency to remove a broken link prior to installing a spare split link). How hard is that? Surely you just drive the pin right out and that's it.
- To free up a stiff link. I know there's a special way of using a chain tool to do this. I can't remember it as I've only done it once. It worked OK, btw.
- to install a snap-off pin. I don't use those, so I don't need to know about that.

What other special knowledge do you need to operate one properly?

Provided that your favoured chain joining method is a split link, rather than one of those snap-off pins all you have to do is to be able to drive a pin right out, and maybe ease a split link. Anything else?

My on-bike multitool (TOM-18) has an emergency chain tool that maybe I will one day need to clean up a broken chain (hopefully not). But it's listed as being only 8/9 speed compatible. Does this mean that I'll have difficulty breaking a 10 speed chain with it? I can't see why I should, it seems to line up OK.

I've got a couple of others knocking around, including one very very old one (so that'll be 5 speed). I can't for the life of me remember what "speed" the the other one is.

It seems to be such a simple tool. Why do you need a different one for different width chains (8/9/10 sp etc)?

Ha ha ha. I have just edited this post. And added nothing useful.
 
Last edited:

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
To free up a stiff link. I know there's a special way of using a chain tool to do this. I can't remember it as I've only done it once. It worked OK, btw.
I think that is what the middle prongs are for. See this youtube video for how to do it


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDFSTi6aMxQ
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
I should add, don't use the middle prongs for splitting a chain. They will just bend or break off. They are only designed for the relatively low load required to spread a link and remove the stiffness.
 
Location
Loch side.
When do you use them?
- To split a chain (from new, or in a roadside emergency to remove a broken link prior to installing a spare split link). How hard is that? Surely you just drive the pin right out and that's it.
- To free up a stiff link. I know there's a special way of using a chain tool to do this. I can't remember it as I've only done it once. It worked OK, btw.
- to install a snap-off pin. I don't use those, so I don't need to know about that.

You would use one when fitting a new chain since you have to remove the excess links.
You would use it in the field if you damaged a chain and want to remove a link or two so that you can shorten the chain and limp home on reduced gear choices.
You would use it in the field if you broke off a plate and want to replace the broken 1/2 link with a magic/quick link.
In order to free up a stiff chain link which is par for the course on a new fitment, you hold the chain in your two fists with the stiff link in the center between your two hands and you bend the chain sideways until the link runs smooth over a pencil or screwdriver held as a pulley.
To break off the snap bit from a Shimano pin, you would use the hole in the chain tool.

What other special knowledge do you need to operate one properly?

Always oil any screw thread that's to be used as a press, like that in the chain tool.
Always rest the chain against the fattest prong at the end of the tool.
Always centre the tool's pin properly on the chain rivet.
It should be hard to pop the rivet but not so hard that you pop a vein. If it feels absolutely dead and won't move, check for silly mistakes.

Provided that your favoured chain joining method is a split link, rather than one of those snap-off pins all you have to do is to be able to drive a pin right out, and maybe ease a split link. Anything else?

No, and you don't even need the tool to free the stiff link.

My on-bike multitool (TOM-18) has an emergency chain tool that maybe I will one day need to clean up a broken chain (hopefully not). But it's listed as being only 8/9 speed compatible. Does this mean that I'll have difficulty breaking a 10 speed chain with it? I can't see why I should, it seems to line up OK.


I've got a couple of others knocking around, including one very very old one (so that'll be 5 speed). I can't for the life of me remember what "speed" the the other one is.

It seems to be such a simple tool. Why do you need a different one for different width chains (8/9/10 sp etc)?

It will work with 10-speed but not with 11. A ten-speed chain is just as wide internally as a 9-speed but the rivet heads have been countersunk to make the chain narrower. Same with 11-speed. The countersunk rivet means that when you push the rivet out, the hole in the plate is enlarged, damaged and the plate bent. These rivets are really hard to pop. Do NOT try to reuse such a plate.
11-speed chains also require a special chain tool with a little anvil at the end that peens the rivet. IN other words, your 8/9/10=speed tool will pop the rivet but not be able to replace the OEM pin supplied. Just use a quick link instead of buying a new tool and expensive OEM rivets.

If you have a small fold-up chain tool on your multitool for emergency use, I suggest you practice to use it. Many of them are so fiddly that without lubrication and practice, you may as well duck-walk home in your cleats.
 

Gez73

Veteran
I recently replaced a chain and needed to shorten the new one. Used a Park Tool CT5. Tiny but dead easy to use. Never needed to use one in an emergency but happy to rely on it. Was quite surprised at the force required though and can understand concerns about lesser tools. Practice is key. KMC and a quick link before Shimano and loose pins everytime!
 
OP
OP
R

robbo891

Active Member
Location
North East
of course i dont mind. yellow saddle answered those questions spot on too.

The tools are dead easy to use so it was to my surprise when i couldnt break my chain I thought what on earth am i doing wrong. turns out nothing. it was the chain. id love to hear about people experiences splitting those pins with two circles.
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
If you avoid the cheap tools you should be OK (as with any cheap tools they're made with brie cheese). I have a heavier duty one at home coz it's bigger so easier on the fingers than the smaller Park Tools one in the tool kit.

I ditched my old one from 5 and 6 speed days as it jammed in the chains for 7 and 8 speed. Not sure which dimension was wrong. I'm told that the same applies when you go up to 9 and above (doesn't affect me yet). As the charge from lbs for changing a chain is greater than the tool cost it's worth getting the right one.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Thanks for the info everyone. It turns out there isn't a great deal of secret knowledge.

I started out in the 70s using a nail punch and an old wheel nut. Happy days.
 
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