Bottom bracket removal tool help

[Ajax Bay]

I think I have given you erroneous advice (based on your images) (have edited my post above). Will your 20 spline tool not fit into the LHS cup? Since it's a cartridge, this will not be a locknut.
No threading issues - nearly all these are BSA 1.37 x 24 - and you know you need a 68mm (the link you shared was a 70). (It will NOT be "Italian" thread.) What's the frame?
For complete assurance get the current one out and its spec will be readable.
I am horrified by the prices (sorry). You have a lovely Ultegra chainset to match though.
BB-ES300 is another option.

 

[Cycleops]

When reassembling your cranks make sure you torque them correctly. There have been issues with the Octalink cranksets where this has not been adhered to and have come loose. Once this happens the soft alloy cranks become destroyed quite quickly by the splines making the cranks unusable. Octalink has now been discontinued by Shimano for this reason.

 

[Ajax Bay]

make sure you torque them correctly

For BB-ES300 https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/FC0002/DM-FC0002-16-ENG.pdf
Page 17 (35-50Nm)
For BB-5500 https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/si/1DG0C/SI-1DG0C-000-ENG.pdf
Same torque.

 

[Spacer]

Report: I removed, cleaned and put back the old BB. It was dirty but spun freely and no wobble. Perhaps the noise comes from the octalink connection- seems a very likely culprit. Also the RHS of the bottom bracket wasn't on so tight - so maybe that?

The rust inside may come form the small bolt holding the derailleur cable guide in place? the BB itself cleaned up pretty well.

Test ride this evening to see if it works.

Thanks all for help!!

 

[Spacer]

For BB-ES300 https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/FC0002/DM-FC0002-16-ENG.pdf
Page 17 (35-50Nm)
For BB-5500 https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/si/1DG0C/SI-1DG0C-000-ENG.pdf
Same torque.

Thanks for that..I know about the torque .... I dont have a powerful torque wrench - mine only goes up to 14.. I put them on very tight by sensation. I'll drop by a place that has the wrench to be sure. I am guessing it's ok to ride some short local rides in the meantime!

 

[Ajax Bay]

I haven't a torque spanner that does that high stuff either.
I suspect with everything cleaned up and grease on the threads and splines, and the cranks secure you may have banished your creak.
Maybe have a look and see if you can pick out the pseudo-seal on the LHS bearing, force in some grease and replace the seal. The LHS bearing has a harder life than the RHS one.

 

[Spacer]

I haven't a torque spanner that does that high stuff either.
I suspect with everything cleaned up and grease on the threads and splines, and the cranks secure you may have banished your creak.
Maybe have a look and see if you can pick out the pseudo-seal on the LHS bearing, force in some grease and replace the seal. The LHS bearing has a harder life than the RHS one.

That sounds like some deep voodoo you're proposing Ajax!!! : D

Yes I cleaned iit all up impeccably and greased and very slightly rocked it as I tightened the bolt to insure better seating. Otherwise I'll be on vacation in the south of France where the friendly village car repair guy many lend me a proper TW if I ply him with a bottle...

 

[Spacer]

I think I have given you erroneous advice (based on your images) (have edited my post above). Will your 20 spline tool not fit into the LHS cup? Since it's a cartridge, this will not be a locknut.
No threading issues - nearly all these are BSA 1.37 x 24 - and you know you need a 68mm (the link you shared was a 70). (It will NOT be "Italian" thread.) What's the frame?
For complete assurance get the current one out and its spec will be readable.
I am horrified by the prices (sorry). You have a lovely Ultegra chainset to match though.
BB-ES300 is another option.

All, good! I figured out about the spline tool, and have put back in the BB, so now I just need to borrow a TW to tighten correctly.

I have learned a lot on this forum. I know in a way that much of it can be figured out in youtube videos, but for some reason asking the question and getting advice makes the process A: more fun. B :more interesting C: more successful.

 

[Ajax Bay]

The torque needed for the BB is (iirc) 50-70Nm. Just tighten it tight as, like everyone else. @Cycleops was highlighting the torque required to screw the crank back on. Even then bear in mind these are metal to metal with no 'C plastic' to damage by overtightening. (Do you use a torque wrench to get 40Nm on your cassette lock ring? No, me neither.) Go ride!

 

[Smokin Joe]

I will remain a square tapered rider to the end of my days.

You and me both. All these variations on a simple and proven system that is easy to fit and just works seem to be more trouble than they're worth.

 

[scotsbikester]

All, good! I figured out about the spline tool, and have put back in the BB, so now I just need to borrow a TW to tighten correctly.

I have learned a lot on this forum. I know in a way that much of it can be figured out in youtube videos, but for some reason asking the question and getting advice makes the process A: more fun. B :more interesting C: more successful.

Remember the drive side cup is a left hand thread.

So IF you're going to use a torque wrench, remember that the vast majority of "clicker" type torque wrenches don't work in the anti-clockwise direction. They can drive the socket anti-clockwise, but they won't detect torque. I think Park's clicker torque wrench works both ways, but it's an expensive buy for something that will only be used on two components (RHS BB cup, LHS pedal). Though it is a good range for bike maintenance.

https://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-6-2?category=Torque Tools

I use a beam torque wrench for those sorts of things, as they work both ways.

PS - like helmets, everybody can make up their own mind about whether to use a torque wrench or not. I usually do use one.

 

[Ajax Bay]

As previously said, the torque required to put the cartridge BB in on the RHS with the 20-spline tool is tight tight: till it won't go in any further (lip against BB shell). A torque wrench is superfluous (both sides). The 35-50Nm measure is for the crank bolts (both screw in clockwise).

 

[Spacer]

As previously said, the torque required to put the cartridge BB in on the RHS with the 20-spline tool is tight tight: till it won't go in any further (lip against BB shell). A torque wrench is superfluous (both sides). The 35-50Nm measure is for the crank bolts (both screw in clockwise).

Woah! thanks for that!