Bottom bracket removal tool help

[Spacer]

Hi,

I want to service or replace my bottom bracket on an Ultegra crankset from year 2000. It's squeaking and the original, so 22 years old.
It may be hollowtech 2..can someone please let me know?

The bottom bracket shell width is 68mm.
NDS has a bearing cover with 8 notches and the diameter is 40mm. Other side is notched inside. My photo shows it, partially, with also the tool I think is meant to unscrew that.

Can someone please also tell me what tool I'd need to unscrew the NDS?
Any recommendations for a replacement BB? Thanks!

Peter

 

[fossyant]

It's a square taper cartridge, but you have an old style lock ring cup on the non-drive side. Go carefully with the non-drive side..

 

[Spacer]

I suppose it could be this, but I have triple chainrings, does that affect some specification- the axle length?
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/fr...sa/136938185/p?id_producte=7512756&country=fr

 

[fossyant]

Not Shimano spec though. I went from normal BB's to Cartridge when they came out 30 years ago. Still use the same tool to remove.

 

[fossyant]

I suppose it could be this, but I have triple chainrings, does that affect some specification- the axle length?
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/fr...sa/136938185/p?id_producte=7512756&country=fr

Octalink is another bag of poop. You need the non-drive side off first.

 

[Spacer]

It's a square taper cartridge, but you have an old style lock ring cup on the non-drive side. Go carefully with the non-drive side..

Thanks, So this means I'll need a new crankset if i want to change the BB to a modern one? I'd like to avoid that.

 

[fossyant]

Thanks, So this means I'll need a new crankset if i want to change the BB to a modern one? I'd like to avoid that.

No you don't, but you need to get the cranks off. Problem is, manufacturers can fit a third party BB, that an cause issues.

Is there a serial number on the inside of the crank arm ?

 

[Spacer]

No you don't, but you need to get the cranks off. Problem is, manufacturers can fit a third party BB, that an cause issues.

Is there a serial number on the inside of the crank arm ?

I need to remove the small two hole plate around the 8mm hex first(see first photos)? Then english threaded for the hex?

 

[Ajax Bay]

The OP (as said) has a square taper BB (not Hollowtech II).
Step 1: Unscrew the allen key bolt first (both sides).
Step 2: Remove both cranks with a crank puller (you don't have to remove the pedals).
Step 3: Using a C-spanner, remove the LHS lockring.
Step 4: unscrew the BB cup (left side). The BB will either be (a) a cartridge or (b) cup and cone with loose (ball) bearings.
If (a) we need to see what the RHS looks like - so take the crank off and let's have an image. You may well be right that it will unscrew (clockwise) with the 20 spline tool in image. The extracted cartridge BB may still have readable markings giving spindle length. The best Shimano replacement is a UN-300, BSA thread and 68mm (BB shell width).
If (b) the spindle will pull out (from the left) together with a number of steel balls. Take care; loose none; do so over a cloth to avoid loss. Count. Clean everything. No need to remove right side cup. Inspect spindle and cups (right hand one left in situ, so with a torch) for any pitting. The balls will likely be fine but most people replace (cost pennies). Plenty of grease and reassemble. Care to get the bearing pre-compression just mummy bear right (spins but no lateral movement), and fix with lockring (LHS, plenty of Nm).
Once you've done one, the next one is easier.
HTH

 

[Spacer]

The OP (as said) has a square taper BB (not Hollowtech II).
Step 1: Unscrew the allen key bolt first (both sides).
Step 2: Remove both cranks with a crank puller (you don't have to remove the pedals).
Step 3: Using a C-spanner, remove the LHS lockring.
Step 4: unscrew the BB cup (left side). The BB will either be (a) a cartridge or (b) cup and cone with loose (ball) bearings.
If (a) we need to see what the RHS looks like - so take the crank off and let's have an image. You may well be right that it will unscrew (clockwise) with the 20 spline tool in image. The extracted cartridge BB may still have readable markings giving spindle length. The best Shimano replacement is a UN-300, BSA thread and 68mm (BB shell width).
If (b) the spindle will pull out (from the left) together with a number of steel balls. Take care; loose none; do so over a cloth to avoid loss. Count. Clean everything. No need to remove right side cup. Inspect spindle and cups (right hand one left in situ, so with a torch) for any pitting. The balls will likely be fine but most people replace (cost pennies). Plenty of grease and reassemble. Care to get the bearing pre-compression just mummy bear right (spins but no lateral movement), and fix with lockring (LHS, plenty of Nm).
Once you've done one, the next one is easier.
HTH

Perfect. Thanks so much. If it can be simply maintained and re-used, all the better! La suite demain...

 

[Cycleops]

SQ BB's can go on for intergalactic mileages without maintenance so may just need lube. If it does need replacing it's a cheap job.
If there's little or no play felt at the crank arms the former will likely be all you'll need.

 

[Spacer]

SQ BB's can go on for intergalactic mileages without maintenance so may just need lube. If it does need replacing it's a cheap job.
If there's little or no play felt at the crank arms the former will likely be all you'll need.

Thanks- yes there is no play. Just a squeak when i pedal. I've rebuilt a few hubs and axles on cheap bikes, so I am comfortable with opening this BB up and dealing with bearings, cleaning, re-packing, etc..I'll do so later today and post a report back. This forum is great!

 

[Spacer]

As it turns out, i have an Octalink BB- likely V1 since the spline grooves are short. A research for the serial number of my cranks shows that to be the case: BB 6500 with 118.5mm spindle length.

1. I suppose that all need is to order a new one of those- EXCEPT that the 6500BB spec no longer seems available new- only 5500 ones are. Will that work with correct grooves and spindle length?
2. My assumption is that the squeak is best dealt with by replacing this original 22 year old BB.. is that reasonable?
3. Should I take apart the whole thing before ordering for any reason?

I only removed the LHS so far. I don't have the C spanner anyhow to remove the LHS lockring, I'll order all at once.

I found this one- which appears to have the shorter spine grooves, but oddly the tech description doesn't distinguish between octalink v1 and v2..
https://www.bike-discount.de/fr/shi...r=20071407-40176024&__delivery=9&__currency=1

thank you.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Yes. That's Octalink V1. It is not serviceable.
I pulled from my 'box' a 105 Octalink V1 double crankset I bought years ago, when I was ignorant of these things, but the BB which I bought with it is 110mm. (Offers welcome! I will remain a square tapered rider to the end of my days.)
You can use a screwdriver and mallet with due care as a substitute to remove that lockring.
Edit: The LHS cup should have a 20-spline interface (you have the tool already). It is not a lock nut. Same on the RHS.
Your LBS would have it out for you in minutes.

 

[Spacer]

It's a square taper cartridge, but you have an old style lock ring cup on the non-drive side. Go carefully with the non-drive side..

Yes. That's Octalink V1. It is not serviceable.
I pulled from my 'box' a 105 Octalink V1 double crankset I bought years ago, when I was ignorant of these things, but the BB which I bought with it is 110mm. (Offers welcome! I will remain a square tapered rider to the end of my days.)
You can use a screwdriver and mallet with due care as a substitute to remove that lockring.
Your LBS would have it out for you in minutes.
The replacement is likely to be a 20-spline fitting (both sides) so you already have that tool for installation.

Thanks - so a 5500 BB can replace my 6500 one? There wont be any threading issues with the frame?
Also the lockring can also be removed using 20 spline tool I have - I guess I'll take it all apart, clean it all out, and unless the BB seems woobly or doesn't spin freely, I will re-install to see if the clicking noise problem is solved- which is all I care about.