Blind bearing puller - dumb question

[rb58]

I need to change the bearings on my Ksyrium Elites. I know I can drift them out, but I don't want to risk damaging the hub and I don't want to wreck the old bearings as I want to use them as part of the home made press I'll use for installing the new ones. So I thought I'd buy a blind bearing puller set to get them out. They can be had off Fleabay for around £20. However, They are meant for cars, and I'm not sure what the sizes mean. When it says the collet is 10 - 14mm, does that mean it's suitable for a bearing with a central hole of between 10 and 14mm? I'm guessing it does, but can anyone confirm?

Cheers

 

[gbb]

Thats the way id read it rb. Just had a look.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Message the seller on fleabay with your question perhaps?

 

[rb58]

Message the seller on fleabay with your question perhaps?

I tried that. They couldn't help!! Maybe I asked the wrong question.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

I tried that. They couldn't help!! Maybe I asked the wrong question.

LoL - sounds like the Puller version of PC World.

How about Wikipedia?

 

[gbb]

Just thoughts...6001 bearings ?..ithink thats whats in my hubs, theyre 11mm bore so the 10 to 14 collet's fine.
The only slightly negative point is you're applying force to the inner ring of the bearing. This applies a sideways force against the balls, forcing them into the outer races as you drive them out, not brilliant because you can damage bearings that way. That said, the design of the collet applies that force equally so its not concentrated in one specific area...so not so bad.
If the bearings are going to be used in a low speed or light duty manner, you should be ok.

 

[rb58]

Thanks. The bearings are shot, so it doesn't matter too much if they get damaged removing them, although I'd prefer to get them out intact so I can use them as part of the press I'm going to make to put the new ones in with.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Just thoughts...6001 bearings ?..ithink thats whats in my hubs, theyre 11mm bore so the 10 to 14 collet's fine.
The only slightly negative point is you're applying force to the inner ring of the bearing. This applies a sideways force against the balls, forcing them into the outer races as you drive them out, not brilliant because you can damage bearings that way. That said, the design of the collet applies that force equally so its not concentrated in one specific area...so not so bad.
If the bearings are going to be used in a low speed or light duty manner, you should be ok.

Whilst that is an accurate description of what happens when using a collet-style puller, it doesn't matter, because he's pulling out the old bearings for replacement.

@rb58 Why not drift them in and out? In addition to the collet, you will need a slide hammer. Drifting is really easy and quick with a bit of practice. We had all the pullers and slide hammers in our workshop but all the mechanics chose drifting over pulling. It was faster and expertly done. Your plan to push the new bearings back using the old ones as a drift is problematic. Firstly, the old bearing may well get stuck because it needs to be marginally smaller than the new one to not press-fit itself into the seat. Secondly, it will push on the inside race as well, which is a problem as described as above. Ideally a drift should not contact the inner race at all.

Get a 5mm pin punch and drift from the inside to remove the bearings. To replace them, do the reverse, but place the punch on the outer race. That way no force is transmitted through the ball. Keep the punch at an angle so that the tip does not contact the seal. With a bit of practice it becomes a 20 second job.

 

[rb58]

Thanks @Yellow Saddle . I'm only concerned about using a punch and drifting them out in case I damage the hub casing, so thought a slide hammer might be safer. As for re-installing, the bearings fit pretty flush so not much likelihood of the old ones seating them selves as well.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks @Yellow Saddle . I'm only concerned about using a punch and drifting them out in case I damage the hub casing, so thought a slide hammer might be safer. As for re-installing, the bearings fit pretty flush so not much likelihood of the old ones seating them selves as well.

The trick with drifting using a punch is to only tap (hammer) once before inspecting the job. Don't hack away a couple of times and then look. Tap, look. Tap. Look. Also tap this side, then that side, this side, then that side. You only have to work in 180 degree opposites, no need to go right around. Three taps per side and the bearing is out or in. Slide hammers have their problems as well. It is a two-man job (not a big hassle) but not slide hammer threads are the same at the end. Later on you may want to buy another collet for it and then you find that the thread is different. A nice 150gram ball-peen hammer and punch is universal, cheap and versatile.
Another tip when drifting is to listen to the tone of the strike. As the bearing reaches the end of the recess (i.e. becomes fully seated) the tone of the strike changes pitch and goes higher. Bang bang bang ping. Job done.

Drifting is a skill worth learning if you have a bike with cartridge bearing hubs.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The trick with drifting using a punch is to only tap (hammer) once before inspecting the job. Don't hack away a couple of times and then look. Tap, look. Tap. Look. Also tap this side, then that side, this side, then that side. You only have to work in 180 degree opposites, no need to go right around. Three taps per side and the bearing is out or in. Slide hammers have their problems as well. It is a two-man job (not a big hassle) but not slide hammer threads are the same at the end. Later on you may want to buy another collet for it and then you find that the thread is different. A nice 150gram ball-peen hammer and punch is universal, cheap and versatile.
Another tip when drifting is to listen to the tone of the strike. As the bearing reaches the end of the recess (i.e. becomes fully seated) the tone of the strike changes pitch and goes higher. Bang bang bang ping. Job done.

Drifting is a skill worth learning if you have a bike with cartridge bearing hubs.

Oh, one more thing. You do this job seated, with the wheel on your lap. Legs slightly open to support the wheel by the rim in two opposite places. The bearing will then shoot out onto the floor.

 

[raleighnut]

I would have suggested using a drift too but @Yellow Saddle beat me to it, the one thing I'd change is to use a Brass drift but that is only cos I've got one.

 

[accountantpete]

I would also have a look at your freehub bearing and bushing whilst you are at it.

The freehub bearing is slightly smaller IIRC - you need to undo the locknut to access it I think.

The bushing also wears causing play to develop in the freehub mount.

 

[rb58]

Thanks. I plan to replace the bearing on the freehub side too. And I put a new freehub body on last year, so no play in the nylon bushing. It's definitely the bearings that at shot, even after I tried the 'in situ' service.

I've decided to drift them out and am ordering up the right size punch.

Thanks for all the tips!

 

[gbb]

Whilst that is an accurate description of what happens when using a collet-style puller, it doesn't matter, because he's pulling out the old bearings for replacement.

@rb58 Why not drift them in and out? In addition to the collet, you will need a slide hammer. Drifting is really easy and quick with a bit of practice. We had all the pullers and slide hammers in our workshop but all the mechanics chose drifting over pulling. It was faster and expertly done. Your plan to push the new bearings back using the old ones as a drift is problematic. Firstly, the old bearing may well get stuck because it needs to be marginally smaller than the new one to not press-fit itself into the seat. Secondly, it will push on the inside race as well, which is a problem as described as above. Ideally a drift should not contact the inner race at all.

Get a 5mm pin punch and drift from the inside to remove the bearings. To replace them, do the reverse, but place the punch on the outer race. That way no force is transmitted through the ball. Keep the punch at an angle so that the tip does not contact the seal. With a bit of practice it becomes a 20 second job.

OP did originally want to retain the old bearings for a job elsewhere .

TBF, even to those who fit bearings regularly, it can go wrong. On one of my wheelsets, I did manage to 'jar' a bearing. I didn't know until I spun the wheel when re-assembled...I could feel a very faint knock knock.. Place an ear on the saddle with the rear wheel (in my case) in the air and spin the wheel. The knock became far more identifyable that way.

Ironically. you can 'jar' a bearing so so easily...yet abuse another one and get away with it. A 3 phase motor at work developed a horrible noise and vibration. Strip, the fan end bearing housing had ovalled, the bearing could move in it and also had virtually no grease left in it. No spare bearing, no spare motor, production's waiting....a 'bodge' is called for. Oil seal off, clean bearing out with WD40, clean, insert grease, refit seal, araldite bearing into ovalled casing, re-assemble motor. It'll do, maybe a day, a week...a month, who knows. 3 months later. its still running smoothly.