- Location
- The TerrorVortex
I'm firmly of the if-it-works-it's-right school of thought.
If you've done that many tours on it, I wouldn't change a thing.
If you've done that many tours on it, I wouldn't change a thing.
Bike Fitting for Touring - Bodge vs Bespoke
- Thread starter badgerjockey
- Start date
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- Tags
- fitting
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HobbesOnTour
Guru
- Location
- España
I'd have said this too but I thought it was too sentimental!
RichardB
Slightly retro
- Location
- West Wales
Which is exactly why I have continued to cherish and improve my Raleigh Amazon. I couldn't think of selling it, even for ten times the fifty quid it might make on eBay, although in all honesty I don't need it. It hasn't done any memorable tours to faraway places, it's been round Holland on tour and been used for day rides and as a pub bike in France, but we share too much history. Selling it would be like drowning a puppy.
RichardB
Slightly retro
- Location
- West Wales
That Ridgeback is a handsome old thing. Looks very 'useful'.
mudsticks
Obviously an Aubergine
I used to tour, and general cycle on an oldish Giant hybrid.
Fitted me fine, not super fast, but even with light luggage, super fast isn't where touring is generally at
After twelve years and thousands of miles I thought I was due an upgrade.
After reading all the stuff on t'internet about gravel and adventure bike (I go about 80% on road 20% off) I was ready to drop some cash on a bespoke steed, from my lbs, who does builds.
However after discussing it all with them, we came to the conclusion that a more modern version of what I was already riding would probs suit better.
So I got anothe Giant hybrid, through the lbs - disc brakes (I do like) and bar ends etc.
So lbs passed up a chance to make some good money, but I got what I needed.
It does make it slightly more nickable, I guess. But the smoother ride (and better braking) are worth that slight extra worry..
I still hang all my scruffy luggage and washing off it when on tour, so maybe that helps deter would be thieves
Re the knees, sounds like overdoing it on the hills.
A stretching programme which involves full extension of the knee joint might help.
But that's better done under professional supervision if there is a problem arising.
Sounds like you've been to some grand places as well.
Fixability in out of the way locations is key.
As other have said, it's the travel, not the speed that's the thing for most of us, and having a trusty steed is vital for that
Fitted me fine, not super fast, but even with light luggage, super fast isn't where touring is generally at
After twelve years and thousands of miles I thought I was due an upgrade.
After reading all the stuff on t'internet about gravel and adventure bike (I go about 80% on road 20% off) I was ready to drop some cash on a bespoke steed, from my lbs, who does builds.
However after discussing it all with them, we came to the conclusion that a more modern version of what I was already riding would probs suit better.
So I got anothe Giant hybrid, through the lbs - disc brakes (I do like) and bar ends etc.
So lbs passed up a chance to make some good money, but I got what I needed.
It does make it slightly more nickable, I guess. But the smoother ride (and better braking) are worth that slight extra worry..
I still hang all my scruffy luggage and washing off it when on tour, so maybe that helps deter would be thieves
Re the knees, sounds like overdoing it on the hills.
A stretching programme which involves full extension of the knee joint might help.
But that's better done under professional supervision if there is a problem arising.
Sounds like you've been to some grand places as well.
Fixability in out of the way locations is key.
As other have said, it's the travel, not the speed that's the thing for most of us, and having a trusty steed is vital for that
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
I was given it as a frame and built it up to my own spec.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
(Edited as I remembered my Hewitt Cheviot)
There are five things to look for:
1. Seat angle. Most Taiwanese-built touring bikes have a seat angle of 73 degrees. If you are tall and/or use a Brooks saddle, you're going to have to seek out a seatpost with a lot of layback. 71 or 72 degrees is better.
2. Top tube length. There are formulae for this but taking it from an existing comfortable bike with a sensible stem length is the best way. It's not independent of seat angle.
3. Frame size. Too small, and you'll have the bars too low or you'll need a gawky riser stem. However, "frame size" is a bit meaningless with compact frames and manufacturers sometimes quote the actual seat tube length and sometimes a virtual size as if the top tube were horizontal.
4. Bottom bracket height (can be calculated from bottom bracket drop by subtracting the latter from the diameter of a wheel and tyre). You don't want more than 10 3/4" on a tourer and you'll want less than this if you're shorter than average.
5. Steering geometry. This should be nothing like racing geometry (which is 73-74 degrees with a 43-45mm fork offset). For a laden tourer to be rideable out of the saddle, the steering has to have far less lean steer, meaning more offset, especially if the head angle is slacker. Thorn tourers can feel horribly floppy unladen but they are well-behaved with a big load on. My Hewitt Cheviot was unrideable out of the saddle with camping gear on the back. My current Surly LHT is better, but not as good loaded as the Thorn. It is mostly ridden unladen though.
There are five things to look for:
1. Seat angle. Most Taiwanese-built touring bikes have a seat angle of 73 degrees. If you are tall and/or use a Brooks saddle, you're going to have to seek out a seatpost with a lot of layback. 71 or 72 degrees is better.
2. Top tube length. There are formulae for this but taking it from an existing comfortable bike with a sensible stem length is the best way. It's not independent of seat angle.
3. Frame size. Too small, and you'll have the bars too low or you'll need a gawky riser stem. However, "frame size" is a bit meaningless with compact frames and manufacturers sometimes quote the actual seat tube length and sometimes a virtual size as if the top tube were horizontal.
4. Bottom bracket height (can be calculated from bottom bracket drop by subtracting the latter from the diameter of a wheel and tyre). You don't want more than 10 3/4" on a tourer and you'll want less than this if you're shorter than average.
5. Steering geometry. This should be nothing like racing geometry (which is 73-74 degrees with a 43-45mm fork offset). For a laden tourer to be rideable out of the saddle, the steering has to have far less lean steer, meaning more offset, especially if the head angle is slacker. Thorn tourers can feel horribly floppy unladen but they are well-behaved with a big load on. My Hewitt Cheviot was unrideable out of the saddle with camping gear on the back. My current Surly LHT is better, but not as good loaded as the Thorn. It is mostly ridden unladen though.
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