Bearings - How do you pull yours?

[Yellow Saddle]

I'm surprised no one has answered this. I was hoping for a learning opportunity.

At the moment sealed bearings are in my "LBS Only" classification. I'm perfectly happy with cup and cone but don't have a clue what sealed bearings are all about so I don't touch them. Looks like some new tools might be required.

You would be surprised how many bike shops still use this method

Yup, because a parallel pin punch is fast, cheap, effective, universal across sizes and can install and remove bearings. Skilled mechanics prefer this method. The only place where you really need a blind bearing puller is on some MTB suspension bushes which are truly blind with no access from behind.

But please, lets stop calling cartridge bearings sealed bearings. A cartridge bearing can be sealed or unsealed or...even half-sealed. Cup and cone bearings can be found in sealed or unsealed too.

 

[Dogtrousers]

But please, lets stop calling cartridge bearings sealed bearings. A cartridge bearing can be sealed or unsealed or...even half-sealed. Cup and cone bearings can be found in sealed or unsealed too.

I stand corrected. I now know the correct name.

Still don't know anything else about them though

 

[chriswoody]

The only place where you really need a blind bearing puller is on some MTB suspension bushes

And also on bike hubs and freehub bodies where the preload tube prevents access to the back of the bearing. I have two wheels with hub bearings like this and it can also be seen on the wheels in the video I inked too.

I am curious @Yellow Saddle about your opinion on using a drift to remove cartridge bearings from hubs? My understanding and fear is that I don't have the skill to bring them out square and they twist, potentially causing damage to the softer hub body, is this an unfounded fear?

I just feel that using a blind bearing puller is better for an unskilled oaf like me who only occasionally will need to pull out bearings and would likely damage my hubs with an errant swing of the hammer or drift.

 

[gbb]

Yup, because a parallel pin punch is fast, cheap, effective, universal across sizes and can install and remove bearings. Skilled mechanics prefer this method. The only place where you really need a blind bearing puller is on some MTB suspension bushes which are truly blind with no access from behind.

But please, lets stop calling cartridge bearings sealed bearings. A cartridge bearing can be sealed or unsealed or...even half-sealed. Cup and cone bearings can be found in sealed or unsealed too.

I don't actually know why the term cartridge bearing prevails in the cycle industry. Having worked in engineering for 45 years plus, no one, but no one i ever met called them cartridge bearings. Its a bearing, the terminology can get specific (linear, deep groove ball, thrust etc etc) but in engineering, it's a bearing.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I stand corrected. I now know the correct name.

Still don't know anything else about them though

Ha ha....please spread the truth henceforth.

They're fascinating (cartridge bearings). Look it up. Websites like SKF's will have sascinating information sections and on some you can even order a little booklet.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I don't actually know why the term cartridge bearing prevails in the cycle industry. Having worked in engineering for 45 years plus, no one, but no one i ever met called them cartridge bearings. Its a bearing, the terminology can get specific (linear, deep groove ball, thrust etc etc) but in engineering, it's a bearing.

The cycling game is full of BS terms - alloy (for aluminium), cartridge bearings, carbon (for carbon fibre reinforced plastic) drive side (as opposed to right hand side and the even clunkier non-drive side) etc etc.

Yes a bearing is a bearing, but there's also plain bearings and within those two broad categtories (plain bearing and rolling element bearing, ther's a myriad of others. Terminology is important, it keeps us specific and understandable.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I don't actually know why the term cartridge bearing prevails in the cycle industry. Having worked in engineering for 45 years plus, no one, but no one i ever met called them cartridge bearings. Its a bearing, the terminology can get specific (linear, deep groove ball, thrust etc etc) but in engineering, it's a bearing.

It helps us understand - when someone says "how do I remove a bearing", it it becomes obvious if you state the type. In my experience, in the game, people talk ball bearing rather than just bearing.

 

[gbb]

And also on bike hubs and freehub bodies where the preload tube prevents access to the back of the bearing. I have two wheels with hub bearings like this and it can also be seen on the wheels in the video I inked too.

I am curious @Yellow Saddle about your opinion on using a drift to remove cartridge bearings from hubs? My understanding and fear is that I don't have the skill to bring them out square and they twist, potentially causing damage to the softer hub body, is this an unfounded fear?

I just feel that using a blind bearing puller is better for an unskilled oaf like me who only occasionally will need to pull out bearings and would likely damage my hubs with an errant swing of the hammer or drift.

I can't say how.many bearings ive extracted from bikes, gearboxes, hubs, industrial rollers etc etc and a couple things spring to mind.

Yes, of course they can get a little sideways during extraction if you're inattentive or ham fisted, but equally you can easily correct it with a smack on the opposite side. Same when installing.
It's also reasonably easy to damage a bearing if you're a bit ham fisted or unlucky.

95 percent of extracting is done with drifts in my case

But rocket science its not. Go careful and be attentive, equally don't pussy foot around, usually a wheel bearing will come out with one firm smack.

But if someone doesn't mind getting their wallet out and buying a proper extractor, it's doubtless safer overall.

 

[gbb]

It helps us understand - when someone says "how do I remove a bearing", it it becomes obvious if you state the type. In my experience, in the game, people talk ball bearing rather than just bearing.

TBF, i guess in engineering, we automatically know the bearing type, in cycling, folk don't have that more specific knowledge so do need something a little extra....

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I am curious @Yellow Saddle about your opinion on using a drift to remove cartridge bearings from hubs? My understanding and fear is that I don't have the skill to bring them out square and they twist, potentially causing damage to the softer hub body, is this an unfounded fear?

Good question but easy solution. When removing a (cartridge) bearing it is OK to tap (drift) on the inner race because the bearing is toast in anyway and drifting from the inner race is destructive. When replacing a bearing, I cannot think of a scenario where it is not possible to drift it from the outside race because that is always accessible when going in.

The central spacer tube also just moves aside when you lever a tool in there.After the first tap on the inner race, the spacer is loose and you can shift it left - right- left - right - left - right until the bearing falls out.

Of course they can twist, but you shouldn't allow that to happen. Tap softly left, then right, then left.... until it pops out. These taps with your little hammer are soft and the punch alternates between two 180-degree separated positions on the bearing. Going back in with a new bearing is particular satisfying because the sound changes when the bearing hits home. It goes tap- tap - tap - tap - tap - tick!

When the tone changes, you stop, it is home.

Take an old wheel and practice. It is best to place the wheel on your lap with youb rseated and your legs spread to support the rim. My shop apron catches the dropped bearing and it doesn't even fall on the floor. Perfect technique leaves the seal undamaged. If your punch hits the seal it will deform. Beer helps to keep the hand steady and of course to celebrate success.

Using a pin punch is the equivalent of using a dovetail hand saw to cut dovetails over using a big heavy noisy router on an expensive bulky jig.

Sometimes the joy comes from repairing things elegantly.

 

[classic33]

Not just the bicycle industry.
Cartridge bearings.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Not just the bicycle industry.
Cartridge bearings.

Even though that definition comes from a bearing supplier, it is inaccurate. Here's the definiton from the link you supplied:

"Cartridge bearings consist of an inner and outer race, a retainer holding the balls, and rubber seals to keep the lubricant in and contaminants out. Cartridge bearings are then mounted in the cartridge bearing housings by pressing them into a bore."

As I said, they may have no seals whatsoever, such as those running in oil baths in engines etc. Further, the seal could be rubber (contact) or steel (non contact).

 

[Fastpedaller]

Using a piece of steel with a 90 degree bend in the end and an 8mm hole through it as a puller, an expanding bolt like this may do the job. 10 for less than £6.
https://www.toolstation.com/shield-anchor-loose-bolt/p53883

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Using a piece of steel with a 90 degree bend in the end and an 8mm hole through it as a puller, an expanding bolt like this may do the job. 10 for less than £6.
https://www.toolstation.com/shield-anchor-loose-bolt/p53883

You can also burn it out with a plasma cutter or sploit the hub on an anvil with a cold chisel. Let's stick to elegant and effective.

 

[chriswoody]

The central spacer tube also just moves aside when you lever a tool in there

So this is the scenario I have, the picture below is of my SRAM XD freehub from my gravel bike. The outer cartridge bearing clearly visible in the photo below needs replacing. Now the pre load tube behind this is completely immovable and preventing any access to the reverse face of the bearing. No tool is going to move this tube without damaging it.

Now for the avoidance of all doubt, I'm not being argumentative here, just trying to illustrate that I believe this scenario is more common these days. I also have a similar scenario on the mountain bike.

Now for me this is no problem, my cheap and cheerful €35 blind bearing puller will easily remove this and the inner bearing behind the preload tube. It's for this precise scenario though that I bought the blind bearing puller.

I'm just curious though to add to the already interesting and informative discussion taking place. So is there a tool or a way to drift this cartridge bearing out without any risk of damage to the preload tube or freehub body?