Bar end or thumb shifters?

[boydj]

Though you have the bosses for downtube shifters, you may well find that bar-end shifters are more convenient / easier to use. I have bar-ends on an old 531 frame (Dia-Compe friction) and they work well. Friction is no problem to get used to and it gives you the option of using wheels with different speed cassettes, which I found handy for commuting when a wheel swap could be required at short notice.

 

[DaveyA]

I wouldn't be using the bike on a regular basis. I just want to be able to use it for the odd ride now and again. I have had the frame for ages now and want to see it as a complete bike instead of hanging forlornly in the garage, it deserves to be built up. I don't really want to fit clamp-on levers to the down tube. I have all the other parts I need hopefully! I'll find some bar end shifters and give them a go. Looking forward to a new experience if nothing else, I might even find I like them.
Thanks for the input folks.

I will post some pictures when I get it finished. It is a nice frame and has a bit of an interesting history.

 

[DaveyA]

I have found some new 8 speed Dura Ace bar ends for a good price. Just wondering which rear mech might work ok with these to have indexed changes? It's a 6 speed block, thinking it should be possible to set the stops and adjustment to get it to work with maybe an older 8 or 9 speed mech. I imagine 10 and 11 speed mech might not match.

 

[KneesUp]

I use my 8 speeds with two different wheels - one has a 7 speed and the other is 8 speed. It's fine with both because the spacing is the same, you just have to remember when the 7 speed is on not to change all the way down as there is no cog there. I could adjust the limit screws, of course. If I could be bothered.

The spacing on 6, 10 and 11 is different to 7/8 IIRC, but you could just put it in friction mode and use it with anything.

 

[DaveyA]

Yes, suppose I could try it out friction only until I got used to using the levers. Would be nice to have index though as they are nice shifters. Just for arguments sake, if I eventually fitted a 7 speed block any idea which rear mech would be suitable?

 

[KneesUp]

Depends on the cassette I guess, and how 'original' you want to keep it. I have a Acera long cage one because it was cheap and does the job. It's in now was aesthetically pleasing though! I've a late 80s 105 short cage on my road bike (officially 7 speed, works fine as an 8 speed, would no doubt do 6 speed) which looks nicer to my eyes, but might not to others. It has a much smaller range than the Acera too.

What cassette/freewheel are you using?

 

[DaveyA]

It's a screw on block, 14-28 iirc. Loads of rear mechs on eBay, just been browsing. Not too bothered about upper end stuff, if it's cheap and works I'll be happy.

 

[hennbell]

I like the clean look of frame shifters, keeps the cables looking clean.

 

[TheDoctor]

If it's 7 speed Shimano and 14-28, then just about any 9-or-fewer speed Shimano rear mech will do it. 8 speed levers will index 7 speed perfectly, as noted upthread.

 

[GuyBoden]

I'd guess, that if you spend a lot of time on the drops, bar ends shifters would be good.

Alan Boden in the 1960's, on the drops, using bar end shifters for TT.

 

[DaveyA]

If it's 7 speed Shimano and 14-28, then just about any 9-or-fewer speed Shimano rear mech will do it. 8 speed levers will index 7 speed perfectly, as noted upthread.

It's a 14-28 Shimano 6 speed.

 

[raleighnut]

It's a 14-28 Shimano 6 speed.

These look a bargain to me, less than I paid for my set and they can be used friction or 8-9 indexed.
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjg29_Z24vTAhXKL8AKHROPALIQFghqMAA&url=http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-dura-ace-7700-9-speed-bar-end-lever-set/&usg=AFQjCNFWWYbgxyGOqkfWN4jeuy3EaFZnqQ

EDIT- as you have a 6 speed on the back I would take it that it's 126mm dropout spacing, a 130mm will fit easy-peasy if you decide to update the bike at all and then an 8 speed cassette will index with these levers, mine does (with a 10speed 105 rear mech using the 'alternative. cable clamping position that alters the 'pull ratio')

 

[DaveyA]

Already tried the 130mm thing and it didn't go well. The mudguard bridge pinged away from the chain stay on one side. Just going to stick with 126mm and use these old wheels. Don't want to spend more money getting the frame repaired etc.
That's a very good price for those levers. Ribble have Ultegra 8 speed for £33.

 

[TheDoctor]

6 speed, it's probably easier to friction-shift inna old-skool stylee

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

Shimano bar-ends are indexed but you can switch the indexing off and they're then friction levers.

Also, you'll never need to adjust them... I had Shim bar ends set to indexed, after a while the cable tension changed so I changed them to friction. And it was back to old school gear changing! My overall feeling about it is that it does what you tell it to do rather than it does what you set it up to tell it what to do. First option is one step less and it's done by feel and by ear.

On the general question: bar end shifters are great if you're a sit in the saddle person, if you're always ready to stand on the pedals, changing gears whilst holding onto the bars becomes tricky and may involve having to sit down to take the weight off your hands to get one of them (always the right hand, in my case) to the shifter.