Attaching SKS Mudguards to my Croix de Fer - Quality Control

[Gez73]

The set comes with a two piece adapter that you attach to the bridge and then the guard to the adapter if you don't have a horizontal thread on the frame. I have some spares if you require them. Always have had the correctly aligned thread on my frames.

How did you fasten the rear chainstay bridge?

 

[Arjimlad]

I found that spacers left the stays very slack and wobbly, so, lacking front rack mounts, deployed an adjustable rear light fitting around the front fork which led to shorter, stiffer, stays.

 

[MichaelW2]

The set comes with a two piece adapter that you attach to the bridge and then the guard to the adapter if you don't have a horizontal thread on the frame. I have some spares if you require them. Always have had the correctly aligned thread on my frames.

I tried using the adapter, but found that a much better solution was to drill a small hole 1.5-2cm from the tip and thread a small ziptie around the bridge and under the tip. It is secure, quiet and very durable.
The tip of ESGE models used to be formed to fit between the chainstays. I take a dremel to the SKS ones and fashion a small indent for each stay with enough material to grip firmly.

 

[Globalti]

That's exactly what I had to do front and rear on my Tricross.

 

[Bodhbh]

Looks fine here. I've both bent the stays and just used the midblade rack mount to avoid fouling the disc calipers in the past, either hold the guards fine.

 

[I like Skol]

Sorry SalisburyTeacher but I would only go out in the dark with mudguard stays shaped like that

I faced a similar problem when fitting SKS guards to my hybrid and found that by doing away with the silly plastic piece they supply and bolting straight through the metal eye I could achieve a very tidy and flush fit with just a tiny bend in one stay.

The calliper can still be removed easily without the stays getting in the way and the fastening is very secure with no rattling. In 5 years since they were fitted the only fettling needed was when some of the rivets rotted out that hold the metal bridge to the plastic guard.

Oh, and please @Cold Snail sort your front quick release out, that is really bugging me

 

[MichaelW2]

doing away with the silly plastic piece they supply and bolting straight through the metal eye

The plastic of SKS 'guards is very tough. If you get a stick or other stuff caught between tyre and 'guard, it may jamb the wheel suddenly. The plastic doberry is a safety quick-release. When the guard gets jammed, the stays release and the wheel can continue rolling. Mine have activated twice in 20 years.

 

[flake99please]

My front stays are attached to the bolts half way down the fork legs which works fine too.

Ditto. The only issue I had was with the front derailleur mechanism resting against the rear guard when I put the chain on the outer ring. A broad half round file soon fixed the problem.

 

[Ihatehills]

The plastic of SKS 'guards is very tough. If you get a stick or other stuff caught between tyre and 'guard, it may jamb the wheel suddenly. The plastic doberry is a safety quick-release. When the guard gets jammed, the stays release and the wheel can continue rolling. Mine have activated twice in 20 years.

This.
I was particularly glad of this feature when something got jammed in my wheel this winter, I never even saw what it was but am convinced Tha it would have damaged something if the mudguard stay hadn't released

 

[TheSalisburyTeacher]

My front setup is like that, below the brakes. Works well.
If you have snipped the stays to length, file them round. The plastic caps come off and the sharp edge is a menace to man and trouser.
How did you fasten the rear chainstay bridge?

Attached the rear chain stay bridge using the metal adaptors that came in the pack. It clipped over the bridge and to be safe I also secured it with one of the bolts supplied. It shouldn't be going anywhere.