Any idea what bike this is ?

[Drago]

Id say 50s or early 60s. Forks are wrong for a Raleigh of that era.

Get the date code from the SA hub. Once we have the year that narrows down the hunt for the make/model.

 

[Cycleops]

Check out MonkeyShred on YouTube, he's done a few videos on restoration of these bikes, both full and oily rag.

 

[Cuchilo]

Looks like it’s all been covered with a layer of grease , cleaning up nicely

 

[Cycleops]

So that's a 1985 hub, replaced at some time?

 

[Cuchilo]

must have been . I guess thats why the gears still work .
There is a lid just under the writing . Is that for oil or grease ? I know nothing about old bikes

 

[Cycleops]

Yes, for oil.

 

[midlife]

 

[Cuchilo]

Any special oil ?

 

[Cycleops]

SAE 20 I believe is recommended.

Here's what guru Sheldon Brown has to say:

Lubrication
Only thin good quality oil should be used for the lubrication of Sturmey-Archer hubs. (Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is my favorite for this application --SCB) (Automotive automatic transmission fluid also is good, and inexpensive -- John Allen). Thick oils or grease must not be used, but when a hub is dismantled a small amount of grease or vaseline may be put on the ball races only. (Note that this information contradicts other information from Sturmey-Archer, to put grease only on the labyrinth seals. The point of this advice is to keep grease away from the pawls -- John Allen)
The ideal rule for lubrication should be 'a little but often'. Two or three drops of oil every week will maintain the hub in first class running order. A new hub should always be oiled before use because the oil put in at the factory may have evaporated in the interval between leaving the factory and being put to use on the road.
TCW (Tricoaster) hubs need more oil than other hubs because in their case the oil is used not only for lubrication but also to dissipate heat generated by the brake. (that is, the oil burns up -- John Allen).

 

[Cuchilo]

Found a couple of markings

 

[midlife]

Interesting stamp on the chainstay next to the dropout

 

[Cuchilo]

I think its RV 4454 and what looks like a crown on the BB

 

[Cuchilo]

Gave the headlamp a wash with scrunched up tin foil .

 

[mjr]

Those wing nuts alone date it to 50s/60s.

I think I see herons on the chainring, so when were Lentons made?

But it was a working bike, hub probably replaced, possibly forks and bars too, so it may be that is a replacement chainring too and the bike's true identity is unknowable unless someone recognises the frame number meaning.