Another New One

[Gert Lush]

Hello!

As I said in my introduction I have just started as a postman and have almost straight away suffered some feet and ankle pain. I haven't been to the doctor or anything because I think it's just because they aren't used to doing 6-8miles a day. This has led me to stop jogging for the time being as I just don't want to keep battering my feet in and out of work but wanting to keep up the exercise, I figured getting a bike would be a good idea.

So that's exactly what I did! Checked out eBay and saw a Raleigh Vitesse in Bristol. Bid on it and won! £70.04.

It's vintage and I knew that but I'm not too worried, I just wanted a introduction for not too much and if I get on well I could always use the Cycle2Work scheme.

Here's the blurb that was written on eBay.

Vintage road bike in relatively good condition. A few age related scrapes and some rust to brake calliper bolts as pictured. Aero brake levers in black. Sachs gear shifters. Indexed rear shifting with Shimano 7 speed rear mech on 8 speed cassette on Alex rims. 14 speed. Seat post and stem both free. A nice ready to ride lightweight tourer or racer.

I've taken that to mean it has 8 gears at the back but the rear derailer only uses seven? Is that right?

I adjusted the seat then went out for a quick 20min ride which showed me I also needed to adjust the handlebar height. Went out for a second time but after 10mins I had to walk home as I'd developed a puncture. What I think happened was it had a slow puncture which worsened as I rode. The back tyre is also pretty bald so I need a inner tube and a new tyre for that. I also plan on getting new tape for the handlebars if that doesn't cost too much.

Not a huge fan of the gear shifting but I think I'll get used to it and I've researched changing them for integrated shifters but that'll cost more than the bike itself. On the theme of gears I noticed one of the gears is a bit dodgy, is there a way of fixing this? Oh and the wheels don't seem to spin quite true and the back wheel rubs ever so slightly on the brake, can this be fixed?

But the moment you'll all have been waiting for, pictures!





There's an album here: http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/MikeWatkinsBass/embed/slideshow/Raleigh Vitesse
(Most have been stolen from eBay but I'll change them as soon as I can take some proper photos outside when it's not raining)

If you got through that whole book, I thank you!

Mike

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Ok......from the beginning, yes you have eight gear sprockets but the derailleur was only designed for 7 so may not have enough movement to cover the full 8 gears. As your gears are friction shifters rather than indexed, it is possible that by adjusting the high and low screws on the rear derailleur you can cover all 8.When you describe one gear as being a bit dodgy, it may be to do with the High and Low screws as above - but more information will help.
If the puncture is slow it may be easy to repair it and save a few £ rather than buying a new inner tube (but I would advise repairing it and then using it as a spare to take with you when cycling)
Bar taping is an easy task (YouTube is your friend) and tape can be bought for anywhere between £5 and £50. I buy imitation cork tape off eBay from China - it costs about £4, comes in a good length and I find it as good as stuff that would cost 3x as much here. (But it does take a few weeks to arrive)
Wheels not spinning quite true probably means they have slight buckles in them - truing wheels is easier than it looks (read Mickle's post at the top of the mechanical page) Ideally a truing stand should be used, but you can true reasonably well by using the brake blocks as your reference point or by fixing a cable tie so that it runs in line with the rim (cut to length so it just touches the rim and make sure the wheel is straight in the frame/fork first)
Worth just checking that there is no lateral play in the axles - which could also cause a wheel to not run true. The wheel should spin freely and smoothly without undue noise and with no sideways movement.
Enjoy riding and learning how to maintain your bicycle.

 

[Ticktockmy]

I note you have the Front QR lever pointing foreward, I would suggest you have the lever pointing to the rear, as if it should get caught on something when you are riding it could release itself.

 

[machew]

Rule #26 // Make your bike photogenic.
When photographing your bike, gussy her up properly for the camera. Some parameters are firm: valve stems at 6 o’clock. Cranks never at 90 or 180 degrees. Others are at your discretion, though the accepted practices include putting the chain on the big dog, and no bidons in the cages.


Rule #41 // Quick-release levers are to be carefully positioned.
Quick release angle on the front skewer shall be an upward angle which tightens just aft of the fork and the rear quick release shall tighten at an angle that bisects angle between the seat and chain stays. It is acceptable, however, to have the rear quick release tighten upward, just aft of the seat stay, when the construction of the frame or its dropouts will not allow the preferred positioning. For Time Trial bikes only, quick releases may be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike. This is for maximum aero effect.

 

[Cyclist33]

Hello!

As I said in my introduction I have just started as a postman and have almost straight away suffered some feet and ankle pain. I haven't been to the doctor or anything because I think it's just because they aren't used to doing 6-8miles a day. This has led me to stop jogging for the time being as I just don't want to keep battering my feet in and out of work but wanting to keep up the exercise, I figured getting a bike would be a good idea.

So that's exactly what I did! Checked out eBay and saw a Raleigh Vitesse in Bristol. Bid on it and won! £70.04.

It's vintage and I knew that but I'm not too worried, I just wanted a introduction for not too much and if I get on well I could always use the Cycle2Work scheme.

Here's the blurb that was written on eBay.

Vintage road bike in relatively good condition. A few age related scrapes and some rust to brake calliper bolts as pictured. Aero brake levers in black. Sachs gear shifters. Indexed rear shifting with Shimano 7 speed rear mech on 8 speed cassette on Alex rims. 14 speed. Seat post and stem both free. A nice ready to ride lightweight tourer or racer.

I've taken that to mean it has 8 gears at the back but the rear derailer only uses seven? Is that right?

I adjusted the seat then went out for a quick 20min ride which showed me I also needed to adjust the handlebar height. Went out for a second time but after 10mins I had to walk home as I'd developed a puncture. What I think happened was it had a slow puncture which worsened as I rode. The back tyre is also pretty bald so I need a inner tube and a new tyre for that. I also plan on getting new tape for the handlebars if that doesn't cost too much.

Not a huge fan of the gear shifting but I think I'll get used to it and I've researched changing them for integrated shifters but that'll cost more than the bike itself. On the theme of gears I noticed one of the gears is a bit dodgy, is there a way of fixing this? Oh and the wheels don't seem to spin quite true and the back wheel rubs ever so slightly on the brake, can this be fixed?

But the moment you'll all have been waiting for, pictures!





There's an album here: http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/MikeWatkinsBass/embed/slideshow/Raleigh Vitesse
(Most have been stolen from eBay but I'll change them as soon as I can take some proper photos outside when it's not raining)

If you got through that whole book, I thank you!

Mike

That's a pretty looking thing. How tall art thou? I think the saddle could be higher...

Ignore the chuff about quick release position. It only matters that the wheel is fixed firmly. Although they do look odd pointing downwards.

 

[Cyclist33]

I note you have the Front QR lever pointing foreward, I would suggest you have the lever pointing to the rear, as if it should get caught on something when you are riding it could release itself.

Only if it were too loose in the first place... But in any case I can't think of a scenario road riding where the front qr lever could get caught in something.

 

[Ticktockmy]

Only if it were too loose in the first place... But in any case I can't think of a scenario road riding where the front qr lever could get caught in something.

Yes you are quite right, however there is always Sods Law, you never know when something magical might happen, so pointing the QR lever to the rear might be one less problem waiting to happen. Just a little more best practise.

 

[mjr]

Yes you are quite right, however there is always Sods Law, you never know when something magical might happen, so pointing the QR lever to the rear might be one less problem waiting to happen. Just a little more best practise.

Sod's Law says then something hurtling past and making a glancing blow will catch the QR lever and open it!

Point them vertical. There's a chance that the bars or rack will protect them from opening but basically if something lands on you, you've probably got bigger problems than a wheel releasing!

 

[Cyclist33]

Sod's Law says then something hurtling past and making a glancing blow will catch the QR lever and open it!

Point them vertical. There's a chance that the bars or rack will protect them from opening but basically if something lands on you, you've probably got bigger problems than a wheel releasing!

But since the QR levers are on the left, they're very unlikely to be hurtled past. Least not in the UK anyway.

Besides, that would be the least of your worries!

 

[mjr]

But since the QR levers are on the left, they're very unlikely to be hurtled past. Least not in the UK anyway.

Have you not ridden much in the UK? Some motorists and especially some cyclists will try to pass on the left if there's a hint of enough gap to do so. Turning right from carriageways can sometimes be a balancing act between deterring passing on the left if there's not really room, and being far enough right to be seen far enough back in the line of motorists and make the turn.

 

[PhilDawson8270]

Even if the QR opens the wheel won't fall out. They will need to unscrew first, then you will need to go over something that lifts your wheel off the ground.

And if you hit something hard enough to pull the QR open, I'm going to assume you're not likely to be still on the bike

 

[Cyclist33]

Have you not ridden much in the UK? Some motorists and especially some cyclists will try to pass on the left if there's a hint of enough gap to do so. Turning right from carriageways can sometimes be a balancing act between deterring passing on the left if there's not really room, and being far enough right to be seen far enough back in the line of motorists and make the turn.

Not so often, though I concede there have been times! In general I ride in a secondary position fairly close to the kerb, because despite the various cycling codes of practice I think cars are faster than bikes by default and should have priority where it's safe for them to do so.

Still and all, if something comes up your left hand side and clips you, the chances of it unhinging the QR lever as opposed to say, the handlebar, the wheel rim or the rider, are virtually nil, and if it did happen and the QR lever was pointing backwards as suggested, that would be *more* likely to be knocked open than if it were pointing forwards.

 

[mjr]

Not so often, though I concede there have been times! In general I ride in a secondary position fairly close to the kerb, because despite the various cycling codes of practice I think cars are faster than bikes by default and should have priority where it's safe for them to do so.

I understand the feeling and it's part of the reason why I use cycle tracks even when there's no safety or speed benefit to me, but most of those codes aren't pulled out of people's backsides. They are there for good reason. Please ride central in narrow lanes, else others will overtake with dangerously little clearance, far less than 1.5m, and sooner or later one will probably sideswipe you.

if it did happen and the QR lever was pointing backwards as suggested, that would be *more* likely to be knocked open than if it were pointing forwards.

Maybe but the choice isn't backwards or forwards.

 

[Cyclist33]

First comment about the QR lever position on this thread:

"I note you have the Front QR lever pointing foreward, I would suggest you have the lever pointing to the rear, as if it should get caught on something when you are riding it could release itself."

I can understand that subsequent advice has been in the vertical plane but either pointing up or down wouldn't affect the likelihood of the lever getting released if knocked, or indeed knocked in the first place!!

 

[Cyclist33]

I understand the feeling and it's part of the reason why I use cycle tracks even when there's no safety or speed benefit to me, but most of those codes aren't pulled out of people's backsides. They are there for good reason. Please ride central in narrow lanes, else others will overtake with dangerously little clearance, far less than 1.5m, and sooner or later one will probably sideswipe you.

Maybe but the choice isn't backwards or forwards.

Round here, they just sideswipe you if you take primary anyway. I've had several close passes in the last week alone. And you never know if the person you yell at and stick a finger up to as they drive off isn't some meathead with a dagger.