Obviously I wasn't clear enough, as many of you lovely people have given me CYCLING advice ;-) I've concluded that Amsterdam is NOT
interested in bikes, in a similar way that London does not have museums of motoring, or pedestrianism, or tube trains. Bikes are just one of the ways they get about, there is no cycle-sport tradition here [not sure where that becomes a thing, but as the Amstel Gold race runs around Valkenburg, I guess it's more of a Limburg province thing].
But as it happened, our hotel had hire-bikes ( a loooong way from free), so I managed two early morning spins before the grown-ups stirred.
... riding under the Rijksmuseum and doing a lap of the Vondelpark
YES! We were staying almost by the museum, so that was a natural route to take. The ground-level tunnel through the Rijk' was a joy, and VondelPark was nice (Storks!). I headed thru there out of the centre (taking in the Rembrandt Park for one), and a bit of proper countryside canal-path. Which was nice. (I did
consider riding into the centre to get the full authentic experience - it's very different to the riding I've done round other newer Dutch towns, with more space for bike paths, and just generally less manic/touristy.)
I will upload some pics later. In summary, I can totally recommend a (non-cycling) trip to Amshterdaam, especially by train. (the central station is perhaps the nicest located city station I've been to). And even to a non-gardener, the tulip festival was lovely (helped by gorgeous weather, admittedly... )