Aldi cycling offer from 30th September

[Blue Hills]

Regarding the charging I hadn't noticed this either, although I've already charged it a couple of times from a mobile phone charger and it seems OK - no idea of the amps though. I can vouch for it as a 'daytime' running light as I had it on for about 6 hours last Sunday on the lowest flashing setting and it was still going strong when I'd done.

Done some more checking - seems I will be OK for my main intended use of it for touring, recharging from an Anker Powerbank.

I found this in the Q&As for the Anker 20100 powerbank.

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Q: My device charges at 1 Amp, will the PowerCore 20100 Portable Charger’s 4.8 Amp output harm it?

A: No, the powercore will only supply the maximum charge current allowed by your device.

So I should be fine.

Assume that the thing will be OK charging from the Chromebook USB port as well?

When at home will try to charge it from a charger that I know only kicks out 1 amp.

Aldi could have been clearer about this and offered advice - assume it's just the usual legalese back-covering you get in so many product instructions these days.

The mount for attaching its to the saddle seat rails is neat - not a fan of seatpost mounted lights - allows me to also, when not using it, still fasten a seatpack under the rails with its own light attached to its light loop.

Haven't used it outside yet but rather pleased with it..

 

[bruce1530]

But a bit concerned on reading the small print that it should only be recharged from a charger pumping out 1 amp. Many of my chargers pump out 2 amps. Including my two Anker powerbanks.

Shouldn’t be a problem. Your “2 amp charger” means it can supply UP TO 2 amps.

Think about the 13 Amp wall sockets in your house. They’re quite happy supplying the full 13A if you plug in a kettle or electric fire, but are equally happy supplying milliamps if you plug in a small electronic device.

 

[Blue Hills]

That's what I had assumed to be honest, despite Aldi's guide.

Quote:

"If Using a USB mains charger please check that the voltage is not greater than 5V and the output is not greater than 1.0A"

Does a device that only wants 1 amp have some sort of pin arrangement that tells the charging thingy that's all it needs?

 

[night cycler]

Shouldn’t be a problem. Your “2 amp charger” means it can supply UP TO 2 amps.

Think about the 13 Amp wall sockets in your house. They’re quite happy supplying the full 13A if you plug in a kettle or electric fire, but are equally happy supplying milliamps if you plug in a small electronic device.

But I would have thought that the 13 amp wall sockets are only equally happy providing that there is the correct transformer between wall socket and device. I am not an expert on this, and this is only my opinion. Hopefully an electrician on here will clarify? At under 15 quid I am willing to try a 2 amp charger.

The Lamps are CREE brand too.

The lights have apparently sold out online but the 3 Aldi stores in my area all have stock .

 

[Blue Hills]

Oh, also bought the simple folding bike stand (for simple twiddling, just to get the rear wheel up for gear fiddling) - haven't used it yet but have put it together - looks convincing.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

The blurb probably mentions the 1 amp limit because a higher charging rate might overheat and damage the battery. In their simplest form, battery charging devices deliver a set voltage, and the current flow depends purely on the voltage difference and internal resistance of the load placed across it's output. Charging a dead battery using jump leads is a good example.
More sophisticated devices regulate their output on both current and voltage parameters. For those who have ever tinkered with vintage cars, cheap everyday cars were often fitted with a basic Lucas RB106 voltage-regulated dynamo control box which could cause a lot of battery gassing. More expensive and luxury vehicles might have an RB340 current-voltage regulated control box, which gave better charging and longer battery life if correctly adjusted. As always, it comes down to cost.

 

[Blue Hills]

thanks skipdiver, though must admit to not entirely understand it

Will take care to only recharge the thing from a home charger I know to be 1 amp, my laptop's USB port, or the aforementioned Anker Powerbank - last will only be on tour.

edit - checked the 7day shop smart AA/AAA battery charger I have for touring with a single USB outlet - turns out that is just 1 amp, so sorted.

Used the light last night clipped to the saddle rails - like it - slightly doubtful about durability of the mounts compared to cateye's quality things so will have to be gentle with them.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

thanks skipdiver, though must admit to not entirely understand it

Sophisticated devices will reduce their charge rate if the current flow exceeds their set limit, even if the output voltage of the charger is not at it's limit. Simple devices just pump out a fixed voltage, irrespective of the state of charge of the load.
If the battery you are charging is very flat, a lot of current can flow into it at first with a crude charger, until it's internal voltage gradually comes up.
When your bike tyre is really flat, at first it's dead easy to pump the air in. As the tyre gets harder, the rate at which you can inflate it falls away.

 

[night cycler]

The plastic hook on the rubber band just popped off after I tried it on the bike. I managed to find it again but without the hook it is useless. You cant use zipties because it has to be recharged.

View attachment 432601

I've been to Aldi and bought this item.

The front light seems to be ok, but the modes are only different levels of brightnness. There is no flashing mode.

The rear light has 3 modes which includes flashing modes.However, the bracket for the rear light is an extremely bad design and poor quality. The whole rubber bracket detached from the light while I was fitting to the bike.

I taking mine back for a full refund.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I've been to Aldi and bought this item.
The front light seems to be ok, but the modes are only different levels of brightnness. There is no flashing mode.
The rear light has 3 modes which includes flashing modes.However, the bracket for the rear light is an extremely bad design and poor quality. The whole rubber bracket detached from the light while I was fitting to the bike..

Buy the Crivit USB rechargeable lighting set from Lidl when available. I have two of them and am very pleased with the output and hours between charges. Rear light is continuous, as is the front, but with 3 brightness levels. I can't see why anyone wants flashing front lights - they aren't exactly very good for seeing where you are going. On the back I always have two lights anyway, the Lidl one on steady plus a cheapo AAA battery-powered flasher.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

I can't see why anyone wants flashing front lights

Allegedly it's to do with how the eye perceives them, a flashing light draws the attention more than a steady light, also some say as all other vehicles will be steady a flashing one again you're identify as a bike.

 

[Blue Hills]

Allegedly it's to do with how the eye perceives them, a flashing light draws the attention more than a steady light, also some say as all other vehicles will be steady a flashing one again you're identify as a bike.

Agree with this. In town I use just a moderate powered flasher - better than crazily trying to blind a driver with an uber powerful front, which might also make them think you are something other than a bike. In the country at night even though I use a powerful but not mad light to see by I also use a flasher for the same reasons. A small cateye using a single AA suffices.

 

[Blue Hills]

Buy the Crivit USB rechargeable lighting set from Lidl when available. I have two of them and am very pleased with the output and hours between charges. Rear light is continuous, as is the front, but with 3 brightness levels. I can't see why anyone wants flashing front lights - they aren't exactly very good for seeing where you are going. On the back I always have two lights anyway, the Lidl one on steady plus a cheapo AAA battery-powered flasher.

Agree with you on the Lidl lights skipdiver. Recently rode through the night with just the Lidl USB light and the Lidl battery light from before. All fine. Will pm you info on a rear you might be interested in.

 

[night cycler]

Allegedly it's to do with how the eye perceives them, a flashing light draws the attention more than a steady light, also some say as all other vehicles will be steady a flashing one again you're identify as a bike.

I totally agree with this. I always have a flashing light on while on the road-day or night.

 

[mjr]

Allegedly it's to do with how the eye perceives them, a flashing light draws the attention more than a steady light, also some say as all other vehicles will be steady a flashing one again you're identify as a bike.

But attempting to draw more attention is a fark thy neighbour act against all other road users near you and being easily identified as a cyclist attracts road rage from a small but too big group of nobbers.

More importantly IMO, if it doesn't flash, the light needs a BS or K~ or equivalent marking to be legal as a sole light on roads. Does it have one?