Advice on chain cleaning in prep for wax based dry lube?

[ebikeerwidnes]

I heard that white spirit and the like was too aggressive and took everything off
including the lube inside the links and lubing the pins - which normally doesn;t get dirty
Then the normal lubrication stuff doesn;t replace it as well

dunno if it is true - but it was on the WWW so it must be!!!!

 

[PedallingNowhereSlowly]

I think the concern is hydrogen embrittlement, which can result in a snapped chain?

I'm not a metallurgist though.

 

[scotsbikester]

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but:

You seem concerned about getting the chain super clean. That's going to be very hard with it on the bike.

Any dirt on the chainrings/cassette is going to get put back onto the chain as you rotate it.

Any cleaner/degreaser you use may well make its way into the wheel bearings, the derailleur jockey wheel bearings, the derailleur pivots, and perhaps even the bottom bracket bearings. The more cleaner/degreaser you use, or the stronger it is, in an attempt to get the chain "really" clean, the greater the likelihood of damage to bearings. You're trying to degrease the chain, but grease (or oil) is exactly what you want to keep in all the aforementioned bearings.

Again, this probably isn't what you want to hear, but I would learn how to get the chain off. Assuming it's got some sort of quick-link/masterlink then ideally you need two pliers - one opens the quicklink, the other closes it. They seem to be ~£10 each. There are other methods involving string and suchlike (google it) but I couldn't be bothered. Removing and replacing chains is a fairly basic bit of bike maintenance which is well worth knowing. And if you ever break your chain it might well be a lot faster to put a new one on yourself. Or if you put new sprockets/chainrings on and need to change chain length.

Also one way of reducing drivetrain wear is to rotate chains.

Somebody up thread said that quicklinks are only meant to be used once. It may vary by brand, but the KMC 9 speed chains I use come with a quicklink that KMC specifically says can be opened/closed three times.

With the chain off the bike you can soak it in the degreaser of your choice, agitate it, leave it overnight, or whatever. You can get it super clean that way.

I understand your desire not to buy unnecessary kit. I have both quicklink pliers, and one of the "plastic chain cleaning gadgets" that you refer to. I've used the pliers lots. Whereas I've used the chain cleaning gadget exactly once, and will probably never use it again. It was a filthy disgusting mess which resulted in all sorts of gunk over me and the patio. Do yourself a favour, buy pliers, clean the chain in an old jam jar, and forget the "magic cleaning bath".

 

[screenman]

I heard that white spirit and the like was too aggressive and took everything off
including the lube inside the links and lubing the pins - which normally doesn;t get dirty
Then the normal lubrication stuff doesn;t replace it as well

dunno if it is true - but it was on the WWW so it must be!!!!

Not something that has given me any problems over many years and thousands of miles.

 

[richardfm]

Assuming it's got some sort of quick-link/masterlink then ideally you need two pliers - one opens the quicklink, the other closes it. They seem to be ~£10 each.

Park Tool make quick link pliers that open and close the link, so only one tool needed. That said they probably cost as much as two separate tools from other sources.

 

[Sloth]

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but:

You seem concerned about getting the chain super clean. That's going to be very hard with it on the bike.

Any dirt on the chainrings/cassette is going to get put back onto the chain as you rotate it.

Any cleaner/degreaser you use may well make its way into the wheel bearings, the derailleur jockey wheel bearings, the derailleur pivots, and perhaps even the bottom bracket bearings. The more cleaner/degreaser you use, or the stronger it is, in an attempt to get the chain "really" clean, the greater the likelihood of damage to bearings. You're trying to degrease the chain, but grease (or oil) is exactly what you want to keep in all the aforementioned bearings.

Again, this probably isn't what you want to hear, but I would learn how to get the chain off. Assuming it's got some sort of quick-link/masterlink then ideally you need two pliers - one opens the quicklink, the other closes it. They seem to be ~£10 each. There are other methods involving string and suchlike (google it) but I couldn't be bothered. Removing and replacing chains is a fairly basic bit of bike maintenance which is well worth knowing. And if you ever break your chain it might well be a lot faster to put a new one on yourself. Or if you put new sprockets/chainrings on and need to change chain length.

Also one way of reducing drivetrain wear is to rotate chains.

Somebody up thread said that quicklinks are only meant to be used once. It may vary by brand, but the KMC 9 speed chains I use come with a quicklink that KMC specifically says can be opened/closed three times.

With the chain off the bike you can soak it in the degreaser of your choice, agitate it, leave it overnight, or whatever. You can get it super clean that way.

I understand your desire not to buy unnecessary kit. I have both quicklink pliers, and one of the "plastic chain cleaning gadgets" that you refer to. I've used the pliers lots. Whereas I've used the chain cleaning gadget exactly once, and will probably never use it again. It was a filthy disgusting mess which resulted in all sorts of gunk over me and the patio. Do yourself a favour, buy pliers, clean the chain in an old jam jar, and forget the "magic cleaning bath".

I really appreciate your considered reply and advice.
I may well invest in the pliers and learn to remove/re-fit the chain at some point. As you say it is a basic routine of bike maintenance that I need to 'embrace'.
However, I'm committed now, the bits are on their way, and I intend to wrap cling film/rags etc. around any parts (hubs/brakes/BB etc.) that I don't want the degreaser on, and will put a plastic sheet under the bike, which will certainly not be on the patio when I do it.
If the chain cleaning gizmo turns out to be a pile of crap, then for what it cost I will simply either bin it, or leave it in the garage to gather dust.
On reflection perhaps it would have been simpler to remove the chain but as they say, 'every day is a school day'.

 

[Sloth]

Just found this…

View: https://youtu.be/6s1LR63ixqE?si=AYoA0b7pr6Y83sUC

 

[Sloth]

And another/alternative method…

View: https://youtu.be/LvlMlGDq3Ak?si=pz2VJrrL9eYknSpq

 

[scotsbikester]

Park Tool make quick link pliers that open and close the link, so only one tool needed. That said they probably cost as much as two separate tools from other sources.

Damn, I didn't know that. It would save me having to remember which is which. For some reason I ALWAYS seem to pick up the wrong ones, whereas probability says it should only be half the time.

 

[silva]

I think wax is in the bicycle world what placebo is in the medical.

 

[PaulSB]

I really appreciate your considered reply and advice.
I may well invest in the pliers and learn to remove/re-fit the chain at some point. As you say it is a basic routine of bike maintenance that I need to 'embrace'.
However, I'm committed now, the bits are on their way, and I intend to wrap cling film/rags etc. around any parts (hubs/brakes/BB etc.) that I don't want the degreaser on, and will put a plastic sheet under the bike, which will certainly not be on the patio when I do it.
If the chain cleaning gizmo turns out to be a pile of crap, then for what it cost I will simply either bin it, or leave it in the garage to gather dust.
On reflection perhaps it would have been simpler to remove the chain but as they say, 'every day is a school day'.

You'd have to be extremely careless and use far too much degreaser to have a problem with splashing these areas. I never worry about it other than being careful. I've never really got on with the chain cleaning gizmos but that aside I do exactly as you're planning to.

I agree with the point there is a risk of transferring gunk from the jockey wheels, cassette etc. on to the chain.This is why I clean the whole drive chain area in tandem. Once you have everything clean there is very little gunk around to transfer.

I agree removing the chain and soaking is better by far. I do this very, very occasionally. Why? It's a task I struggle to do and I would always use a new chain link. Expensive. I wouldn't trust a used one.

Let's be practical. Realistic. Unless one removes everything, soak, clean and dry everything there is always going to be some crap floating about. Start off as clean as you can and it will be fine.

For me the two crucial elements are:

Get the lube precisely on to each roller and let it soak inside so it disappears. The less wax/lube/oil there is on the outer surfaces the less dirt will be attracted​

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After a ride thoroughly wipe your chain with an old waxy/oil cotton cloth. This will remove anything that's on the surface. Give the chain rings and jockey wheels a quick wipe.​

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Even after a long gravel ride, 70-80 miles, I find this will be effective.

One point I may not have mentioned. Once the wax is dry I put a very small amount on my finger and run this as a very light smear over the outer surface. Just makes me feel I've done something to protect these. Probably pointless! 🤣

The only downside to the whole technique is on very wet rides Squirt will wash off over say 50 - 60 miles. You'll need to dry the chain carefully and wax again.