Advice on chain cleaning in prep for wax based dry lube?

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Sloth

Senior Member
I recently had my bike converted from a 2x 105 to a 1x GRX.
The LBS did a good job but also lightly lubed the new chain with what they describe as standard dry weather lube.
Now I meant to ask them to degrease the new chain from the factory grease, and to use a dry lube of my choice (perhaps ‘Squirt’ or similar).
I forgot though and by the time I remembered it was too late.
So my question is, is there a way to degrease and clean the chain enough to be suitably clean, in preparation for applying a wax based dry lube?
I have neither the tools or know how to remove the chain so that’s out. It must be with chain on.
I’d prefer to keep it cheap and simple if possible, without having to buy specialist tools or kit that will likely be seldom if ever used again.
I mean, just how clean does the chain need to be anyway for applying a wax based dry lube?
For example, can I just use some foaming degreaser on the drive train/chain and scrub, followed by another scrub, or even running the chain through one of those small plastic chain cleaning gadgets, that you fill with degreaser and have little brushes inside?
I can’t believe what a ball ache this is to just lube my chain.
Thanks in advance.
 
I have a cheap one of those plastic things you fill with degreaser (washing up liquid) and has brushes inside

I just fill it up and attach it to the chain (which is a bit of a 3d puzzle!) and wind the pedals so the chain goes through it
then refill it with clean water and run it through again after wiping it with a clean rag (I keep old towels for that)
seems to clean it pretty well - if it is really bad I might do the degreaser a couple of time as the state of the liquid after a run through is amazing!

Oh - and for degreaser I have a big bottle from Screwfix - I did see some specialist stuff in a shop once but it was stupidly expensive and I can;t see it making any difference!
 

PaulSB

Squire
@Sloth as I said in your earlier thread I use Squirt. My routine is this, without removing the chain:
  • Apply degreaser to chain, cassette, chain rings and jockey wheels
  • Scrub with a brush
  • Wash off with cold water
  • Wipe down with cotton rag - I just find cotton is best.
  • Once dry apply two coats of Squirt. One drop on to the upper surface of each roller. That's on the bottom chain
  • Wipe off any surplus when dry
After a ride I wipe the chain with a cotton cloth. I use the same cloth repeatedly. I think the build up of waxy/oily grease on the cloth helps in wiping off road debris, dirt etc.
 
OP
OP
Sloth

Sloth

Senior Member
I have a cheap one of those plastic things you fill with degreaser (washing up liquid) and has brushes inside

I just fill it up and attach it to the chain (which is a bit of a 3d puzzle!) and wind the pedals so the chain goes through it
then refill it with clean water and run it through again after wiping it with a clean rag (I keep old towels for that)
seems to clean it pretty well - if it is really bad I might do the degreaser a couple of time as the state of the liquid after a run through is amazing!

Oh - and for degreaser I have a big bottle from Screwfix - I did see some specialist stuff in a shop once but it was stupidly expensive and I can;t see it making any difference!

Thanks, can I ask if you use neat washing up liquid in the gizmo, or do you dilute/in what ratio?
 
Thanks, can I ask if you use neat washing up liquid in the gizmo, or do you dilute/in what ratio?

I use the screwfix stuff now which comes with instruction
but I originally use washing up liquid - quite dilute but more concentrated than I would use for dishes
It needs a decent amount of water to work properly - so a small squirt in the device then fill up with water is fine

just make sure it all gets rinsed off when it is clean as it is quite sticky
I put a bucket so that half the chain dangles in it and wind the chain through it through a cloth
 
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Sloth

Sloth

Senior Member
@Sloth as I said in your earlier thread I use Squirt. My routine is this, without removing the chain:
  • Apply degreaser to chain, cassette, chain rings and jockey wheels
  • Scrub with a brush
  • Wash off with cold water
  • Wipe down with cotton rag - I just find cotton is best.
  • Once dry apply two coats of Squirt. One drop on to the upper surface of each roller. That's on the bottom chain
  • Wipe off any surplus when dry
After a ride I wipe the chain with a cotton cloth. I use the same cloth repeatedly. I think the build up of waxy/oily grease on the cloth helps in wiping off road debris, dirt etc.

Thanks Paul, yeah I appreciate you helping in both threads. This one is more about the chain prep than the actual lube, thus the sort of duplication/cross-over of threads.

Do you find that your method removes the grit and crap from inside the chain (rather than just what you can see on the surface) and does that really matter anyway when applying 'Squirt'?
The reason I ask that is that, as I mentioned before, I used 'Squirt' on what was supposed to be a cleaned/degreased (of factory grease), by a LBS, brand new chain, and ended up with a black sludge all around my jockey wheels. I don't ride in bad weather, and don't do high mileage.
I'd obviously like to avoid that if possible, and YT tutorials and reviews seem to indicate that it shouldn't happen if the chain is correctly/fully degreased before application.
It has been suggested that the chain not being fully degreased (by the LBS as claimed) may be the cause of my sludge issue?
After all, a clean drive train is supposed to be one of the main advantages/selling points of wax/dry lubes isn't it?
Anyway, that's why I'm trying to make sure I get it right this time.
 

PaulSB

Squire
No worries on the duplication, I understood why. I think your problem with sludge was a result of the chain not being properly cleaned by the LBS.

Generally my method keeps the whole chain, inner and outer surfaces clean. After decreasing I check the inner surfaces of the links. If I spot some dirt I push a bit of cloth through which usually clears it.

It's inevitable gunk will appear in places. I find the cassette and inner faces of the chain rings are the most likely. The chain ring is easy to wipe. The cassette I occasionally clean with strips of rag. Tear a rag into strips 2-3cm wide. Thread between the cogs and pull back and forth in the same manner as one would use a bath towel to dry one's back.

This all sounds desperately fiddly and time consuming. In my experience once you start with a properly clean drive chain all the routine stuff is quick and easy to do. I have a couple of friends who use hot wax, they find the same is true with their method.
 
No worries on the duplication, I understood why. I think your problem with sludge was a result of the chain not being properly cleaned by the LBS.

Generally my method keeps the whole chain, inner and outer surfaces clean. After decreasing I check the inner surfaces of the links. If I spot some dirt I push a bit of cloth through which usually clears it.

It's inevitable gunk will appear in places. I find the cassette and inner faces of the chain rings are the most likely. The chain ring is easy to wipe. The cassette I occasionally clean with strips of rag. Tear a rag into strips 2-3cm wide. Thread between the cogs and pull back and forth in the same manner as one would use a bath towel to dry one's back.

This all sounds desperately fiddly and time consuming. In my experience once you start with a properly clean drive chain all the routine stuff is quick and easy to do. I have a couple of friends who use hot wax, they find the same is true with their method.

I have a brush with long bristles that is good for the cassette with a bit of degreaser on it
then rinse off and re lube

but then I just make it up as I go on - so other advise may be better
 

PaulSB

Squire
I have a brush with long bristles that is good for the cassette with a bit of degreaser on it
then rinse off and re lube

but then I just make it up as I go on - so other advise may be better

Yep, me too. I got the impression Sloth wanted to keep it simple so decided not to mention buying brushes!!! 😃

Both work.
 
Has the chain not got a quick link?

Personally I'd remove the chain (with quick link pliers). Drop it in a bottle with about 20 ml of CeramicSpeed UFO Clean Drivetrain Cleaner. Shake it up vigorously for about 30 seconds. Pull the chain out of the bottle (an old spoke is ideal for this, or a straightened wire coat hanger with an elbow bend at the end), thoroughly rinse it and then dry it off with a clean microfibre cloth and a hot air gun.

The drive train cleaner is expensive, but I've never found anything as good at removing factory grease that doesn't involve an ultrasonic cleaner. I find if I use two bottles, each with 20 ml in, I can clean several chains before the 'clean' drive train cleaner used for the second degreasing becomes the dirty drive train cleaner used for the second degreasing.

Also much easier to clean the cassette and chainrings without a chain in situ. Especially with a 1x drive train.

The quick links are supposed to be single use, but so long as they come off and go back on with a reassuring snap, I'd still use them.

I'm still trialling immersive waxing with multiple chains in rotation, but thus far I'm inclined to recommend it. Took about 15 minutes to thoroughly clean my bike, accounting for removing the chain, rear wheel, covering the rear rotor with an old carrier bag to prevent contamination from cleaning the cassette and putting the whole lot back together afterwards. (30 minutes if including getting the tools/bike out and putting them away again afterwards).
 
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Sloth

Sloth

Senior Member
Well I've order some 'Fuze' degreaser (1ltr), a cheap plastic chain cleaning/bath/rotating brushes type thingy c/w additional hand held brushes, and a 1ltr bottle of 'Peatys' spray on foaming degreaser.
That should do it, in fact it will bloomin' well have to!
 

screenman

Legendary Member
Well I've order some 'Fuze' degreaser (1ltr), a cheap plastic chain cleaning/bath/rotating brushes type thingy c/w additional hand held brushes, and a 1ltr bottle of 'Peatys' spray on foaming degreaser.
That should do it, in fact it will bloomin' well have to!

White spirit would have done it just as well. Mines comes out super clean in just a couple of runs through the machine, I use engine oil on my chain and ride off road a lot, so it has some work to do.
 
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