Advice on Braking Technique before I come a cropper !

[HLaB]

spence, Better brake blocks help but I find technique is just as, if not more important; I would hold off in splashing the cash unless you really want too.

 

[peanut]

Looking at the calipers, the aforementioned Promax RC459, there is an awful lot of flex and movement after the blocks contact the rims. Is this normal for this type of setup.

Spence you have basically hit the nail on the head. Road bikes have been saddled with piss poor brake caliper design for the past 25 years. They are all basically the same design and the reason they do not brake well is down to 1] flexing of the caliper and 2] hard brake pads.

Back in 1975 road bike brakes were generally centre pull weinmann which is basically the same design as cross bikes. The harder you pull the harder they brake. Coupled with very soft rubber brake blocks and those old bikes stopped brilliant in all weathers.

Modern brake pads are a very hard composition which are designed primarily to wear out your Alu rims . its worth trying some soft pads

If you want exceptional braking you need cross bike centre pull calipers or disks.

 

[RedBike]

If you want exceptional braking you need cross bike centre pull calipers or disks.

My cross bikes brakes are absolutely terrible compared to the winter road bike. The summer bikes in a different league again.

I used to have Avid BB7 road discs on a cyclo-x bike. They wern't as good as the Summer bikes Record calipers in the dry. They were an improvement in the wet though. The record takes 2/3 wheel revolutions to 'dry' the rim before the brakes will bite with their full strength. The discs are relatively uneffected by the wet weather. (They used to squeel like buggery but they still worked well).

Disc are invaluable on off-road bikes and come into their own in wet muddy conditions. But imo for road race bikes the weight penatly of a steel disc just completely out-weighes the small wet weather braking advantage.

I've also found the flex isn't present in higher end calipers.

 

[spence]

Thanks for the input chaps.

OK so worth trying some different blocks first before upgrading. What do I need to know???

I understand the differences and usage situations for standard (organic) and sintered disk pads. What constitutes a soft(er) block??

With disk pads I stick with the OEM (Hope/Shimano) or at a push EBC. I've found the other brands (Fibrax etc) not the same quality and have been badly burnt with the really cheap e-bay stuff. What are the good and bad brands??

Thanks again.
spence

 

[Fab Foodie]

Thanks for the input chaps.

OK so worth trying some different blocks first before upgrading. What do I need to know???

I understand the differences and usage situations for standard (organic) and sintered disk pads. What constitutes a soft(er) block??

What are the good and bad brands??

Thanks again.
spence

Koolstop Salmon for the front brake (and black at the back if your current pads need replacing). Cheap as chips and very effective. These assume that you have Shimano type holders though. You may need to search t'internet for other types.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/K...gra~105_Pair_Of_Cartridge_Inserts/5300005952/