Adjusting/Lubing Tiagra : Any info please?

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RSV_Ecosse

Senior Member
Had my Pinarello FP1 for a couple of months now and despite the rubbish weather I've managed to put a fair few miles on it.

It's never had the gears adjusted since the day I picked it up at my LBS. Bloke said the cables etc would need adjusting after a few hundred miles probably and said to bring it back in if they wanted me to check it out.

Really want to know how to do it myself though - can't be that difficult?.

Not too bad when it comes to technically minded stuff, I've been taking motorcycles to bits ( and sometimes even putting them back together again!! ) for years.

I read somewhere there is a Shimano guide you can download but haven't found it yet, looked on the Shimano website but it just seems to be .pdf's of part sheets. It's a double compact that's on the FP1 if that makes any difference to the adjustment process?.

Noticed sometimes that once I've shifted gear, there's a sort of rattling noise that I can eventually get rid of by shifting back out of the rattly gear and then back into it again, especially on the higher/bigger gears. Doesn't happen all the time only now and again every couple of days. Other than that, it shifts smoothly enough, I generally clean and lube everything ( at least what I can see exposed, component wise ) after each ride with TF2 spray.

So - basic Tiagra adjustment process : Tips please ladies and gents?.

Also, in general, how do I go about lubing my cables?. Read in Cycling Plus something about putting the front on the big cog and the back on the big one too, then releasing the cables and exposing the cable inner, but I've no idea how to do this. Lost, I am. ;)
 
Location
Llandudno
It helps if you've got a workstand or turbo to put the bike in as you need it upright to do it properly.
Change down to the smallest (highest) gear. The shifter inner lever should not be able to travel any further. Then change up one at a time using the outer lever. The chain should shift cleanly to the next cog.
If you're getting the rattling noise the mech is not sitting directly above the cog teeth. Use the barrel adjuster on the inside of the STI shifter (in line with the cable) to adjust it until the noise disappears.
Then repeat with each gear. Its very much trial and error to be honest.
There should be enough adjustment in the barrel adjusters without having to disconnect the inner cable.
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
cheade hulme is kinda right.

Presuming the dead stop on the mech has not moved, shift the chain onto the smallest sprocket (No 1). The cable should still be tight, unlike the old friction shifters.

WATCH OUT for weather corrosion on the cable adjuster at the mech end.

This is the ONLY use for WD40.

The cable tension adjuster on the mech changes the position of the No 2 relative to the No 1 position ( smallest cog ).

Once the No 2 is adjusted, the others will fall into alighnment because the handlebar shifter is manufactured to give the correct movement.


If you have any queries, go to Shimano's website - Tech documents.
 
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