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Kempstonian
Has the memory of a goldfish
- Location
- Bedford
People today are spoilt! I used to race a steel bike with a single chainring & just 5 gears and I survived! Come to think of it, most others people did too.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Kempstonian
Has the memory of a goldfish
- Location
- Bedford
lol... I was actually thinking of that sketch as I typed my last post!
I could have just said "Double clangers are for wimps!"
Pumpkin the robot
Guru
I bought a Battaglin frame new in the early 90's and built a bike up with it. I still have the frame and a few years ago I had it powder coated (I wish I had not bothered as the paint was not that bad and they removed the chrome on the rear stay when they shot blasted it) I then rebuilt it using mmore modern equipment (dura ace 7800) and fitted spinergy wheels.
I like the bike as it looks now, and I prefer the shifters on the hoods to the old down tube shifters, but I rarely ride the bike. It just does not compare to my modern stuff.
I guess you have to ask yourself what you really want from the bike before you buy a frame. Do you want something to restore to as new condition? Do you want it to have period correct parts? Will you ride it or just sit and look at it (as I do with my Battaglin) All these decisions will have an influence on what you need to buy to start out. Sometimes things just evolve and that is good, but I think it helps if you have an idea of what you want to do to start off with.
Anyway, here is my Battaglin, I often just sit looking at it for ages!
I like the bike as it looks now, and I prefer the shifters on the hoods to the old down tube shifters, but I rarely ride the bike. It just does not compare to my modern stuff.
I guess you have to ask yourself what you really want from the bike before you buy a frame. Do you want something to restore to as new condition? Do you want it to have period correct parts? Will you ride it or just sit and look at it (as I do with my Battaglin) All these decisions will have an influence on what you need to buy to start out. Sometimes things just evolve and that is good, but I think it helps if you have an idea of what you want to do to start off with.
Anyway, here is my Battaglin, I often just sit looking at it for ages!
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
@Pumpkin the robot that is a nice looking bike and I can see why you sit and look at it
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Yep, real men use triples.lol... I was actually thinking of that sketch as I typed my last post!
I could have just said "Double clangers are for wimps!"
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
Unless the OP has either unusually short or unusually long legs, then at a height of 6ft the optimum frame size is likely to be 23 1/2", which tends to result in a visually appealing bike without silly amounts of seatpost sticking out.
In reality, a frame an inch or so either side of optimal will still be perfectly rideable, but may or may not be less comfortable depending on body proportions. A smaller frame will facilitate a more arse-up, head-down riding stance if that's your thing (it certainly isn't mine!), whereas a slightly over-large frame will also result in a higher minimum bar height due to the taller head tube. None of that sloping top tube malarkey muddying the waters when it comes to sizing, the length of the seat tube pretty much governs the height range of the bars as well as the saddle.
I must confess to being a fan of Reynolds steel tubing frames, as every one I've ever tried has been a good ride. That doesn't necessarily mean a gas-pipe frame will ride badly though, more a case that anyone going to the expense of using Reynolds tubing will have probably tried harder to design a good frame, because the typical customer for a Reynolds bike was an enthusiast who would actually care, not just someone who regards bikes as cheap transport hacks. Don't reject hi-tensile frames out of hand though; some people will pay silly money for a tidy Dawes Galaxy - mainly as it's well known to be 531, yet they would turn their nose up at a Dawes Shadow because it's "only hi-tensile" - yet both frames have absolutely identical 72 degree "Touring" geometry! The most significant difference between butted and plain-gauge frames is weight.
In reality, a frame an inch or so either side of optimal will still be perfectly rideable, but may or may not be less comfortable depending on body proportions. A smaller frame will facilitate a more arse-up, head-down riding stance if that's your thing (it certainly isn't mine!), whereas a slightly over-large frame will also result in a higher minimum bar height due to the taller head tube. None of that sloping top tube malarkey muddying the waters when it comes to sizing, the length of the seat tube pretty much governs the height range of the bars as well as the saddle.
I must confess to being a fan of Reynolds steel tubing frames, as every one I've ever tried has been a good ride. That doesn't necessarily mean a gas-pipe frame will ride badly though, more a case that anyone going to the expense of using Reynolds tubing will have probably tried harder to design a good frame, because the typical customer for a Reynolds bike was an enthusiast who would actually care, not just someone who regards bikes as cheap transport hacks. Don't reject hi-tensile frames out of hand though; some people will pay silly money for a tidy Dawes Galaxy - mainly as it's well known to be 531, yet they would turn their nose up at a Dawes Shadow because it's "only hi-tensile" - yet both frames have absolutely identical 72 degree "Touring" geometry! The most significant difference between butted and plain-gauge frames is weight.
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mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
Decent singles can easily lock the wheels with modern pads. They're just fiddlier to set up and keep adjusted. I've just spent the week nosediving down double digit gradients on mine. BBB Techstop blue pads.
No struggle up hills on vintage gearing. Just a nice leisurely walk. The huge saddlebag is a clue I'm not racing
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Aye, this one is 'Hi-Ten'
Decent singles can easily lock the wheels with modern pads. They're just fiddlier to set up and keep adjusted. I've just spent the week nosediving down double digit gradients on mine. BBB Techstop blue pads.
No struggle up hills on vintage gearing. Just a nice leisurely walk. The huge saddlebag is a clue I'm not racing
Again yep
£20- I hope that was you
Unfortunately not, I've been out all day and only just got in so missed out
It does look like the sort of bargain that I'm looking for though so thanks for the message! I'll keep my eyes peeled on eBay 
Illaveago
Guru
- Location
- Chippenham,Wiltshire.
Aa
You should have contacted me . As my name suggests. I'll have a go at anything !
Oh! Erm.... a few +1
I took the Claud Butler frame to the scrap man and came back with an almost pristine Challenge Spectre BMX for £20! It only needed an innertube in the back wheel and I already had one salvaged from another freebie wheel from the same guy!
You should have contacted me . As my name suggests. I'll have a go at anything !
Kempstonian
Has the memory of a goldfish
- Location
- Bedford
Do you mean attempt a repair of the frame? I did consider it but a new seat tube would be the only way and it was a later CB, so probably not worth the expense. If it had been a 1960s classic with fancy lugs I probably would have repaired it.Aa
You should have contacted me . As my name suggests. I'll have a go at anything !
