531 v alloy
- Thread starter mattsccm
- Start date
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RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
Can I have it when you go?
And can I have it after you?
Ladies and gents, an orderly queue please.
Fab Foodie
hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
- Location
- Kirton, Devon.
And can I have it after you?
Ladies and gents, an orderly queue please.
Course you can
threebikesmcginty
Corn Fed Hick...
- Location
- ...on the slake
Fab Foodie said:Whereabouts
It was the reverse situation IIRC - I offered, as any gentleman would, to relieve you of your Holdsworth!
Main reason for sale is the TT length. it was part of a batch the Outdoor Ed dept boss at College organised for 3 years. every possible body length was sent off and the main use requested. As I was still a young and fit 20 year old in '83 I asked for something racey. the TT is about 56cm and my knackered wrists with a touch of arthritis just finds it all a bit stretched. If it was a inch shorter I wouldn't even think about it. I had a Kaffenbach that was shorter and that was better, albeit not so nice. Still dithering really
Ti would be nice but too pricey. Don't see carbon lasting 30 years and I suppose not alloy either.
Now if I could just locate an old college mate who had a shorter version I would be sorted. Thing is he was living on a canal boat when I last saw him 15 years ago and now thinks I am trying to kill him! Dope head.
Wanted then , a 531c Competition. 52cm TT
Ti would be nice but too pricey. Don't see carbon lasting 30 years and I suppose not alloy either.
Now if I could just locate an old college mate who had a shorter version I would be sorted. Thing is he was living on a canal boat when I last saw him 15 years ago and now thinks I am trying to kill him! Dope head.
Wanted then , a 531c Competition. 52cm TT
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
Couldn't you just buy a shorter stem?
Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
Could you try a shorter stem?
Alembicbassman
Confused.com
953 Stainless steel is now available, £1500 for frame and carbon forks set. 531 has been superceded by improved steel alloys for many years now.
Current Dawes Super Galaxy uses 853.
Here's a list of most of the Reynolds tubes http://reynoldstechnology.biz/assets/pdf/rtl_decal_history.pdf
Some manufacturers ordered their own spec, my Claud Butler road bike has double butted seamless Cr-Mo which was not a standard order.
Current Dawes Super Galaxy uses 853.
Here's a list of most of the Reynolds tubes http://reynoldstechnology.biz/assets/pdf/rtl_decal_history.pdf
Some manufacturers ordered their own spec, my Claud Butler road bike has double butted seamless Cr-Mo which was not a standard order.
Roadrace bike frames are usually built to have a 4" ( 100mm ) stem.
The steeper the head angle, the longer the stem should be to counteract the 'twitchiness' of the low rake and trail.
My Pug has a 73.5 deg head angle. I have a 5" stem, which makes steering more of a sideways shove than a twist round the headset.
Track bikes with 74 deg head angles have been known to have 6" stems. The Toptube is shortened to compensate and the front tyre almost touches the downtube. Even with such a twitchy head angle, trackstands are easy due to the bars moving sideways and not round.
Shorten the stem and the handling will change.
The steeper the head angle, the longer the stem should be to counteract the 'twitchiness' of the low rake and trail.
My Pug has a 73.5 deg head angle. I have a 5" stem, which makes steering more of a sideways shove than a twist round the headset.
Track bikes with 74 deg head angles have been known to have 6" stems. The Toptube is shortened to compensate and the front tyre almost touches the downtube. Even with such a twitchy head angle, trackstands are easy due to the bars moving sideways and not round.
Shorten the stem and the handling will change.
Fab Foodie
hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
- Location
- Kirton, Devon.
It was the reverse situation IIRC - I offered, as any gentleman would, to relieve you of your Holdsworth!
... and I'd be happy to see her go to a good home
snailracer
Über Member
You could try raising the stem. It would be easier to reach the bars, without any introducing any "handling" issues (although I think those are exaggerated).
threebikesmcginty
Corn Fed Hick...
- Location
- ...on the slake
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
And/or flipping the stem and/or rotating the bars back slightly?
I used to get sore wrists on long rides and it turned out to be due to riding with my hands bent down slightly on the hoods. I flipped the stem to and rotated the bars and now have a much more comfortable position.
Here's a picture of the front end of my Cannondale to show you what I mean...
PS Oops - you probably have a quill stem so you can't flip it. Yes, if it isn't fully raised, try raising it as well as rotating the bars (or leave the bars where they are, take the bar tape off, move the brake levers up and retape the bars).
