1st Autumn/Winter

[boydj]

Keep the extremities warm and as dry as possible, so good quality gloves, overshoes or winter boots, and a skull cap for the head and ears under your normal headgear are all essential, as is a good quality winter jacket. Quality tyres, such as Conti GP 4-Seasons will minimise the risk of punctures (the last thing you need on a frosty or wet morning). Studded tyres are a bit of overkill in most areas of Britain - though they can make cycling fun in snow and ice.

Stick to main roads when it's frosty, since they should be salted. Beware of days when it's extremely windy - sometimes it's safer not to cycle. Good reflectives are just as important as good lights, particularly on the lower leg, feet or pedals which will help identify you as a cyclist to drivers when the weather's bad. For cycling in the dark, two sets of lights, front and back should ensure you don't get caught out by a flat battery. Enjoy.

 

[Moodyman]

Any advice would be welcome, on what to expect etc

Even if you take on board all the advice and equipment recommended, expect it to be hard and de-spiriting.

Prepare for a 6 month slog. Consecutive days of wind, rain and cold are common. Some days you'll be unwell, some days the bike.

Every so often, you will get those days where everything will be just right, and all the previous suffering will be forgotten.

 

[MichaelW2]

Cycle paths are not gritted so beware of leaving gritted surfaces.

 

[ColinJ]

Minimise gritty salty crap thrown up from the road onto your bike (and you!) with mudguards. Some will still get on the bike and it is pretty corrosive so rinse it off ASAP after each ride. (I went out for a quick Christmas morning ride once, rushed back for Christmas dinner, and neglected my bike - the chain rusted stiff overnight!)

 

[Reynard]

On the other hand, there are moments when winter riding just... clicks...

I've been out, leaving at sunset, then riding alongside the River Delph and the Hundred Foot at dusk, stopping to watch barn owls hunting on the levees, and returning home on a crisp, clear, still night with the sky ablaze with stars.

Then there's getting back in the warm, putting the kettle on and settling back to a lovely hot post-ride cup of tea.

 

[12boy]

I used to commute most of the year, even in -18c. Here's my warped perspective.
Wool is good. Woolen glove liners inside of wool mitts are my favorites, because they breathe and waterproof synthetics can hold your sweat until wet and take forever to dry. Long sleeved merino tshirts are spendy but I still wear some 15 years old
If you will ride on ice get studded tires. Much more effort to ride on, though.
In fact, between the aero drag of wearing more clothes, the extra muscle needed to push through snow, and the fact that cold air is noticeably denser you many find 5 winter miles, in -7 temps, all bundled up can feel more work than 15 miles in shorts and t shirt.
On the other, if you stay warm and can avoid falling down on ice, it's such a rush to be thriving in adverse conditions. Many times I've been intimidated by the weather only to end my ride feeling like a million bucks.

 

[mjr]

Even if you take on board all the advice and equipment recommended, expect it to be hard and de-spiriting.

And confused because half the advice will contradict the rest! Like I'd not add water to road salt on a bike after a mucky ride: just wipe and oil the chain. And I don't think gritting helps bikes, not the way UK councils do it, in a coarse paste optimised for cars.

 

[steve292]

And confused because half the advice will contradict the rest! Like I'd not add water to road salt on a bike after a mucky ride: just wipe and oil the chain. And I don't think gritting helps bikes, not the way UK councils do it, in a coarse paste optimised for cars.

See, you are right about the conflicting advice, because I am lucky enough to have access to a hose at work by the bike shed on an unloading apron and I have always rinsed the bike at the end of my ride in in the winter. I will add the caveat that I oil the chain (mickle methodish) after each day.
I've absolutely no corrosion on my alloy Allez after 7 years of this.

 

[mjr]

I've absolutely no corrosion on my alloy Allez after 7 years of this.

Aluminium always has a thin surface corrosion. That's quite normal and harmless. The old joke is that you can tell when aluminium is corroded because it's not on fire.

 

[BrumJim]

Recommend a buff. It can give you variable warming properties depending on how much of your head and neck you cover.

Overshoes prevent the worst of cold and soggy feet if you intend to ride in all weathers.

Warm cup of tea or soup at work ready for emergencies, should you misjudge the temperature and/or wind.

On the flip side, there is nothing more wonderful than a clear late autumn morning when the sun has just risen and the mist hangs just a metre or so above the ground, particuarly close to a stream or on playing fields. It is just the most beautiful thing you will see all year.

 

[Grant Fondo]

Prepare yourself for not seeing hundreds of cyclists out and about like the last few months! Apart from that it's great fun. I would invest in full mitts though, I lumbered on with half mitts for too many winters and frozen pinkies. Good luck and enjoy

 

[johnblack]

I now do nearly all my winter riding on the 29er, apart from those days which are the exception and fine and dry. The roads round here aren't that great, plus I can veer off and do some tracks if I want. I don't really lose that much speed, but it is more effort and relentless, so as a tool for getting fitter you get a decent workout in a shorter time which when it's cold is a real bonus. Plus come spring time when I get back on my winter roadbike it feels great.

 

[steve292]

Aluminium always has a thin surface corrosion. That's quite normal and harmless. The old joke is that you can tell when aluminium is corroded because it's not on fire.

You are right of course but you know what I meant. Salt is problematic for aluminium,especially if you have disimilar metal components on the bike so I always rinse it off well, but that requires a more regular approach to oiling of drivetrains, and other components.
But I'm sure you know that as well.

 

[MichaelW2]

Car wax is a useful layer on frames.

 

[wafter]

Nice contributions guys - as a long-time fair weather cyclist I'm hoping to get out more this winter so along with the OP appreciate all the tips.

For what it's worth I can add a little advice from experience:

Lights: Personally I like front and rears that use separate AAAs and have a set of spare batteries in the rucksack. I like a head torch too as it illuminates where you're looking (so much better on dark bends than a fixed light) and doubles up as a utility light if you have a mechanical and want both hands free.

Mudguards: Absolutely; having experienced the joy of a decent set of guards for the first time this year it's absolutely amazing how much crap they can fend off; not just you but the bike too - making it easier to clean and less likely to suffer damage from damp, salt and particulate contamination.

Gloves: Again, hands get cold being subject to a lot of wind chill and located at your extremities, so gloves are essential once the temperature starts to drop IMO. Similarly a wooly hat is worth more than its weight in gold for the warmth it provides for its size and mass.

That's the extent of my "wisdom" - beyond this I'm all ears as to everyone elses' suggestions