1990's Orbit Italia

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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
Oh no cutting cranks off doesn't sound like a fun job

I will try old worn out one first to see if it is possible to cut through them .
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
I eventually gave in after trying various methods to remove the cranks. I tried using a ball joint separating tool wedge between the crank and the frame but all that succeeded in doing was to remove the BB locking ring and damage the crank . There wasn't much of a gap between the frame and crank to get the tool in sufficiently to obtain the best effect. In the end I decided that I would cut through a crank. They were chrome plated and were corroded badly. One was worse than the other but with sharp bits of chrome plating lifting a bit of a hazard. I noticed that the drive side BB cup looked to be cross threaded. It was sitting at an angle to the frame. I will have to check the threads.
Once the crank and BB axle were removed the reason for the creaking and binding fell out. A pair of badly misshapen cages and bearings fell out.

Broken crank.JPG
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
I set about trying to fit a new sealed unit this morning. I cleaned out the threads on the drive side of the frame . They look a bit suspect but thought that I might get over that by fitting the non drive cup in first . The non drive side cup had to be removed first. It was tight! Dot punch and hammer. It took a while just moving a few degrees at a time but I eventually got it out. I cleaned out the threads and ran an old cup in. It went in fine. I fitted the new sealed unit cup and then went to fit the new unit. It wouldn't go through! I tried it several times as I couldn't understand what was preventing it ! It was the underneath cable guide! It was sticking up! I put the bike back in the garage in disgust! :angry:
 

Gillstay

Veteran
I set about trying to fit a new sealed unit this morning. I cleaned out the threads on the drive side of the frame . They look a bit suspect but thought that I might get over that by fitting the non drive cup in first . The non drive side cup had to be removed first. It was tight! Dot punch and hammer. It took a while just moving a few degrees at a time but I eventually got it out. I cleaned out the threads and ran an old cup in. It went in fine. I fitted the new sealed unit cup and then went to fit the new unit. It wouldn't go through! I tried it several times as I couldn't understand what was preventing it ! It was the underneath cable guide! It was sticking up! I put the bike back in the garage in disgust! :angry:

Yep, had that a few times and often takes me a while to cotton on. Don't know why though ! :laugh::rolleyes:
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
More fun this morning.
I fitted the non drive side cup in first as I intended. I tried an old drive side cup to check the threads and it went in fine. I then tried the new sealed unit but found that it wouldn't line up . I tried several times without success and then finally found that the obstruction was still causing a problem. A bit more filing and it went in without a problem. I fitted the cranks and chain and then discovered that the BB was too long. With the front derailleur set for the smaller chainring it was on the larger one. I went to Halfords and picked up 2 shorter ones for £8. They had been reduced in a sale . I swapped the BB 's over , fitted the cranks , pedals and chain and it now just needs testing.
 

biggs682

Itching to get back on my bike's
Location
Northamptonshire
Looks ready for testing to me
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Great work; although the RD looks far too horizontal - looks like you might want to check the chain for wear and if it's not shafted pull a link or two..
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
We had some fine weather today so I was able to take my bike out for a road test. I did my usual ride over to Lacock down the lanes. The road test went well without a hitch. I did 11 miles.

DSC_0141.JPG
The cranks seemed to spin a lot easier since fitting the new BB. I didn't notice that before as I had nothing to compare it with.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
I think it's usually just corrosion, like an alu seatpost in a steel frame. The white aluminium hydroxide, or whatever it is, expands and makes the fit too tight for the puller threads to survive.
 
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