1940s Raleigh rescue - Should I or shouldn't I?

[Hugh Manatee]

I've just had a read on Sheldon Brown's site about removing cotter pins and it sounds frankly terrifying! Still at least I'll have two bikes to practice on...

I don't know if the Sheldon method is the same as this, but feel free to try it. I found an old Moulton waiting for the scrap man. I grabbed it and decided to restore. The cotters were stuck solid. After a good soaking in Plus Gas, find a half inch drive socket. You'll need one large enough to fit over the end of the cotter with enough room for it to move up into the socket (giggidy).

Now get a large vice and with the socket over the end of the cotter, use the power of the vice to push/squeeze the cotter out of the crank.

I had to use a short tube to give me extra welly on the vice handle. After not much time both of them popped out and I was able to dismantle the BB. This, as someone mentioned was in very good order indeed. I replaced the cages with loose bearings and used new grease but the BB surfaces were more or less perfect even after 45 years!

 

[roadrash]

just like three posts above

 

[ChrisEyles]

Thanks for all the tips everyone. This will be my first time totally stripping down and rebuilding a bike, so I'm sure I'll encounter plenty of other quandries along the way!

I'm looking at the bikes tomorrow, so hopefully they will be in a restoreable condition.

If so I'll get some photos up of the bikes in their current state - and get those cotter pins (and seat posts) soaking

 

[ChrisEyles]

Well, I've now got the two bikes in my shed Time for some piccies!

Here's the newer of the two - can't really place a model or year on this one (serial number 97814B on seat tube and 98740 on BB doesn't help), but the 26" wheels suggest it may possibly be a sports model? I don't think the pain is original (judging from how it's been slopped over the seat post, headset etc), so am thinking of stripping this frame down to repaint.

The other bike seems to date from 1937 (going on the serial number), and is probably a Raleigh Popular, based on inspection of the catalogues. This one has the standard 28" roadster wheels. Interestingly, the handlebars have been done in black rather than chrome - maybe wartime shortages, or a blackout precaution?

This one seems to have the original paintwork (including the remains of a nice headbadge), but the state of the paint and rust is so bad I'll probably strip this one down to repaint as well.

The restoration is going to be a v e r y s l o w process, but I'll keep updated with pics as and when I get the various jobs done!

Edit - both bikes have single speed rear hubs, rather that the 3 speed S.A. hubs I was expecting. When I've de-gunked them, I'll have a look to check for any year stamped on them.

 

[raleighnut]

The older one looks a corker. hardly touched in over 75 yrs by the look of things (apart from being ridden that is) could come up V nice but a lot of work.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I await the next instalment with bated breath.

The restoration is going to be a v e r y s l o w process, but I'll keep updated with pics as and when I get the various jobs done!

... oh.

Looks really interesting. Have fun with them.

 

[ChrisEyles]

The older one looks a corker. hardly touched in over 75 yrs by the look of things (apart from being ridden that is) could come up V nice but a lot of work.

Haha, apparently the older one was found in a field, so it could well not have been ridden for some time either!

I await the next instalment with bated breath..

I know... it's not for lack of enthusiasm though! One of the big hold-ups is going to be getting enough free days with dry weather to re-paint the frames!

 

[ChrisEyles]

Dogtrousers, these pics are for you, since you inspired me to have a quick crack at the newer bike:

Used the excellent trick with the vice and socket to get the cotter pins out.

One came out quietly, the other kicking and screaming.... it is now a little bent from the pressure of the vice, and the threads were already stripped. A bit of a bugger, since I don't relish the thought of filing a new one to match! If anyone's got any tips I'm all ears...!

 

[Tony Raynor]

New ones should fit without too much bother unless they are unusually large in diameter. The beauty of the cotter pin was that it would find its own level due to the chamfered side.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

I think you are supposed to replace cotter pins anyway. I did and had next to no trouble. I think I filed the flat faces slightly to allow more thread to poke through but that's all.

Remember, you'll only need the Imperial half of the spanner set!

I love the rod brakes. Your bikes look quite similar to the one on display in Cannock Chase Museum.

 

[Dogtrousers]

New ones should fit without too much bother unless they are unusually large in diameter. The beauty of the cotter pin was that it would find its own level due to the chamfered side.

THere's a phrase one doesn't hear very often.

 

[raleighnut]

Ah but if Campagnolo made them in Titanium for their new crankset would we go back.

 

[ChrisEyles]

Next up is fun and games with the pedals - they are incredibly stiff so need overhauling, but I can't undo them from the cranks! Need to find a length of pipe...

 

[roadrash]

i think a tin of plus gas is in order for the siezed pedals

 

[raleighnut]

Bit of MEDIUM heat (blowtorch) wouldn't go amiss either, separately of course unless you're a big @vernon fan.