105 R7000 noisy in large front CR
- Thread starter Sloth
- Start date
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OP
OP
Sloth
Über Member
OK, I only know that it was in line with YouTube videos on 'Squirt' that also stated the chain needs to be as lube free/clean as possible before application? I assumed to allow the wax lube to stick to the actual chain, rather than a layer of existing oil/lube, which could act as a barrier between the wax and the chain itself?
Either way it's done and seems to be working well.
roubaixtuesday
self serving virtue signaller
I think those wax lubes require degreasing?
Whether a wax lube will make any difference is another matter, but I think if I were that LBS, the opportunity for a harmless wax placebo to both placate customer *and* make a bit of easy cash might be hard to resist!
(assuming they charged for it, maybe they did it as a favour)
As others have said, the original problem needs fine tuning of the limit screws and cable tension. A common mantra with FD problems is to give it more tension. However, with 4 position FDs, too high a tension can have the cable tighter than it needs to be, and it is trying to throw the mech beyond what the limit screw will allow.
The cable and lever position are therefore in position 4, but the actual mech hasn't been able to move beyond position 3. In this case, the first release click of the lever eases the tension, but then the mech stays where it is as it's actually in the right position for the lever/tension.
Not sure if this helps, but good luck getting this sorted, John.
The cable and lever position are therefore in position 4, but the actual mech hasn't been able to move beyond position 3. In this case, the first release click of the lever eases the tension, but then the mech stays where it is as it's actually in the right position for the lever/tension.
Not sure if this helps, but good luck getting this sorted, John.
OP
OP
Sloth
Über Member
And I thought I was cynical!
Na, these guys aren't like that, at east I don't think so.
They charged my £42 in total.
That included the new Ultegra chain, cleaning it, fitting it, putting the 1st wax coat on, and indexing the gears.
It also included the bottle of Squirt wax.
I don't think that unreasonable, in fact if you consider the time, then it's a very good deal.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
The front mech looked badly set up, hense the rub. I've got 105 10 speed on my CX bike, with these new fangled STI's - don't even need the trim TBH, still works well even being naughty and cross chaining (not that I do).
Hey. I had the same issue on my brand new 105 bike. Apart from the loud drive train on the larger CR, i also had inconsistent shifting. What i found today and seems to be solving the issue with the noise and the shifting is interesting... The manufacturer (shortname mofo) put a Jagwire outer casing for the cable at the rear derailleur and it was dry inside and of course the cable was dry too. I greased the cable in that area that is inside the outer casing and...what a surprise, the chain on the smallest cog started to click because the low limit was suddenly off and i had to adjust it again by getting the derailleur cage inwards. Shimano recommends a specific casing OT-RS900 with an aluminium end, to grease the inner cable together with the inside of the outer casing and ensure they slide properly, That Shimano outer casing is 6 euros retail, i don't know why they don't stick with the recommendation from Shimano and put the Jagwire DRY. And the second surprise, the drive train is much more quiet!!! The RD 105 R7000 has a design flaw. The cable rubs on the side below the barrel adjuster where it exists. I think that tension there if the cable is dry leads to some kind of pulling of the chain by the derraileur, especially on the larger cogs when the cable is more tensioned by the shifter.
