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bonj2

Guest
welcome

what sort of riding are you planning on using it for?
 
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wilko

wilko

Veteran
Hi, thanks for your prompt reply. I plan to use it mainly on the road, with occasional excursions down tracks or tow path. Apologies if I've posted this in the wrong place!
 

DJ

Formerly known as djtheglove
wilko said:
Hi, thanks for your prompt reply. I plan to use it mainly on the road, with occasional excursions down tracks or tow path. Apologies if I've posted this in the wrong place!



Yes you have posted in the wrong place but don't worry!

I think you need a hybrid, mudguards, rack, lighter in weight less tread on the tyres.......:smile:
 

bonj2

Guest
wilko said:
Hi, thanks for your prompt reply. I plan to use it mainly on the road, with occasional excursions down tracks or tow path. Apologies if I've posted this in the wrong place!

Ah, you're one of those "occasional excursion down tracks or tow path" type cyclists are you. You see if you're riding mainly on road, you would be better with a drop barred, 700c wheeled, thin tyred road bike, as they are faster and more comfortable for the road - but that throws a bit of a spanner in the works.
Just ask yourself exactly WHY you plan on 'occasional excursions down tracks or tow paths' (and whether you actually truthfully do), as long as it's not because of trepidation towards getting an out-and-out road bike and simply to fend off such recommendations, from your own self as much as anything.

but if you've thought about that and you are still intent on going down gravelly tracks, then that bike's probably ok - you could do a lot worse, but there's two things I don't like about it - one, you don't need suspension forks for 'occasional excursions down tracks and tow path', you only need suspension forks for proper MTBing, and if you're doing that you need better ones than them.
Also I'm not too keen on mechanical disk brakes, personally - 'cos normally only one pad moves rather than both the pads moving towards each other as with hydraulics. People will say 'ah but they work perfectly well', but imho it just doesn't sit right that the rotor moves.
 
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wilko

wilko

Veteran
bonj said:
Ah, you're one of those "occasional excursion down tracks or tow path" type cyclists are you. You see if you're riding mainly on road, you would be better with a drop barred, 700c wheeled, thin tyred road bike, as they are faster and more comfortable for the road - but that throws a bit of a spanner in the works.
Just ask yourself exactly WHY you plan on 'occasional excursions down tracks or tow paths' (and whether you actually truthfully do), as long as it's not because of trepidation towards getting an out-and-out road bike and simply to fend off such recommendations, from your own self as much as anything.

.

Your post got me thinking, what do I want? And you are right, perhaps I don't really want to ride off road at all. So with that in mind, I'm still not sure I want to go for a full blown road bike, this bike might suit me better.
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Specialized-Sirrus-Sport-2009-Road-Bike_20965.htm
 

bonj2

Guest
wilko said:
Your post got me thinking, what do I want? And you are right, perhaps I don't really want to ride off road at all. So with that in mind, I'm still not sure I want to go for a full blown road bike, this bike might suit me better.
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Specialized-Sirrus-Sport-2009-Road-Bike_20965.htm

that IS effectively a road bike, it's just got flat handlebars instead of drops, and slightly smaller chainrings.
Bear in mind though that drop handlebars offer you a much better variety of hand positions, therefore are more comfortable - they're not just for getting your head down for speed. Once you're used to riding on the drops it is a very comfortable way to ride. I personally prefer drops with a 'straight' section where I can put my hands, rather than ones that are curved all the way.
Also bear in mind that 28mm tyres will be slower rolling on the road than 23mm, although with 28mm tyres you'll have absolutely no problem with tow paths anyhow.
As i say, one other difference between that and 'most' road bikes is the chainset, it's slightly more 'relaxed' - a standard road triple would probably be 30/42/52, whereas that's 28/38/48.

What it boils down to is do you want drops or not. If you're absolutely sure you definitely don't want drops and you're going to be doing most of your riding on road (and even do want to go on the odd tow path) then that would be your ideal bike.
But, imho, you shouldn't just assume that you don't want drops simply because you've no prior experience with them. You could possibly do with trying out a bike with them for a good few miles, ideally when/where it's quiet to see if you like them.
 
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wilko

wilko

Veteran
bonj said:
What it boils down to is do you want drops or not. If you're absolutely sure you definitely don't want drops and you're going to be doing most of your riding on road (and even do want to go on the odd tow path) then that would be your ideal bike.
But, imho, you shouldn't just assume that you don't want drops simply because you've no prior experience with them. You could possibly do with trying out a bike with them for a good few miles, ideally when/where it's quiet to see if you like them.

I have decided that don't want drops initially because I am relatively new to cycling so I am going to go with what I am familiar with. I like the Specialized bike because although it's classed as a road bike it is more or less a hybrid and so a bit more user friendly though I can see myself going for a "proper" road bike in the future.

bonj, many thanks for your comments they have been a big help. :sad:
 

bonj2

Guest
yep, go with what you're used to. it's perfectly possible to convert it to drops - you just need to buy the drop bars themselves, bar tape, and new STI levers, and possibly some new cable.
 
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