Which type of headset do I need?

[Custom24]

Hi
I would like to replace my headset. I've had it apart and I am fairly happy I can do the job myself.

It is a 2012 specialized hardrock mtb, which has a 1 1/8 threadless headset with caged bearings.

Is that what is called a "conventional" headset? As opposed to an "integrated" or "semi-integrated" one?

I'd like to replace it with a cartridge bearing type, but I am not sure what type I need.

Also, do I need to worry about stack height? What's that?

Thanks
Mark

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Sounds like you have conventional 1 1/8" threadless. If in doubt you can check with this, which also explains what stack height is - if it is different to existing you might need different spacers to maintain the stem position if you have spacers, and possibly different stem otherwise, so that the top of the stem is still ~3mm clear of the top of the steerer tube. There are numerous options available on the market. On One is offering pretty good prices for Orbit MX, Orbit XL2 etc. which are light and decent, and they have cartridge bearings.

 

[Custom24]

Thanks for your help. I've had a look through the pdf.

Do I measure my existing stack height? How do I do this?

Do pictures help make it definitive about what type of headset I've got and what I should look to replace it with?

Thanks again

 

[accountantpete]

1. Basically the stack height is the length added to the headtube by the external parts of the headset - ie the black bits at each end excluding spacers.

However you have plenty of spare capacity (ie 3 spacers) so don't worry about this.

2. That is a traditional headset. Not integrated or semi integrated.

3. The bad news is that it is a Specialized bike and they make amazingly complicated arrangements for what is a very simple job.

I have checked on the Cane Creek headset finder ( http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder )and you may have a tapered steerer. This means that the bottom bearing may have a larger internal diameter than the top. You need to check my findings and then take the forks off to confirm.

From the Cane Creek finder you need EC 34 28.6 top and EC 34 30 bottom.

Google Tapered Headset.

Not too many manufacturers make this as a single headset so normally you need to buy two but a quick google suggests these look promising although they have difficulty in spelling headset!


http://www.ridedirectcycle.co.uk/components-c2/hardware-c16/headsets-c35/gusset-r-series-mix-n-match-heatsets-p386?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=gusset-r-series-mix-039-n-039-match-heatsets-size-ec34-28-6-size-ec34-28-6-hdgute34&utm_campaign=product+listing+ads

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

1. Basically the stack height is the length added to the headtube by the external parts of the headset - ie the black bits at each end excluding spacers.

However you have plenty of spare capacity (ie 3 spacers) so don't worry about this.

2. That is a traditional headset. Not integrated or semi integrated.

3. The bad news is that it is a Specialized bike and they make amazingly complicated arrangements for what is a very simple job.

I have checked on the Cane Creek headset finder ( http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder )and you may have a tapered steerer. This means that the bottom bearing may have a larger internal diameter than the top. You need to check my findings and then take the forks off to confirm.

From the Cane Creek finder you need EC 34 28.6 top and EC 34 30 bottom.

Google Tapered Headset.

Not too many manufacturers make this as a single headset so normally you need to buy two but a quick google suggests these look promising although they have difficulty in spelling headset!


http://www.ridedirectcycle.co.uk/components-c2/hardware-c16/headsets-c35/gusset-r-series-mix-n-match-heatsets-p386?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=gusset-r-series-mix-039-n-039-match-heatsets-size-ec34-28-6-size-ec34-28-6-hdgute34&utm_campaign=product+listing+ads

Pete I think the Cane Creek finder's result shows that it is a bog standard 1 1/8" aheadset, not tapered (because it is 34 top and bottom). The reference re 28.6 and 30 are just (approx, more precise sizes in multiple decimal places are in the Sutherland pdf I linked to earlier) steerer diameter and crown race diameter (where as usual the steerer is slightly wider for a press fit for the crown race) respectively.

Just to be sure I have input the model and age of a Spesh I have which I know for a fact requires a bog standard 1 1/8" aheadset, and the finder provides exactly the same headset spec.

 

[accountantpete]

Pete I think the Cane Creek finder's result shows that it is a bog standard 1 1/8" aheadset, not tapered (because it is 34 top and bottom). The reference re 28.6 and 30 are just (approx, more precise sizes in multiple decimal places are in the Sutherland pdf I linked to earlier) steerer diameter and crown race diameter (where as usual the steerer is slightly wider for a press fit for the crown race) respectively.

Just to be sure I have input the model and age of a Spesh I have which I know for a fact requires a bog standard 1 1/8" aheadset, and the finder provides exactly the same headset spec.

I agree/disagree strongly!

The op will have to replace the existing crown race (unless you just replace the top and leave the bottom as is - hint hint).

I have installed some crown races on non-tapered forks which needed filing slightly to even approach pressing them on and others which were more than ready to go on. It all depends on the fork/steerer.

I think that the bog standard same top and bottom will work with some persuasion but that the "correct" headset would save some sweat.

 

[Custom24]

OK thanks guys. I have a vernier calipers, so it looks like what I need to do is to;

Take out the fork and the bearings.
Measure the internal diameter of the bearing cups top and bottom.

As far as I remember from when I took it apart a few months ago, I didn't notice any difference in diameter between the bearing cages top and bottom, but I might be wrong.

And I need to replace the whole thing. The top is actually in reasonable condition, but the bottom is rusty. I cleaned it up and regreased, but it needs replacing. I suppose the alternative would be to replace just the bearings and their cages, but I couldn't find replacements. Or another alternative was get rid of the cages and just pack with loose bearings, but that's just going to be a pain in the ass, right? Plus neither of these options is as good as a new cartridge headset.

 

[accountantpete]

Loose bearings are perfectly ok - it's just a bit fiddly installing them.

If you measure the bearings and the size of the cage then you can get caged headset bearings on ebay or if you have a big LBS they may have some.

They do exactly the same job as sealed bearings and you won't have the hassle prising off the old crown race.