Which chain for this bike

[k4lim]

I've got here what appears to be a Raleigh BSA Westcoast in need of a new chain as this one is worn and rusted through.
Struggling to find information online about which chain it needs and it's not located at my place therefore I can't count the links manually either.
Could buy a chain with more links but not a fan of taking them out as they can be a nightmare sometimes. Would rather just the exact one.
The bike is a 15 speed (5 on the back).
Anyone have a clue?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Ajax Bay]

This is an impossible question to answer on the data you've shared. Share the chainstay length, the number of teeth on the largest sprocket and chainwheel (my guess is 42cm, 48t, 28t) and there's a formula available.
If you want a chain the right length, visit your local bike shop (LBS) with the bike who will measure and cut it for you while you wait from a very long roll.
If you aren't "a fan" of removing links from a chain you buy in a box, may I enquire how you are going to join the chain? It's a lot easier to break a chain (taking out x links) than joining it (by forcing a pin back in). Joining with a quick link (8sp) is an easy option: buy one at your LBS, along with the cut chain.

 

[FrankCrank]

Regular 'speed chains' come oversize, just make it the same size as the old chain. The chain tool is inexpensive, and a great addition to the bikers toolbox. Many YT vids if you need a simple tutorial

 

[Cycleops]

Any chain marketed as a ‘5-8 speed’ will do the job. You’ll need to cut it to length like any chain so a chain tool is needed, which is easy. Joining it is simple with ‘spring link’ or ‘missing link’. As for sizing just lay the old one against it link for link or follow any of the sizing options on YouTube. There is a mathematical method if you don’t want to use physical one.
If you don’t fancy the job take it to your LBS.

Looks like you need a ‘ noodle’ * for the front brake too. I’d replace all the gear and brake cables (inner and outer) for better operation while you’re at it. You won’t be able to thread a cut cable through the noodle anyway so you’ll need a new one.
Before you go any further make sure you can move the seat post. Bike seems to have been left outside for some time.

*
View: https://youtu.be/ndGvbBmu1Ps

 

[T4tomo]

Looks like you need a ‘ noodle’ * for the front brake too. I’d replace all the gear and brake cables (inner and outer) for better operation while you’re at it. You won’t be able to thread a cut cable through the noodle anyway so you’ll need a new one.
Before you go any further make sure you can move the seat post. Bike seems to have been left outside for some time.

No this is incorrect, if you look they are cantilever brakes not V brakes - they do need re cabling though.

To @k4lim the new cable needs to thread down through the hanger shown eon this pic

or you could order a uphanger similar to the one on the rear to fit to the front forks

whatever you do don't remove the front reflector as that is your fail safe if the cable fails on the cantilever, as that will stop the straddle cable dropping into the front tyre and sending you over the bars.

more info on Canti's here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

 

[Cycleops]

My eyes! You're quite right of course.

 

[k4lim]

This is an impossible question to answer on the data you've shared. Share the chainstay length, the number of teeth on the largest sprocket and chainwheel (my guess is 42cm, 48t, 28t) and there's a formula available.
If you want a chain the right length, visit your local bike shop (LBS) with the bike who will measure and cut it for you while you wait from a very long roll.
If you aren't "a fan" of removing links from a chain you buy in a box, may I enquire how you are going to join the chain? It's a lot easier to break a chain (taking out x links) than joining it (by forcing a pin back in). Joining with a quick link (8sp) is an easy option: buy one at your LBS, along with the cut chain.

I agree but unfortunately I don't have the bike for a little while yet to get that information . As for joining the chain I usually just use a quick link. I installed a quick link on my other 2 bikes when replacing the chain, easy stuff .

 

[k4lim]

Regular 'speed chains' come oversize, just make it the same size as the old chain. The chain tool is inexpensive, and a great addition to the bikers toolbox. Many YT vids if you need a simple tutorial

Thank you, this'll probably be what I'll do now . I've got all the chain tools for the job they're just naff quality and not the best that's why I'm less confident in removing links and not keen on replacing the tools.

 

[k4lim]

Looks like you need a ‘ noodle’ * for the front brake too. I’d replace all the gear and brake cables (inner and outer) for better operation while you’re at it. You won’t be able to thread a cut cable through the noodle anyway so you’ll need a new one.
Before you go any further make sure you can move the seat post. Bike seems to have been left outside for some time.

Yep, when I looked at the bike yesterday I noticed the calliper on the other side on the front is actually damaged so I'm replacing them both and a new cable with housing too since the previous owner seems to have cut it for whatever reason. Should've mentioned earlier that this was a bike acquired from someone else that has been neglected in the outdoors like you said.

Thank you for the help

 

[k4lim]

No this is incorrect, if you look they are cantilever brakes not V brakes - they do need re cabling though.

To @k4lim the new cable needs to thread down through the hanger shown eon this pic
View attachment 626959


or you could order a uphanger similar to the one on the rear to fit to the front forks
View attachment 626958

whatever you do don't remove the front reflector as that is your fail safe if the cable fails on the cantilever, as that will stop the straddle cable dropping into the front tyre and sending you over the bars.

more info on Canti's here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

Thank you , as mentioned in my above message I'm having to replace it all completely as one of the callipers are damaged and the cables cut for whatever reason.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I've got all the chain tools for the job they're just naff quality and not the best that's why I'm less confident in removing links and not keen on replacing the tools.

OK. You only need one 'chain tool' so your use of the plural (twice) makes me uncertain. A chain tool to do the job is cheap (in fact see this Halfrauds offer, many others well up the quality spectrum are available):
https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...ools/topeak-chain-tool-universal-278494.html?
I carry one of these always: it has been useful several times (other people's chains ).
If you're not concerned with pushing the pin back in to rejoin the chain, then you can be completely confident in their use: screw it till it squeals; and unscrew. Job done (NB determine length twice, cut once).
Buying this tool and a 5-8p chain (you'll probably need to cut off about 4 links) will be cheaper than going to your LBS, probably quicker, but the end result a little less assured.