Are you getting more p'tures than normal, if so inspect and potentially replace, if not carry on. Some tyres however, like Conti Grand Prix have wear markers (it might be unique to Conti, Ive never seen them elsewhere) two little holes on the tread that gradually dissappear when the tyre is worn.Are there any 'tells' like car tyres? When do I need to replace? I've done around 4,000 miles commuting in London on them.
If its lack of tread don't worry as said above bike tyres are too narrow too aquaplane. Some tires will actually break down and actually be more grippier with age.Thanks. No more than normal (1 in last 6 months) but its quite potted with tiny holes. Not 100% sure about grip which is the thing that's concerning me.
No use looking for holes as I don't know if/where I had them and would find it difficult looking for something that's not there!
Some tyres however, like Conti Grand Prix have wear markers (it might be unique to Conti, Ive never seen them elsewhere) two little holes on the tread that gradually dissappear when the tyre is worn.
The latest Schwalbe Marathons have wear markers like on a car tyre.Are you getting more p'tures than normal, if so inspect and potentially replace, if not carry on. Some tyres however, like Conti Grand Prix have wear markers (it might be unique to Conti, Ive never seen them elsewhere) two little holes on the tread that gradually dissappear when the tyre is worn.
Can you explain how a more worn tyre grips less on a road surface, since of course many folk ride on slicks and they "grip" perfectly well. I appreciate that the situation is different for mountain bike tyres on loose/muddy surfaces.Hi,
Fit it to the front, and put the front on the back.
That way you will always have the best grip in the front, which matters most.
He's just saying that when a rear tyre needs replacing then put the new one on the front and the front onto the rear as front tyres wear less and can degrade before they wear out. When I do this I make sure to keep the direction of rotation of the tyre the same as well.Can you explain how a more worn tyre grips less on a road surface, since of course many folk ride on slicks and they "grip" perfectly well. I appreciate that the situation is different for mountain bike tyres on loose/muddy surfaces.
Thanks for the reply raleigh - I read the post too quickly and was up early - but at the risk of being a grumpy Friday afternoon wotsit, the direction of travel is surely irrelevant as well for road tyres. all the bestHe's just saying that when a rear tyre needs replacing then put the new one on the front and the front onto the rear as front tyres wear less and can degrade before they wear out. When I do this I make sure to keep the direction of rotation of the tyre the same as well.
I read it as me makes sure the new tyre is on the front but rotates the old front to the rear. Its a rule I stick too basically you dont want to put a potentially rear tyre to the front which might blow, as a blow out on the rear is generally controlable and a blow out on the front less so. I don't think they are reffering to the individual rotating direction of each tyre which is pretty irrelevant.Thanks for the reply raleigh - I read the post too quickly and was up early - but at the risk of being a grumpy Friday afternoon wotsit, the direction of travel is surely irrelevant as well for road tyres. all the best