When Should I Need to Change Chainring?

[mkmark666]

Hi
Some advice needed on chain ring wear. Have done approx 12k miles on an FSA chainset, pretty much all of it on large ring (it's flat round here and I'm lightweight)

I've attached a photo. Would you consider I need to change the large ring or is it still OK do you reckon

?
thanks in advance

 

[ianrauk]

Definitely needs changing. Got the old shark teeth going on with that chainring.

 

[13 rider]

Comparing the teeth on the inner ring to the outer shows how much the outer is worn . Time for a new one

 

[mkmark666]

Ianrauk.
Thanks for the advice. I've already got the new one ready to go on but just wanted to be certain there weren't any more miles left in the current one!
Cheers

 

[mkmark666]

Comparing the teeth on the inner ring to the outer shows how much the outer is worn . Time for a new one

thanks for confirming!

 

[Drago]

Provided it's not slipping or owt at the moment, I'd leave it until you've squeezed every last mile out of the chain as well. I'm a big, heavy, powerful stripper and never had to replace a chain right yet.

 

[gbb]

Agree with Drago, if it's not causing any problems, ride it out with the existing chain then replace both.

Equally, I m of the opinion, theres a maintenance cost to owning a bike (or anything mechanical for that matter) and we shouldn't get too hooked up in extending every last ounce of life out of everything . Replace a little early, sleep easy. It's a trade off, maximise cost efficiency against maximise peace of mind.

 

[faster]

There's not really much point in changing it until it slips with a new chain.

Looks okay to me.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

There's not really much point in changing it until it slips with a new chain.

Looks okay to me.

That's not how it works.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

That chainring is still fine. The biv and small ring teeth dont look the same.

 

[numbnuts]

I've done 45,431 miles on mine and still in use without any slipping, mine you I just sit and spin on hills

 

[mkmark666]

thanks everyone. changed it this afternoon b4 I read the post saying it may not need changing! New chain at the same time (which definitely needed doing).
cheers..

 

[Ajax Bay]

Hope you don't mind if I also observe that your FD cage looks too high: 2-3mm above the large ring's teeth is about right. That should mean your front shifting operates as it should and minimises the chance of losing the chain 'outwards'.
Found this for you: https://www.cyclist.co.uk/tutorials/520/how-to-adjust-your-front-derailleur
"The front derailleur should run parallel to the chainrings . . . [and] when directly above the large chainring, the outer edge of the derailleur should sit 2-3mm above the teeth of the chainring. If necessary, shuffle it up or down [the seat tube/braze on] before retightening the bolt."

"

 

[mkmark666]

thanks. I'll get my ruler out and have a measure. It hasn't been moved since I bought it from new but you never know...

 

[mkmark666]

Hope you don't mind if I also observe that your FD cage looks too high: 2-3mm above the large ring's teeth is about right. That should mean your front shifting operates as it should and minimises the chance of losing the chain 'outwards'.
Found this for you: https://www.cyclist.co.uk/tutorials/520/how-to-adjust-your-front-derailleur
"The front derailleur should run parallel to the chainrings . . . [and] when directly above the large chainring, the outer edge of the derailleur should sit 2-3mm above the teeth of the chainring. If necessary, shuffle it up or down [the seat tube/braze on] before retightening the bolt."

"

so the thing is. The FD is about 3mm from the chainring at the top. however, it's definitely not parallel with the chain ring with a much larger gap at the 'lower end' (as you spotted). Not sure how I can rotate it to make it parallel though. Maybe where it bolts into the seat tube perhaps.