When buying spares, do we always go for the best....?

[plastic_cyclist]

I was wondering if we as amateur, recreational, everyday riders should be shelling out the big bucks to get the best brands and best specifications to that of a pro=racing rider who enters into competitive races??

For example, I am looking for new tubeless tyres and was wondering if I really do need the top-spec GT5000 etc...? or would a lesser brand do the job for a 60 mile week kinda guy???

 

[DCLane]

It depends on what type of riding I do; GP5000/Pirelli for the better bikes, Rubino for commuting. The same for other replacement parts.

 

[vickster]

I was wondering if we as amateur, recreational, everyday riders should be shelling out the big bucks to get the best brands and best specifications to that of a pro=racing rider who enters into competitive races??

For example, I am looking for new tubeless tyres and was wondering if I really do need the top-spec GT5000 etc...? or would a lesser brand do the job for a 60 mile week kinda guy???

They’ll last longer if only doing 60 miles a week as compared to a couple of hundred.
I’ve never spent more than £25 on a tyre I think and they’ve all served me well.
Oh other than Marathon Plus and they were awful heavy slippery things, glad when I sold the bike wearing them

 

[plastic_cyclist]

I often wonder that as it is the companies prerogative to sell and sell more, if they get some pro rider reviews (i.e GCN on Youtube), putting weight behind their products, then they will sell more....regardless of whether a "Happy Shopper" (remember them?) tyre could do the same job......

 

[classic33]

I often wonder that as it is the companies prerogative to sell and sell more, if they get some pro rider reviews (i.e GCN on Youtube), putting weight behind their products, then they will sell more....regardless of whether a "Happy Shopper" (remember them?) tyre could do the same job......

Wouldn't it be in the manufacturer's interest to sell more of a cheaper item, than less of a more expensive one.

 

[plastic_cyclist]

I suppose cycling shoes is a good debate, we just need them to click in and be comfy.....why are some £200+ and some £35......they do the same thing and we only use them to pedal!!

E.g. Shimano S-Phyre RC9 = £230

 

[homebuilds]

I suppose cycling shoes is a good debate, we just need them to click in and be comfy.....why are some £200+ and some £35......they do the same thing and we only use them to pedal!!

I use to wear Sidi boots on my motorcycle and they were like wearing slippers. My Rockport boots are the best I have ever worn for every day use. Cycling wise, I currently wear Boardman shoes, they're pretty good but I will be getting a pair of Sidi's for Chrimbo

 

[RoubaixCube]

I suppose cycling shoes is a good debate, we just need them to click in and be comfy.....why are some £200+ and some £35......they do the same thing and we only use them to pedal!!

E.g. Shimano S-Phyre RC9 = £230

About the shoes -- Yes and no. Some of them come with carbon/glass fibre reinforced mid soles which adds to the rigidity of the shoe so helps when youre really stomping on the pedals compared to cheaper shoes that are made with plastic composites or rubber soles. Not to forget the fancy insoles that 'mold' to the shape of your feet if you heat them up in the oven

--- Not all of it is needed - the heat molded insoles are a bit of a gimmick but everything else is personal preference.

Id pay £70-120 for a good pair of shoes though. I have a pair of old Shimano XC61s and MT-71s and much prefer my XC61s for the reinforced mid-sole.

Everyone has their own personal preference XC61s with a specialized footbed have always been comfortable for me

 

[FrankCrank]

They’ll last longer if only doing 60 miles a week as compared to a couple of hundred.
I’ve never spent more than £25 on a tyre I think and they’ve all served me well.
Oh other than Marathon Plus and they were awful heavy slippery things, glad when I sold the bike wearing them

I get my tyres from Decathlon - fiver each. They seem a good match for a plodder like me.

 

[carpiste]

Funnily enough I had some cheap decathlon mitts but after 500 miles they started falling apart! Going to get some new and slightly improved ones but no way am I spending silly money... probably £15 max. I actually noticed a bit of pain in the wrist and thumb. Not sure if it can be as a result of the wear on the mitts but it`s funny how this has just come to light.

 

[yello]

I buy only what I'm comfortable paying! I feel no obligation to buy best, I'm guided by price in all purchases and, within that, favourite colour... nah, but it does play a part! If I could (sensibly) afford best then I'd buy it.

For example, I'm finding that my once preferred tyres have become more expensive in the last few years so I'm looking for something cheaper.

I don't 'splash out' or buy myself birthday presents either, but I do keep my eye on sales for anything a bit 'deluxe' that I might fancy. Once found a pair of heavily reduced (like third price) Carnac shoes in an end-of-line sale... my word, they're plush! I'd sleep in them! But they're only cycling shoes at the end of the day. I wouldn't have paid full price for them.

 

[IanSmithCSE]

Good morning,

I suppose cycling shoes is a good debate, we just need them to click in and be comfy.....why are some £200+ and some £35......they do the same thing and we only use them to pedal!!

E.g. Shimano S-Phyre RC9 = £230

I have a pair of Aldi MTB shoes and they have probably done 25k miles, cost £20 and are only now just about ready for the rubbish bin.

But and this is huge but I ride with clips and straps so I appreciate the stiff sole but did not attach cleats (or shoe plates).

After a relatively short period of time the plate where the cleat would have been bolted snapped on both shoes





Having looked around t'web this seems to be a frequent complaint with cheap shoes, along with the mounting plate becoming partially detached from the shoe. Both of these faults would probably mean that unclipping would become extremely difficult as the cleat moves around on the shoe.

Knowing this I would happily buy the Aldi shoe again and recommend that it is worth trying for anyone who rides without cleats, it is a noticeably better shoe for cycling than generic trainers but you can walk in it.

I get riding in trainers or other footwear but I like having shoes specific to certain tasks as it gives them time to air/recover from my feet and if they get soaked in the rain I still have other dry pairs for something else.

Bye

Ian

 

[Dogtrousers]

I certainly wouldn't use what the pros use as a guide to tyres.

The needs of racers are completely different, as they have team cars, and want to be able to keep moving if they do get a flat. A lot of them ride tubulars, for goodness sake. Very few outside of the world of racing use those.

Do the pros use GP5000 tubeless? (Genuine Q, I have no idea)

And anyway are GP5000 particularly expensive tyres? I did a quick search and they look to be about £40, which isn't exactly in "how much???!?!?" territory even if they are at the high end of tyre prices.

 

[Kajjal]

Coming from three decades of mountain biking the main thing is reliability closely followed by function. I upgraded the whole group set a good few years back to XT on my XC hardtail plus replaced the wheels. Brakes and wheels far better , drivetrain at best a marginal difference. Due to this my full suspension bike has remained as is with no need to upgrade anything. For tyres I find just go for what works best for you, my gravel bike is fine on road with the 38mm tyres it came with.

 

[Drago]

I'd no more but kit because "the pros" use it any more than id buy the same parts that Schumey used on his F1 car. Aside from the usual expense with no beneft, its usually inappropriate for my needs.