Wheels Bearings

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Jdratcliffe

Well-Known Member
Location
Redhill, Surrey
I have a rear wheel thats only 5 mnths old ( new wheelset with new bike) done just under 2000 miles but sounds as thou the bearing are shot ( not that i know this) i have never taken a wheel apart before how easy is it? or roughly what would it cost to have a pro look at it? or would this be the life span of a stock wheel?
 

Arjimlad

Tights of Cydonia
Location
South Glos
I did this and it is not as hard as the bikeshop suggested.

You will need a cassette removal tool and if it is a Shimano freehub, an 8mm or 10mm Allen key (don't remember which one)!

You also need the right size spanners to undo the locking nuts.

I think after 2000 miles in 5 months of winter riding it is forgiveable for the bearings to need some TLC/regreasing..
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
What wheel ?

Cup and cone are easy to do, as are sealed bearings. If you've caught it in time then it may be just gritty, but if the bearing race is pitted, its new hub/wheel time.

Sealed cartridge bearings are relatively simple to replace, you just change the cartridge.

You will most likely need a set of cone spanners 15-17mm for the rears.

As for life, well if ridden in all weathers you do need some maintenance, and new wheels aren't overly packed with grease.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
10mm allen key if a shimano freehub, or 12mm if a 'copy'. Shimano freehubs undo from the drive side, but some copies undo from the non drive side.
 
If it's a cheapy hub then the chances are that something will need replacing.

The trouble starts with poor seals allowing moisture in and that affects the grease. Add salt into the equation and you get pitted/corroded races which cannot be repaired. If they are sealed bearings you just need to knock the old ones out and pop new ones in. If they are caged bearings then the hub may be toast.

I'd take it apart yourself and see what you have. If you have caged bearings you need to look carefully atr the races in the hub and on the cones for pitting. If there is pitting in the hub then the wheel may be uneconomical to repair.
 
If you've ridden it through the winter then I'd be checking the bearings more regularly than every 2000 miles. I checked mine after a 1000 and they needed re-greasing.

As above, its an easy job. Expect to pay around 10-20quid for a shop depending if you need new bearings and if you want 2 wheels looking at, I presume the front wheel was present for those 2000 miles too?!
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Any chance of a pic of the front hub and axel. I run Formula hubs on my fixed and the ones recommended were sealed bearing, so dead easy to change. Proved great advice.

I would think they are probably cup and cone,mug we can usually tell from a photo of the hub and axel
 
OP
OP
Jdratcliffe

Jdratcliffe

Well-Known Member
Location
Redhill, Surrey
What wheel ?

Cup and cone are easy to do, as are sealed bearings. If you've caught it in time then it may be just gritty, but if the bearing race is pitted, its new hub/wheel time.

Sealed cartridge bearings are relatively simple to replace, you just change the cartridge.

You will most likely need a set of cone spanners 15-17mm for the rears.

As for life, well if ridden in all weathers you do need some maintenance, and new wheels aren't overly packed with grease.
Fossyant is there a way of telling what mine are without taking them apart? i commute 5 days a week and dont really want to wreck a wheel on the weekend without having a "backup" plan, i'd possible have a go on the sealed units but other then that proberly be lost.. might ask local shop to do it but i watch.
 
OP
OP
Jdratcliffe

Jdratcliffe

Well-Known Member
Location
Redhill, Surrey
wimped out had bike mech look at it while i watched and as he took the hub apart it broke apart can i claim this back as the bike is only brought in July or would this class as "wear and tear"
 
OP
OP
Jdratcliffe

Jdratcliffe

Well-Known Member
Location
Redhill, Surrey
supplied are the pics of the cup which after closer inspect have cracks in them (bike mech mobilecycleservice) changed the wheel out (open pro at £115) and recommended contacting the manufacturesas wheel not even 1yr old.

IMG_1958[1].JPG

IMG_1959[1].JPG

IMG_1960[1].JPG
 
Can't see any cracks but there is a lot of corrosion from an ingress of water.

This has flushed away the grease and without that the race has worn away.

Have you been cycling through deep water or using a pressure washer to clean the bike?
 
Top Bottom