Wheel trueing.

[gavroche]

It is possible to buy a trueing stand for less than 50 pounds and I am wondering if:
1). Is it worth the expense when my LBS charges 20 pounds for doing it.
2) How easy is it to actually do.
Your comments from whose of you who have experience in this matter will be truly appreciated.
Many thanks.

 

[Paulus]

There are a couple of truing stands on Amazon for a few pennies less than £50.
With some practice it does get easier. If it's just a case of the wheel being a little out of true, you can make a simple gauge with two cable ties, one on each fork or stay and cut to size. Point the ends at the rim and take it from there.

Mickle takes you through the dark art of wheel truing -------
Thread 'Mickle's tip of the - Season to be Jolly: Wheel truing.' https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/mickles-tip-of-the-season-to-be-jolly-wheel-truing.91352/

 

[FrankCrank]

Here's an excellent and thorough tutorial:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEv9IqMvUnQ&t=2s


As to a stand, an upturned bike is perfectly adequate for the occasional dabble.

 

[All uphill]

I do it.

It's easy and enjoyable to learn if:

You are not in a hurry.
You quite enjoy an absorbing and fiddly job.
You are not in a hurry.
You get satisfaction from a job well done.
You have time.

I think my first wheelset, built from hubs, rims and spokes took me two days to get right. I'm still cycling on them five years later.

 

[gavroche]

I have just taken a good look at the back wheel and a spoke is broken so I will take the wheel to my LBS tomorrow.

 

[Ajax Bay]

If a spoke is broken that's an even easier fix (def no trueing stand required).
[Assumes broken spoke is/was 'normal j bend at hub end.]
Remove wheel
(If rim simple (ie not box section) with top of nipple in contact with rim tape, deflate tyre.)
If right side spoke, remove cassette.
Unscrew spoke, stopping nipple turning with spoke key.
Take spoke to your excellent LBS and they will supply a replacement (correct length and same gauge (plain or double butted)).
Insert new spoke (get crossings right by mimicing next trailing/leading spoke) and screw nipple on till tight.
Pluck adjacent spokes to get tone and tighten spoke further till its tone matches.
Very likely wheel will now be true, with no further action.
Replace wheel and ride on.

 

[All uphill]

If a spoke is broken that an even easier fix.
[Assumes broken spoke is/was 'normal j bend at hub end.]
Remove wheel
(If rim simple (ie not box section) with top of nipple in contact with rim tape, deflate tyre.)
If right side spoke, remove cassette.
Unscrew spoke, stopping nipple turning with spoke key.
Take spoke to your excellent LBS and they will supply a replacement (correct length and same gauge (plain or double butted)).
Insert new spoke and screw nipple on till tight.
Pluck adjacent spokes to get tone and tighten spoke further till its tone matches.
Very likely wheel will now be true, with no further action.
Replace wheel and ride on.

Agreed.

Or buy the full complement of spokes and replace them one at a time to have a (nearly*) good as new wheel.

*depending on condition of hub and rim.

 

[Gunk]

I’ve always managed to true wheels pretty accurately by putting the bike on a work stand and using a cable tie as a guide

And old set of forks in a vice also works

 

[presta]

It is possible to buy a trueing stand for less than 50 pounds

It's possible to make your own for nothing, I did, and a homemade dishing gauge.

 

[sleuthey]

I just turn it upside down and use the rim brake blocks as a guide. I don't use cable ties but very happy for others too as I'm not in the single use plastic police.

Tip - if the spokes are old or rusty then hold them in place with a mole wrench when you first turn the nipple because if it's seazed onto the spoke the rotation can twist and snap the spoke.

 

[Big John]

The more people that think wheel truing/building is a dark art the better, I say. Any wheel problems should be resolved by professionals at your LBS or bike charity/project . As good and responsible cyclists we should do our very best to perpetuate the myth truth that anything to do with wheels is more complex than rocket science and particle physics put together.

 

[fossyant]

It's a great skill to learn. Built a fair few wheels myself, and you can select the best parts for the job you intend it to do. It's not complicated. You just need to remember to 'balance' what adjustments you do (tighten a spoke and un-tighten another bit by bit).

Very happy with my latest wheels. Completely from scratch. Bought vintage unused hubs from ebay (XT 8 speed), laced to some Ryde rims, with some decent ACI spokes. Laced with a quick you-tube video (remembering where to start for the valve) and the wheels were done in a few hours. Took tension out (wheel axel on floor - lean hard on each side), check, adjust, then stick on bike. I made one tweak (as I'm a fussy 1mm or less variance person) and not touched the wheels since, carrying heavy loads off road to and from work.

Very theraputic, and an inner glow you get - other folk (like family) don't understand, but you've just mae a wheel, and they can't. And the wheel is bomb proof when done !

 

[ColinJ]

I have a Campagnolo Proton front wheel on my CAAD5. There is noticeable wear on the rim but it will probably last another couple of years as long as I avoid doing many more wet rides on it. I have another front Proton with damaged spokes and hub, but I think its rim is ok. (It is in my cellar. I'll have a look tomorrow when I am down there reading the meters.) When the current rim wears out I will have a go at rebuilding the wheel with the other rim. I have a skilled mate who could take over if I make a mess of it.