What to look for in a frame?

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Scilly Suffolk

Über Member
After three years on a (heavy) hybrid I have a hankering for a bit more pace, particularly as I've entered my first Sportive.

Being on the dole a new bike is out of the question, in fact a second-hand bike (of any merit) is too.

So I figure my best bet is to build from scratch over a (considerable) period of time.

Obviously my first purchase will be a (second-hand) frame: please could you advise me a) who's frames are well regarded b) what I should be looking for in a quality frame and c) where I'm likely to find them for sale.

I understand that Sportive frames have a shorter top tube for a more relaxed riding position: anything else?

Thanks in advance.
 
Any frame is a mixture of stiffness and flex. For the faster alloy bikes, the designers know that for an equal weight a 30mm tube is stiffer than 25mm tube even though the latter has a thicker wall - hence you get the oversize tubing in modern bikes. In addition they can strengthen the main areas of flex like the bottom bracket and head tube.

The only problem with a stiff bike is the pounding you get - so they attempt to compensate with a thinner seat tube/seat stays and carbon seatposts and forks.

eBay is the best bet for a good second hand bike - which one is a matter of taste and requires a bit more reading around on your part.
 

montage

God Almighty
Location
Bethlehem
Some older steel road bikes can come in pretty cheap, and still be pretty nippy as well! What sort of money you planning to spend?
 
OP
OP
Scilly Suffolk

Scilly Suffolk

Über Member
I have no budget: whatever I buy will be a struggle, but getting together £250/300 for a complete bike just isn't going to happen.

Ideally I would buy something with a decent frame and upgrade the rest of it over time, but I don't imagine any manufacturer would start with a decent frame and hang a load of (affordable) rubbish off it.

The most cash I'm likely to be able to rustle up at one time is £100 and that would be stretching it. Am I likely to find a good frame for that money?
 
Ideally I would buy something with a decent frame and upgrade the rest of it over time, but I don't imagine any manufacturer would start with a decent frame and hang a load of (affordable) rubbish off it.

I'm afraid that's basically what they do at the moment - good frame and then cheap components to keep the cost down.

Unfortunately, prices are pretty high these days so that means buying second hand by the sound of things.

You will find that it is usually a lot cheaper to buy a complete bike rather than assembling it bit by bit but a good bike is going to cost somewhere in the region of £300 -400 second hand.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
After three years on a (heavy) hybrid I have a hankering for a bit more pace, particularly as I've entered my first Sportive.

It seems to me that possibilities may exist for you to significantly lighten and speed up your hybrid, if you wouldn't mind letting us know its detail spec. Obviously the more details the better, at the minimum perhaps that of make & model, frame, fork, wheels and tyres.

In any case if you have the time and interest to build up from a frame, doing some research on what you have already and what parts weight might be a fun exercise too.

Fwiw my steel "sports-tourer" has frame and fork weighing 3.3kgs, which is actually over 2 kgs heavier than the lightest carbon rocket ship out there, and undoubtedly heavier than most aluminium road/hybrid frames/forks on the road. But that hasn't stopped the bike from being a fast, comfy, reliable, lightish (sub 10 kgs) machine that can eat miles.
 
OP
OP
Scilly Suffolk

Scilly Suffolk

Über Member
RecordAceFromNew you star! What a clutz I've been: familiarity breeds contempt and all that!

It's a Land Rover Torreon I'd guess a 2006 or 7 model with the 21" frame.

Off the top of my head I'll need some drops, integrated brake/shifters, pedals and ultimately wheels and a saddle.

Can I use integrated shifters with my existing groupset? Are cranks/pedals universal or will I need a new crank?

Now I'm really excited! :biggrin:
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
From what you said in your original post I was a little worried that you have to start from a clunker, but with the 7005 alloy frame, steel fork, nice relaxed geometry I can see, IMHO what you have is NOT bad at all! In fact I suspect your frame is no heavier than the average steel or alloy frame on a sportive circuit, and many people prize a steel fork over alloy for better vibration absorption especially over long journeys and rough terrains.


Assuming the drivetrain of your bike is well maintained and in good condition, what will likely make the most difference in terms of speed and feel would be improvements in your tyres and wheels. In fact due to the magnified importance of rolling inertia and rolling resistance, for most bikes getting lighter, higher pressure tyres and lighter tubes is the most cost effective way to transform them, then followed by better wheels.

Can you provide the details stamped on the sidewall of the tyres you have? It is not in the spec from your link.

Do you happen to have a good scale for measuring weight? or a reasonably comprehensive set of tools for bikes? I got a digital scale for fishing that will handle 30kgs off ebay for a few £s. A reasonable starter toolset specific for bikes costs about £30.

I must however let you know that upgrading your wheels is not entirely straightforward due to some knock-on effects on gearing. According to the spec you have a 6 speed freewheel on the back, but practically all modern off-the-shelf light wheels are cassette based for 8/9/10 speed. Since the shifter has to be consistent with the number of speed at the back, if you get those you are likely to want to change the shifters too.

Since you are interested in getting brifters on dropbars, it is natural then to explore whether that would be an easy replacement. Unfortunately firstly brifters are inappropriate for V brakes, which you have, due to different cable pull requirement, and secondly they are not compatible with mtb front mechs, which you might have.

I think this is as good an article (please note it is in 5 parts) as any describing the potential trials and tribulations of converting flat bar to drops. You did say you want a project!
biggrin.gif


It is however possible to bypass all that by just getting a light, quality set of secondhand wheels that will take a 6 speed block. They are often available on ebay for effectively a song (compared to what they used to cost), although of course buying secondhand sight unseen has its own challenges as well as benefits.

Of course if you are interested in lightening up the bike many other possibilities exist, some saddles are very heavy compared to the 200g for a lightish one, and there is a chance that your bike has a heavy steel seatpost, while a lightish one is again only 200g. This database is not overly up-to-date, but imho remains one no self-respecting weightweenie could do without...

Anyhow as I said, the first step should be an assessment of what you have. Then you can assess whether the potential outcome at the end would justify the steps and costs for you.
 
OP
OP
Scilly Suffolk

Scilly Suffolk

Über Member
Apologies for the delay in replying: I have been without internet access until recently.

Matters were taken out of my hands when the Torreon was stolen. Especially frustrating as I had just fitted second-hand SPD pedals, a decent saddle off of a Bianchi and 28mm tyres which made it a much more enjoyable ride...

In replacement I have just bought this which, in my opinion, is a great deal and something of a revelation after my previous ride.

It was ready to ride out of the box and goes like stink (all that time labouring on fat tyres and mountain bike gears has paid dividends).

Frame shifters and very responsive handling have taken a little getting used to, but I couldn't be happier. The frame and drops suit me fine: wrist and backaches have gone!

Now saving for a re-spray and trawling E-bay for new wheels (to take QR skewers) and a new gearset (great ratios but showing their age).

Off to get some more miles in before Winter now!
 
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