Roger Longbottom
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I've got a pair of old Maillard 'Wide flange' hubbed wheels that I cleaned and rebuilt the hubs and got John to build into wheels that you'd get fed up waiting for them to stop, not only that but once they've lost enough inertia to fully rotate they'll swing back and forward for minutes before coming to a stop with the valve at the bottom. They're 78/79* hubs though so built when quality was still in fashionBut which is correct, should they spin for a good while or not?
The full carbon Bontrega jobbies (not cheap) I have on road bike hardly spin for more than a few revolutions before stopping, the Shimano A319 wheels which were on my old bike went on for ages.
Another factor is wheel rotating mass / moment of inertia. At the same rotational speed and bearing drag etc a wheel with a lower moment of inertia (in simplified terms with a lighter tyre and rim) will slow and stop faster than a heavy one. I'd not expect wheel mass (and hence spinning time) to vary by much more than a factor of two and would suggest that if you're seeing greater differences than this other factors are at play.But which is correct, should they spin for a good while or not?
The full carbon Bontrega jobbies (not cheap) I have on road bike hardly spin for more than a few revolutions before stopping, the Shimano A319 wheels which were on my old bike went on for ages.
Yep the 2 don't necessarily go together, poorly adjusted (loose) bearings might spin well unloaded but not perform too well on the road also adding stress to the axle and as for the manufacturers method of getting them so tight they barely turn and with virtually no grease on em.Bear in mind that wheels that spin and spin with no load on and settle pendulum-like with the valve at the bottom, implying excellent (minimal) bearing friction, may not perform comparatively as well when the bearings are vertically loaded (ie when ridden).
Whenever I pass an unattended bike I get an overwhelming urge to press the tyres to check the pressures. I can't help it, no matter how hard I try.
Please tighten it back up or the trick you'll perform might be damaging.Loosening the QR did the trick, will see what it rides like tomorrow.
You need to remove the rubber seal to access the cone, it should just pull out.This is all I have on both sides, how would you unscrew that Ajax?
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Trek's finest £1000 wheels. If I were to run these I would leave them screwed until I thought it time for new bearings. Then I would get the best I could source.This is all I have on both sides, how would you unscrew that Ajax?
Fair enough, it did look like the rubber seal in mine. They must have put them together somehow, though, something must come off.No rubber seal there CR, there is a hard plastic which is an integral part of the splined affair thingy!