Two questions.

[DDYB]

Folks,

Been cycling for a few months now and have two questions I would appreciate any answers to.

1. Do I need a new saddle? I am doing about 25 miles 3 times per week but it's not getting any more comfortable. I am a big lad and am currently trying to shift about 4st so I accept that there is more pressure on my @rse but shouldn't it be getting more tolerable? I have a Giant Defy and I'm using the original saddle. Should I look at a new saddle and if so how would I know which one without buying and trying lots of them? I wear padded shorts but they make very little difference imo.

2. I always read that you shouldn't grind up a hill but should spin where possible. I have some pretty steep hills beside me and even in the easiest gear on the bike (compact) I just manage to go fast enough to stop me falling over........ So presumably I am grinding. Should I get off and just walk to revent damage to my knees or just keep at it untill I get fitter/lighter?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Bigtwin]

1. Possibly, but not a lot of point till you lose the weight, as what's comfy now (if anything) probably won't be when you have a lot less aresfat. Then it's trial and error time anyway.

2. If you knees aren't hurting, then don't worry - whatever gets you up there; it's all burning calories, and you'll get more leg strength cycling than walking.

Good luck and keep up the good work.

 

[RedBike]

1) Yes, there's no point being uncomfortable.
I'm afriad finding the right saddle does require a bit of luck. I can point out a few pit falls though....

Just because the saddle has loads of padding, gel inserts, is super wide and feels very comfotable in the shop doesn't mean it will be comfortable on long rides. On longer rides the excess padding /gel seems to exhert pressure on parts it shouldn't (pressure on tender parts = major discomfort); and wider saddles can impede pedalling.

I would recommendations will be the San Marco Rolls. An old favourite of many riders because you can often find them very cheaply (£20ish) and they're very comfortable.

The Brooks B17, on offer from sjs cycles
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-...Saddle--Honey-with-Black-Steel-Rails-2867.htm

2) Nope, keep pedalling. This is how you'll get fitter.
We all end up grinding up really steep hills.

 

[briank]

Saddles are personal, so trial and error I'm afraid.
That said, don't buy lots of diffrent saddles without trying different shorts: I have an old Brooks saddle which is best with one pair of bibshorts, and a couple of Fizik Aliantes which work better with another pair. It's the combination of saddle and shorts which suits a given @rse - or doesn't.
No hurry though: as Bigtwin says, things'll change anyway when you lose some of that "aresfat".

 

[LazyLoki]

Saddle comfort is all about fit and has nothing to do with the amount of padding - regardless of if the padding is on your arse or on the saddle. I use a Brooks Team Pro saddle on my commute and you can knock on it like its a door, there's no padding at all, but because it fits me properly I find it comfortable.

If you have a good bike shop near you (might have more luck with one of the big chains like Evans Cycles or Cyclesurgery) they should be able to use a memory foam seat thingy to measure the distance between your sit (arse) bones - Have a quick grope now and you should be able to feel them.

When you're in the saddle (or sitting on a hard chair for that matter) your sit bones are what should be taking your weight. Once you know the width of the bones you can get a saddle of the appropriate width. If the saddle is too narrow you can end up with your sit bones hanging over the edges and all of your weight being taken by the 'soft tissue' in between. The idea is to get a saddle that allows your sit bones to well...sit on the raised parts at the back of the saddle but not be so wide that your thighs rub on the sides.

Specialized saddles in particular usually come in three width options and this is marked on the packaging.

 

[DDYB]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

LazyLok, that makes sense. It is most definitely 'soft tissue' that hurts........ And it's closer to another part of my anatomy than it is to my @rse. I was thinking I was maybe stretching too much due to a long stem for example and that's why all the pain was there rather than my @rse but perhaps the seat is just too narrow for my bones as you suggest.

So you can actually be fitted for a seat rather than just trial and error? I get severe pain after about 10-15 miles every single ride and as I say it's bot getting any more comfortable over time.

 

[LazyLoki]

Getting a saddle that fits isn't really an exact science but knowing the width of your sit bones will certainly give you a good idea of where to start and will allow you to dismiss some saddles that are obviously going to be too narrow. Any saddle manufacturer should list the widths of their saddles on their websites.

But before you run out and buy a new saddle you should try fiddling around with the one you already have first. Saddles have quite a lot of adjustment in them. If you find that you're stretching a bit to the bars you could try sliding the saddle forward a bit on its rails to bring you closer. That will also bring the saddle a bit further forward under you.

Most seat post clamps will also allow you to tilt the saddle up and down like a see-saw and you mentioning that a lot of your weight is being taken near the underside of the old family jewels makes me think that your saddle might be sitting a little nose-up. If you look at your saddle from the side is the nose higher up than the rear end? If thats the case, or if its dead flat, you might want to try tilting the nose down a bit. That should shift more of your weight to the flat of the saddle at the rear.

Setting up a saddle can be a bit tricky and even very minor adjustments of a few millimeters back and forth or a couple of degrees of tilt can make a big difference. You should know when you hit the sweet spot though as you really will start to forget that the saddle is there at all.

 

[buggi]

1. Possibly, but not a lot of point till you lose the weight, as what's comfy now (if anything) probably won't be when you have a lot less aresfat. Then it's trial and error time anyway.

2. If you knees aren't hurting, then don't worry - whatever gets you up there; it's all burning calories, and you'll get more leg strength cycling than walking.

Good luck and keep up the good work.

don't agree with this but agree with the others. best thing i ever did was get my sit bones measured at the shop (as said above, shop sits you on a foamy thing, gets you a saddle that fits the width of your bones... not mega expensive, my saddle cost about 20 quid i think and it was o so bliss! it's nothing to do with weight, it's all about sitting on those pointy bits of bone at the bottom of your pelvis.

try to keep sitting while going up the hill and relax your top half, even if it means being in a granny gear to keep your cadence up a bit. you lose less energy and it's easier on the knees. if you're in your granniest gear and you lose your cadence don't worry about it, just keep sitting as long as possible and only stand up/stop as last resort. just have a rest if you're struggling too much, and next time you tackle the hill make it your goal to get further up it than before. if you haven't already, consider getting some cleated shoes. having your feet clipped in to the pedals means you can pull up as well as push down, which helps a lot.

in time you will get fitter and lose weight naturally.

 

[punkypossum]

If you find that you're stretching a bit to the bars you could try sliding the saddle forward a bit on its rails to bring you closer. That will also bring the saddle a bit further forward under you.

In that case you'd be better off with a shorter stem - provided the saddle fore/after position is right the way it is, moving the saddle is not a good way to adjust the reach.

As for changing saddles, there is still a few shops about that will let you try out a saddle on loan to see if it fits - might be worth enquiring if there is one near you, could save a lot of money.

 

[Bigtwin]

don't agree with this but agree with the others.

As someone who has cycled at largely varying weights, I can tell you from personal experience that it's true.

If you don't believe me, trying cycling with a rucksack with 3.5 stones in it on your back, and see how comfy your saddle feels.

 

[Randochap]

In that case you'd be better off with a shorter stem - provided the saddle fore/after position is right the way it is, moving the saddle is not a good way to adjust the reach.

+1 Yep.

 

[DDYB]

How far can I move the saddle?

I suspect a new stem is required but before I purchase one I just want to make sure the problem can't be solved without adjusting the existing saddle.

So, could I slide it forward 100mm for example or would that be too much?

 

[purplepolly]

there's usually limit marks on the rails under the saddle, if not, mine leaves about 1cm of straight rail outside of the clamp if it's set at the limit so leave at least that much.