Torque wrench

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toby123

Senior Member
Location
West Sussex
Hi,

I have some new Speedplay cleats which I need to fit and I want to tighten the screws to the correct torque but I'm struggling to find a torque wrench that has the necessary screwdriver bits. I would like to have one that I can use for all bike-related hex, torx and screw fitting jobs, or is that pie in the sky?

Advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
I use one of these,http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycling/tools-maintenance-repair/torque-wrenches/torque-wrench/
You can buy any socket you need to add to it.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
I have never used a torque wrench for bike related stuff, not that it's wrong to do so. That said, over years (gentleman amateur only), I flatter myself that I kind of know how hard to nip up bolts. Cleat screws do need to be fairly tight, bearing in mind they're quite small so King-Kong style will strip or shear 'em. For cleat screws, I'm inclined to use a dab of medium or low strength Loctite too to stop 'em undoing. Don't use extra strong Loctite as new cleats will mean new shoes too !

- caveat - I gather it is more important with carbon fibre parts, but this may or may not be a myth. I've never had a carbon fibre bike so didn't concern me.

I do have torque wrenches for car and bike, but even then, only use 'em where it matters.
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
I have 2 one for low values . Bought for work and used on bikes occasionally. The higher value one only works one way since calibration and I should have trusted my instincts on feel!
 
Location
Loch side.
There are plenty around, including that from PRO and BBB, both with the necessary 1/4 inch bits. Note that you don't get a torque wrench that suits every bolt on the bike since the range 3NM to 50NM isn't available in a single wrench. Most amateurs only need the smaller wrench that can do 3NM to 20NM.

On modern high-performance bikes with lightweight components, a torque wrench is a must, even if you do have the necessary skill and feel. Reason being tht modern stems have multiple bolts on the bar clamps and it is essential that they are all torqued the same. If one is torqued more than the other, it takes more strain than the others and may crack. The stem bolts, for reasons of weight and load distribution, are smaller than they can safely be if there was only one and they are thus disproportionately stressed if not torqued correctly. Some seatposts nowadays also have two bolts. For the rest of the bolts the seat of your pants approach is fine.

This is true for all parts on cars trucks or space ships, where more than one bolt clamps a piece that receives cyclical strain.
 

robgul

Legendary Member
PlanetX have been selling a set with loads of bits (looks like a rebadge of the set I bought from Rose) - pretty good value and gives the comfort of accuracy for expensive bike part fitting

Rob
 

autolycus

Über Member
Location
Surrey
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
I rarely use torque wrenches for bike jobs. I'd also question how useful they are, as I've seen sources that suggest they are +-25% to +-35% in terms of accuracy. And as I've previously mentioned, a professional engineering fitting shop sets the torque wrench using a calibrated torque meter, rather than a scale on the handle.

See the table here for torque wrench accuracy:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint#Setting_the_torque
 
OP
OP
T

toby123

Senior Member
Location
West Sussex
I have just found a Phillips no 1 and a no 2 end bit at home and found that it's the no 1 bit that will work on my cleat screws. It is just the end bit without a slot, so I'm now wondering whether the end bits in the Madison one for example will detach from their sockets, enabling me to pop my Phillips bit into an empty socket to attach to the wrench. Either that, or can I buy a standard socket that will marry the wrench and Phillips bit together?
 
Location
Loch side.
You can do it in two ways I know of.

1)Buy a 1/4 inch (assuming that's the side of you wrench's square) to 6.3mm hex converter and use the hex bits you already have.
2) Buy a ready-made quarter inch socket with a Philips bit.

However, I won't bother with torqueing the cleats, they're not critical and the thread is set in hardened steel, so you really have to monkey about to strip that out. Just make them very tight and go for a ride.
 
Location
Loch side.
I rarely use torque wrenches for bike jobs. I'd also question how useful they are, as I've seen sources that suggest they are +-25% to +-35% in terms of accuracy. And as I've previously mentioned, a professional engineering fitting shop sets the torque wrench using a calibrated torque meter, rather than a scale on the handle.

See the table here for torque wrench accuracy:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint#Setting_the_torque
The accuracy is almost irrelevant, since the error is far smaller than the max and min values required. However, these middle of the range wrenches are at least consistent and consistency is what you are after when torqueing a clamp with multiple bolts. They should all be the same, not all perfectly accurately at 4NM or whatever is stamped on the clamp.

Yes, certain industries need to have absolutely accurate instruments, but bicycles are not dental crowns or cylinder head bolts.
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
I still think torque wrenches are a waste of money for most jobs, and no replacement for experience. The biggest problem amongst beginners is likely to be mechanical ineptness, such as someone who when faced with four clamp bolts, immediately tightens the first to the stated torque, rather than tightening them all gradually in stages.
 
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