Remember them from the 80`s ... "It`s My Life" ... OK silly "joke" outta the way. Having a look at some past topics today and started reading entries on Torque wrenches ( some people say an absolute must for a carbon frame. Others pooh pooh them entirely ). I can see that they might be useful BUT are a tad pricey. Anyhows, came across a Ritchey torque hex key on the interweb. It is only for 4mm slots and only measures 5nm of torque. My Ritchey stem and bars ( WCS alloy ) are 4mm and require 5nm tightening so that`s fine BUT I have subsequently learned ( after ordering the gizmo .. might cancel the order ) that my 4mm seatpost clamp only requires 2.8 - 3.9 nm. The bike is a Scott Addict and that torque seems to me to be very low indeed. Question - can cycle torque wrenches be set as low as that ? I tawt they usually started at 5nm. I`ve never bothered with a torque wrench/hex key before but given how easy it perhaps is to write-off a frame with a careless twist I am now very curious. PS Don`t think I`ll cancel order after all ... I`ll at least be better informed of what 5nm of force is in practice.
Torque Talk
- Thread starter jimbut
- Start date
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smokeysmoo
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bolton, not very far from Nob End
I use THIS one. It does from 2-24 Nm. I found it very critical when I had carbon bikes as I'm a bit of a caveman with tools and have very little mechanical sympathy 
I even use it now that I only have alu and steel bikes as I was surprised at how relatively low some of the forces where when I first used it, so rather than go back to being Captain Caveman and I just use the right tool for the job
PS. Although my one is Giant branded, others on here have the same one and it's not branded, (Giant have clearly just licensed someone else's tool). So you might even pick this sort up cheaper than my link. I got it as it as it was the only one my LBS had, (paid more than the above link!), and I had some money burning a hole in my pocket a the time
I even use it now that I only have alu and steel bikes as I was surprised at how relatively low some of the forces where when I first used it, so rather than go back to being Captain Caveman and I just use the right tool for the job
PS. Although my one is Giant branded, others on here have the same one and it's not branded, (Giant have clearly just licensed someone else's tool). So you might even pick this sort up cheaper than my link. I got it as it as it was the only one my LBS had, (paid more than the above link!), and I had some money burning a hole in my pocket a the time
smokeysmoo
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bolton, not very far from Nob End
Spot on. Just dial in the setting you want, (by twisting the base), tighten to the click, wind the tension out of the wrench again, (ie: back to zero - I was advised to do this by a technician at work), and job's a good 'un
Rob3rt
Man or Moose!
- Location
- Manchester
Get a proper torque wrench, I have an Ice Toolz one, starts at 5Nm, but that does for my bikes and components.
Also word from the rumour mill, that ritchey thing, soak the bit end(only this end, not the whole thing) in some hot water and the glue holding the bit in softens and allows you to remove it and clean it and the drive socket out so you can use 1/4" drive bits of different sizes in it. Dont know how true this is though.
Also word from the rumour mill, that ritchey thing, soak the bit end(only this end, not the whole thing) in some hot water and the glue holding the bit in softens and allows you to remove it and clean it and the drive socket out so you can use 1/4" drive bits of different sizes in it. Dont know how true this is though.
