Torque for a freewheel cassette

[marinyork]

I have an 8 inch adjustable spanner to try and dislodge the cogs on the back. It just isn't anywhere near enough. What size spanners etc do other people use?

 

[Crackle]

That should do it. The tool I have is about that size. It just gives suddenly. Just need to get yourself in a good position, lots of counter pressure on the chain whip and give it a good heave but be prepared for it to just give suddenly as I said.

 

[dodgy]

Wear gardening gloves if it's really stuck on tight, if the chain whip gives way or you slip somehow it could be painful on your hands.

 

[Crackle]

Wear gardening gloves if it's really stuck on tight, if the chain whip gives way or you slip somehow it could be painful on your hands.

sound advice.

Has your remover got flats and a socket? A socket would be better and then you can extend it with something over the bar, old pipe or similiar.

 

[marinyork]

Chain whip? Both my cycling book and the youtube video I watched don't use that at all. Tried the spanner with gloves + towel for padding to give it as much as I've got and it still won't budge.

As for socket, it's about 26mm (probable made to an inch) for a shimano hyperglide, I just can't find anywhere that sells one that will fit over it.

 

[Crackle]

Is it Shimano? Show us the link to this vid then.

Park tools

 

[marinyork]

Thanks guys.


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTfs3gEhgKo


It does both freewheel and not. Skip the first minute of the vid at least hehe. It's about 2 mins in, my tool is exactly thus and he uses a gigantic adjustable spanner.

It's an FR-1.

 

[Crackle]

3.23 is the cassette removal if yours is a freewheel you may well need a bigger spanner as they can be a bugger to get off. See Sheldon for a better view of the two types.

Edit: FR-1, so deffo a freewheel then. Yes, you'll need a bigger tool because you'll have tightened it up with your leg power through the chain. Surprised it's a freewheel though.

 

[marinyork]

Ah thanks crackle. I did look up Sheldon already but was still confused that I used his additional photos to point out what the mechanism looked like. The shop said it was hyperglide. So I'll need something like 12 inch spanner and a chainwhip?

 

[andrew_s]

If it's a cassette, you need a chainwhip to hold the cassette still as you use the remover to undo the lockring. Otherwise it just spins back on the freewheel ratchet.

If it's a freewheel, the remover won't move at all without the application of large amounts of force. Last time I took one off I had to stand on the end of a 12-14" ring spanner, so an 8" adjustable is unlikely to be adequate.
The easiest way is to clamp the remover in a solid bench vice and turn the wheel rim, making sure to turn it the correct way.

Hyperglide is a description of the sprockets, and is in use on both freewheels and cassettes.

 

[Crackle]

As per Andrew_s. If the the FR-1 fits and doesnt move when you lever it, it must be a freewheel.

 

[marinyork]

Hmmm, so a 12 inch spanner is needed. Any idea where I buy one of these babies? Saw the FRW-1 on ebay but it's about £40.

LBS told me specifically to use a bench vice when I asked him for a spanner. I just don't have one .

 

[Crackle]

Personally I'd just take the wheel into my LBS. It'll take them a moment or two to get it off.

 

[marinyork]

Personally I'd just take the wheel into my LBS. It'll take them a moment or two to get it off.

I know but I can't keep on doing that with the number of spokes I break .

 

[Crackle]

I know but I can't keep on doing that with the number of spokes I break .

Ah! I understand the signature now You're breaking lots then. Hmmm, sounds like new wheel/re-build/re-tune time. Had a fairly cheap rear wheel start doing that to me. After about five breakages, two on tour and all on the freewheel side, I ditched it.