Tool advice/recommendations

[Mezza86]

I see alot of parts on bikes have torque settings like headsets, Bottom Brackets, Cassettes and all the little bits in between. So ive been thinking of investing in a torque wrench set and a mini set for those smaller jobs, to make sure things are done properly.. as im all about the whole 'Do it right or dont bother at all' mindset.
So that being said, what are people using these days or which would you recommend?

 

[Jenkins]

Something like this one from Wiggle. It's also available from other places under different brand names such as this one at Planet X.

Keep an eye out for special offers as I've seen it for around £25 delivered in the recent past.

 

[Blue Hills]

Something like this one from Wiggle. It's also available from other places under different brand names such as this one at Planet X.

Keep an eye out for special offers as I've seen it for around £25 delivered in the recent past.

interesting.
are you saying planetx are telling a little yorkshire porky?
their write up says:
"Made exclusively for us "

 

[C R]

Something like this one from Wiggle. It's also available from other places under different brand names such as this one at Planet X.

Keep an eye out for special offers as I've seen it for around £25 delivered in the recent past.

I got the wiggle one some time ago, seems well made. Of course, the issue with these tools is whether they click at the torque they say they click, ie, are they properly calibrated when you buy them, and do they stay in calibration.

I am now looking for one to cover the 40 Nm range, any suggestions?

 

[C R]

interesting.
are you saying planetx are telling a little yorkshire porky?
their write up says:
"Made exclusively for us "

Poetic license?

 

[Blue Hills]

Poetic license?

to be added to planetx's poetic maths.
(good as they are)

 

[rogerzilla]

A torque wrench isn't a panacea. The clamping force provided by a bolt for a given torque depends very much on the condition of the threads. Generally, the threads should be clean, greased and have been fitted and removed at least once to remove any burrs or rough spots. If you use a torque wrench on a new bolt with dry threads, or on a dirty gritty bolt, the part may slip in use.

Most bike torque wrenches won't have the range to cover things like quill stem expanders or square taper crank bolts. You need a bigger one for those parts.

 

[Mezza86]

Something like this one from Wiggle. It's also available from other places under different brand names such as this one at Planet X.

Keep an eye out for special offers as I've seen it for around £25 delivered in the recent past.

I was looking at that one amongst others and it seems like an ideal buy. There's also a halfords Bikehut one for £40 and a lifetime guarantee but not sure if it'll be any good. Just want to be able to do things properly but as rogerzilla has pointed out, I may have to have new bolts n everything for the settings to work correctly.

 

[Mezza86]

A torque wrench isn't a panacea. The clamping force provided by a bolt for a given torque depends very much on the condition of the threads. Generally, the threads should be clean, greased and have been fitted and removed at least once to remove any burrs or rough spots. If you use a torque wrench on a new bolt with dry threads, or on a dirty gritty bolt, the part may slip in use.

Most bike torque wrenches won't have the range to cover things like quill stem expanders or square taper crank bolts. You need a bigger one for those parts.

Ye thats something I didnt really think of to be honest, the wrench would click sooner if the bolt is dirty or anything. So id probably have to renew alot of them to get the correct setting. I have also noticed alot of wrenches only go up to like 25NM but some major components seem to need upto 40 which doesnt make sense to make the majority to only reach 25.

 

[rogerzilla]

I should point out that automotive torque wrench practice, particularly when building up engines, is often for fasteners to be clean and unlubricated. However, bicycle threads would never be assembled dry as they are not going to live their lives in an oil bath, sealed away from the outside world!

Park Tool lists torque recommendations (irritatingly, in inch-pounds with a conversion table to Nm) for various components. A few of them seem far too high - 30Nm for a saddle rail clamp bolt is way beyond "mullered" for a steel M8 fine bolt into an alloy thread.

 

[C R]

I should point out that automotive torque wrench practice, particularly when building up engines, is often for fasteners to be clean and unlubricated. However, bicycle threads would never be assembled dry as they are not going to live their lives in an oil bath, sealed away from the outside world!

Park Tool lists torque recommendations (irritatingly, in inch-pounds with a conversion table to Nm) for various components. A few of them seem far too high - 30Nm for a saddle rail clamp bolt is way beyond "mullered" for a steel M8 fine bolt into an alloy thread.

30Nm!!!!!? My decathlon seat post is marked 12-14, which seems plenty enough.

 

[rogerzilla]

I did mine as tight as I felt appropriate with an allen key, then checked it with a torque wrench. As you say, about 12Nm.

The Park quoted range is 20-40Nm, taking the nearest equivalents from the conversion chart. Stripped threads ahoy.

 

[ChrisEyles]

If I was working with carbon fibre parts, I'd be very tempted by a torque wrench. For steel/alloy going by feel is sufficient IMHO.

BBs and crank bolts get done up "good'n'tight", everything else ease up when you can feel the "elasticity" in the threads fully taken up.

40Nm is the same as lifting up 40kg on the end of a 10cm tool, which can help to calibrate your efforts.

Personally I'd rather rely on feel than a torque wrench - as I understand the calibration is generally quite poor unless you spend a lot of money on one, so won't necessarily be any better, even though you get that satisfying "click".

 

[C R]

If I was working with carbon fibre parts, I'd be very tempted by a torque wrench. For steel/alloy going by feel is sufficient IMHO.

BBs and crank bolts get done up "good'n'tight", everything else ease up when you can feel the "elasticity" in the threads fully taken up.

40Nm is the same as lifting up 40kg on the end of a 10cm tool, which can help to calibrate your efforts.

Personally I'd rather rely on feel than a torque wrench - as I understand the calibration is generally quite poor unless you spend a lot of money on one, so won't necessarily be any better, even though you get that satisfying "click".

It would be fairly easy to strip an alloy thread if you are a bit hamfisted, I know I can be. The click gives a bit of reassurance, but as you say, it is only as good as the calibration.

 

[Nick Saddlesore]

To add to @ChrisEyles , I was taught that if you use a standard Allen key or the correct size spanner, as tight as an average person can get will be about right. If you're dealing with a carbon frame or components get a decent torque wrench e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/teng-tools-torque-wrench-1-4-x-11/44700. Bargain torque wrenches aren't.