dhd.evans1
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Monifieth, Scotland
Hi folks.
I bought a set of Wheelsmith 38T Carbo Road wheels from a friend. There was a 10spd Ultegra cassette on them. I am running an 11spd 105 setup so used the tools at my work (i work in the office of a local bike shop) to get the 10spd off and replaced with a 11spd.
After taking the 10spd cassette off I discovered at that the cassette body is too short to house an 11spd cassette by 0.3mm. Thankfully the hub itself has a code on it and it's a Novatec F482SB. I purchased a Novatec B2 cassette body which puports to house 11spd cassettes.
I remove and replace the cassette body with the 0.3mm longer model, it slides in no bother, the cassette takes a little more convincing going on and the lockring takes a bit of time to catch and lock up.
Hunky dory so far, but I am about to be right out of my mechanicing depth.
I put the locknut back on and tighten both sides with allen keys.
The axle is very tight. Like, near enough solid to my touch. I loosen the locknut a bit and everything is wobbly. I take it to head mechanic that I work with who says "the axle might be a little short but should be OK" and checks the movement of the axle and tightens it again. He gets another mechanic to verify it's fine.
It still feels tight to me but hey, i'm a desk jockey not a mechanic. I will add that these guys are MTBers and have zero interest in road bikes. To each their own.
Brought the wheel home to set on my bike (2016 B'Twin Ultra 700 AF). It's up in the stand, i take my Mavic Askium commuters off and put the rear wheel in. Immediately something feels wrong.
I've set the chain into the highest gear for ease of getting the wheel off so i expect some resistance when trying to push the cranks whilst in the stand, but this is locked near solid. It moves, but it's not without a huge amount of resistance from the rear wheel. I ratchet the chain down to low gear and it's freer but still 'sticky' feeling.
I then stop pushing the cranks and lo and behold the back wheel stops too.
...
I push the cranks backwards.
...
The bloody wheel goes backwards.
...
...
I've turned my road machine into a fixie and I can't work out what the hell is wrong with it. I did a bike mechanicing course late last year and we fannied around with cones and hubs and nonsense, but this was on older model bikes. Supermarket special type bikes.
I have no idea how to sort my road machine and given i paid a pretty penny for these wheels I don't want to absolutely fark it by just going with "Ach, it'll be fine" and riding them into the ground.
Can you guys help diagnose the problem? I can take it to another LBS which is roadie oriented and will hopefully be able to sort it but to save two embarrassing trips in two weeks to them i'd love to solve this one myself...
I bought a set of Wheelsmith 38T Carbo Road wheels from a friend. There was a 10spd Ultegra cassette on them. I am running an 11spd 105 setup so used the tools at my work (i work in the office of a local bike shop) to get the 10spd off and replaced with a 11spd.
After taking the 10spd cassette off I discovered at that the cassette body is too short to house an 11spd cassette by 0.3mm. Thankfully the hub itself has a code on it and it's a Novatec F482SB. I purchased a Novatec B2 cassette body which puports to house 11spd cassettes.
I remove and replace the cassette body with the 0.3mm longer model, it slides in no bother, the cassette takes a little more convincing going on and the lockring takes a bit of time to catch and lock up.
Hunky dory so far, but I am about to be right out of my mechanicing depth.
I put the locknut back on and tighten both sides with allen keys.
The axle is very tight. Like, near enough solid to my touch. I loosen the locknut a bit and everything is wobbly. I take it to head mechanic that I work with who says "the axle might be a little short but should be OK" and checks the movement of the axle and tightens it again. He gets another mechanic to verify it's fine.
It still feels tight to me but hey, i'm a desk jockey not a mechanic. I will add that these guys are MTBers and have zero interest in road bikes. To each their own.
Brought the wheel home to set on my bike (2016 B'Twin Ultra 700 AF). It's up in the stand, i take my Mavic Askium commuters off and put the rear wheel in. Immediately something feels wrong.
I've set the chain into the highest gear for ease of getting the wheel off so i expect some resistance when trying to push the cranks whilst in the stand, but this is locked near solid. It moves, but it's not without a huge amount of resistance from the rear wheel. I ratchet the chain down to low gear and it's freer but still 'sticky' feeling.
I then stop pushing the cranks and lo and behold the back wheel stops too.
...
I push the cranks backwards.
...
The bloody wheel goes backwards.
...
...
I've turned my road machine into a fixie and I can't work out what the hell is wrong with it. I did a bike mechanicing course late last year and we fannied around with cones and hubs and nonsense, but this was on older model bikes. Supermarket special type bikes.
I have no idea how to sort my road machine and given i paid a pretty penny for these wheels I don't want to absolutely fark it by just going with "Ach, it'll be fine" and riding them into the ground.
Can you guys help diagnose the problem? I can take it to another LBS which is roadie oriented and will hopefully be able to sort it but to save two embarrassing trips in two weeks to them i'd love to solve this one myself...
